curtisa

I seem to recall you asked a similar question about PhotoBooth some time ago? I assume your camera is whatever you've got built in to your computer and you're using PhotoBooth to record the video in the absence of a separate camera setup. Googling PhotoBooth seems to turn up frequent complaints that the audio and video end up out of sync, and the 'fix' is to pretty much do what's described here. Ie, use some kind of clapper board or substitute to aid in re-aligning the audio and video after the fact. If having to perform this re-alignment of the sound and footage is more effort than it's worth, then your only alternative is to find another method of recording the video in the first place - either a different app if you're using a built-in camera (there must be loads out there?) or using a dedicated camera and transferring the recorded audio+video clip over later on. I would imagine most people just use their phones, or a dedicated camera with an on-board or external mike to record videos with. If the footage and audio doesn't sync right on those devices they'd be...well...broken What about ditching the video altogether and just recording sound? You only need to record your voice at the start of each soundclip to identify what is being recorded. You can even give the file name something descriptive to aid its cataloging later on if need be, eg "Gibson ES335 Neck PU Clean Princeton 17-12-2019.mp3".

Well, I tried our old Asus tablet on the forums. It does work OK...eventually. It starts off extremely sluggish but gradually it comes through with the goods and I can scroll through picture-heavy threads. It's a little bit clunky and jumpy, but it stumbles through OK. Safari browser doesn't display the formatting on the forum pages quite right, but Chrome does. Hardly a conclusive test, as my whole tablet is slow anyway, but in the absence of other reports of poor performance it does seem to be something particular with the way our forum interacts with your particular tablet. Then again, maybe it's an Asus/Android thing - we both have Asus tablets, both suddenly started sucking at doing internets. Coincidence?

Welcome back to the fold, Carl. I should probably take a leaf from your book and consider documenting some of my goings-on too

Sorry to hear that, Andy. Any chance your browser app itself (rather than the whole tablet OS) has done an update in the background and reverted to the most current version, thereby reintroducing the problem again? The fact that it was working for a bit and then started misbehaving again suggests that something changed in the meantime. I'll try busting out my Asus tablet and see if the old girl will work long enough to browse through the forums.

I was actually going to suggest that if you wanted a hard recess rather than a PRS-style soft 'cup', a forstner bit would be exactly what you want. I'd be more concerned about using a router bit in a drill press, as the cutting geometry isn't really suited for the relatively low-RPM that a drill press can produce.

Agile guitars have the Interceptor Pro range - 7 string, Floyd Rose, neck-through - for less than $600US. What about looking at the secondhand market for a Schecter C7 or ESP Horizon 7FR? The risk with buying a cheap guitar and transplanting decent quality hardware across is that you chance either ending up with a guitar that still isn't a particularly good instrument despite having expensive hardware installed, or (more likely) a second guitar where the donor hardware isn't compatible. Not all Floyd Rose bridges are created equally, and there's no guarantee the double-locking bridge in the Dean will be a drop-in replacement for some no-name Chinese clone. The post spacing could be different, the routing in the body could have different dimensions etc. The use of the name 'Floyd Rose' doesn't automatically imply a standard component across different manufacturers.

What kind of bit are you going to use?

Only if it stops you putting a pickup in the neck position or the look of it bothers you You're putting together a guitar using dissimilar prefab components, so there's a risk that what you're building is not going to just 'work'. The biggest issue I see is that the necks you're using may not be matched to the scale length used when the body was made. The original bridge will have been placed at the scale length of whatever neck used to be fitted to the body. There's no guarantee that your new necks will match that same measurement. You can check to see if there's a close match. Take one of your necks and measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret. Double this measurement. This new value is how far the nut of the neck must be positioned away from the bridge on the body in order for you to have any chance of the guitar intonating correctly. More specifically, it's the length of the string between the leading edge of the nut and the point where the string leaves the saddle on the bridge (minus any adjustments made at the saddle to compensate for intonation corrections). If you want to keep the bridge where it was originally on the body then you must move the neck to maintain this 2x-nut-to-12th-fret distance; the scale length. The relative position of the neck in the pocket will be limited by this measurement. If the neck needs to move closer to the bridge to maintain the overall scale length, and there's no room in the pocket to move backwards then you're going to have to deepen the pocket to make it fit (and consequently make that pickup overhang problem worse). If the neck needs to be positioned further away from the bridge to maintain the scale length then you'll need to make sure there's enough meat in the neck pocket to support the neck (and possibly deal with an exacerbated gap at the bottom of the pocket if the fretboard overhang starts to expose it). If you want to position the neck in the pocket such that it's exactly where you want it irrespective of where the bridge currently sits, and the resulting scale length imposed by the neck means the bridge is now in the wrong spot, your only recourse is to reposition the bridge to a new location governed by the scale length of the neck. You may have no issues whatsoever and everything just falls into place, but you'll still need to do a bit of homework first to find out if there is any work required in order to pull it off. I wouldn't expect to drop a Ford engine in a Honda Civic without at least modifying the engine mounts

The forums use a fair bit of CSS and Java scripting at the back end of things, so it's entirely possible there's something not playing right between us and your particular variant of the Asus tablet. For example, If I try viewing the forums using my new Windows 10 laptop issued by my employer on any network through any browser I simply cannot use the forum at all, as all the CSS formatting gets destroyed by something going on on that particular computer. All I'm left with is a white page with all the images missing and nothing but text and unformatted hyperlinks. It's like viewing the internet circa 1995. Any other computer or device I've tried doesn't have this issue, so I'm assuming it has something to do with the IT security policies that gets applied to these new machines. Weird shite happens sometimes... ...or maybe it's just my boss's way of telling me to get back to work

I assume your Asus is running some version of the Android OS. Things you can try at your end for now: Use a different browser. On my old Samsung S3 smartphone ProjectGuitar wouldn't display properly using the default Safari browser. Using Chrome everything worked correctly, even if the poor old phone didn't have the horsepower to run Chrome very well. Try your tablet on a different WiFi network, see if things change. Try another tablet/smartphone/laptop/Commodore 64 on your current WiFi network and see if the issue persists. At the bottom of each page on the forum you can switch between different display themes (not sure if this is visible to regular users, might be an admin-only thing). Try one of the earlier themes and see if things start behaving themselves: Is the issue solely confined to ProjectGuitar, or are other graphics-heavy websites also affected? Try other forums where you know a lot of people post pictures or websites which use lots of images (car companies are a good place to start). Most browsers on mobile devices have an option to request the desktop version of a website in their settings. Try switching between the two to see if it makes a difference. Are other users of your particular Asus tablet raising similar faults elsewhere on the net? Maybe try doing a Google search for the model number and see if there is a group of complaints about poor internet performance in the last 6 months that might point towards a software update issue or a general failing of the product. FWIW I haven't seen any issues here using a Samsung Galaxy S8 (mobile data and several different WiFI networks), a Windows 10 laptop on my home network, a Windows 7 laptop at the office or via mobile hotspot, and a Linux desktop. I will, however, qualify that statement by adding that I do have an Asus tablet that really struggles with anything more than email, despite being a real gun when I bought it some time ago. One day it just decided that it wanted a bit of a lie down and it hasn't been the same since. Get in touch if things still aren't working for you and we'll see if there's more that can be done. If anyone else is finding similar issues please let us know via the Site Feedback and Issue Reporting Area. If it's only a couple of users that are affected it suggests that perhaps there's something at their end, but if it's a whole group of people it might be a wider issue at ours. If the error reports are kept in one location on the forum it will be easier for us to track and gauge.

Yeah, I'm like that too. I never get a good suntan, I just burn... ...Oh, you mean the guitar?

Done Although, it did add a certain charm to the proceedings. Don't they say that the definition of madness is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result each time?

It will be because the S10 natively takes pictures in the HEIC format, which is incompatible with the forum software. You can either change your phone settings to disable HEIC image saves and upload directly to the forum, or copy the image from Dropbox once you've uploaded it and paste it into your post. Dropbox seems to automatically covert the image to a JPG so that the rest of the world can view it when they visit the link, but doesn't appear to provide you with a link to embed it into a post, so you have to do it manually: Tadaaa:

I'd suggest that climb cutting with such a large bit hanging over the edge of a board is possibly one of the most dangerous things you could do with a handheld router. Bits larger than 1.5" in diameter are generally not recommended for handheld router use. They're just too large to be safely managed at the same RPMs that smaller diameter bits operate at. A 1" roundover bit is likely to be more than 2.5" in diameter once you add the bearing and the extra bit of overcut that the upper curvature of the bit is likely to have. Big bits like that should always be used in table routers or industrial shapers. Even then it's not something I'd personally want to do without some form of mechanical feed/guide system to keep my hands well away from such a large cutter while passing it through. Climb cutting makes it worse as the bit wants to walk along the rotational direction as it moves along the surface of the timber. The chances of the router wanting to skate off in your hands become much higher, even moreso with such a large diameter bit.

No probs . TBH I can't think of too many situations where you'd need to print the neck as a 1:1 template. Headstock, yes. But unless the neck does something odd, like the fretboard only goes partway up the neck under the low E string and gets cut short, there's no reason you'd need anything other than two straight lines to represent the sides of the neck, and a couple of perpendicular lines to indicate the nut and last fret. Basing the neck build entirely off the fretboard even negates the need to print it in the first place.

You could always download the evaluation version of BigPrint and try it for yourself Bearing in mind the printer scaling compensation in that software will only work if your images are routinely coming out with a consistent error in the horizontal or vertical. Any distortions that are being introduced that result in things like straight lines appearing curved, distortions at the edges of the print, or scaling errors that are different from print to print will be beyond what any generic compensation software can do. What about if you change your printing strategy so that the critical stuff (pickups, bridge placement and centreline) all goes on one sheet of paper, and the remainder of the design (body outline, controls etc) gets printed on sheets that surround the central sheet of paper? A 16th of an inch error at the body edge is perfectly acceptable and probably invisible to the naked eye after cutting, shaping and sanding, whereas the same error through the centreline can result in the strings running off the edge of the fretboard.

I used the 57/66 combo on a fan fret build a few years ago. They were a pleasant surprise in deviating from the hyper-clean, typical EMG81 sound that they became known (and to some, loathed) for in the mid 80s. They are clean, but they do have that vintage lower-mid push of a passive humbucker. Don't expect true PAF tones, but do expect something a little more wholesome than your typical active pickup. They should be a good pairing for a modern prog metal axe. Both Chris Letchford and Devin Townsend demo them on the EMG TV Youtube channel, and you'd be hard pressed to consider their sounds lacklustre for the styles of music they do.

Welcome (back). Clever save on the router mishap, nicely executed. Personally I'm not a fan of the visible stringers that pass through the front of the headstock, so if it were me I'd either paint it an opaque colour on the front or cover it with a fancy veneer with your choice of finish. But that's just me..

Well, you better get yer skates on, 'cause I've just opened the poll. And apologies to @verhoevenc - I couldn't find a name on your entry post, so I've titled it "Mustaguar". Rules is rules...

You can't. It's an unfortunate limitation due to GFS's decision to pre-wire the junction of the two humbucker coils and only provide you with one wire. You could wire the neck humbucker the same as the bridge, but you'd lose any humbucking ability when you have the two single coils in series or parallel. The combinations where both pickups are active might sound a bit different too. Basically it will "work", but it won't sound as originally intended.

My apologies. I've given you a bum steer and mixed up SD red and green wires. The correct SD wiring translation should be: SD North Start (Black) = GFS Hot (Red) SD North Finish (White) + SD South Finish (Red) = GFS Coil Tap (White) SD South Start (Green) = GFS Ground (Black) So you should be good to go with your GFS pickup substitution. SD red + white is notionally equivalent to GFS white. Edit: the above is only true for the bridge pickup in the diagram you've posted. The series/parallel option on the neck pickup is impossible using the GFS.

Seymour Duncan (SD) -> GFS: SD North Start (Black) = GFS Hot (Red) SD North Finish (White) + SD South Start (Green) = GFS Coil Tap (White) SD South Finish (Red) = GFS Ground (Black) The GFS pickup you have sounds like three-conductor wiring, instead of the four-conductor that the SD uses. With three conductor wiring the junction between the two coils of the humbucker (North Finish/South Start) is hardwired together inside the pickup and brought out as a single wire. This is done for some cost savings on GFS's part, and to simplify the wiring for the end users who will most likely just want to implement a coil tap (hence GFS's terminology for their White wire). The drawback is that if you have any super fancy wiring that does oddball things with each coil that requires diddling around with each of the four individual terminations on the humbucker, you'll be limited in what you can achieve. For this reason the equivalent wiring on the SD pickup for item 2, above, is to join both White and Green together. This common connection point is the equivalent of the single White wire on the GFS pickup. Essentially every time you see both Green and White joined together on an SD wiring diagram, substitute your single GFS White. If, however your SD wiring diagram shows Green and White going in different directions and through something like a switch, you might be out of luck. The GFS Shield Bare also goes to ground. There'll be one on the Seymour Duncan pickups as well, even if it's not explicitly described in their literature. Odd that GFS couldn't provide this information. Seems like that should've been easy for them to look up...

The ability to edit your own post doesn't become available to you until you've achieved a certain number of posts (off the top of my head, maybe 10?). Send me a PM and I'll get things fixed up for you. You should be able to add as many pictures to a single post as you like. Just keep on attaching the pictures in the 'reply' box and they appear as a list of thumbnails which you can insert into your post: You can even just copy/paste (CTRL-C/CTRL-V) the image directly into the text window of your reply and the forum will automagically insert the picture where your cursor is and handle all the attaching for you.

Series is the 'standard' humbucker wiring scheme. Parallel will have lower output and a thinner sound. That depends on what sounds you're after; entirely a matter of personal preference. What kind of wiring are you trying to achieve here? Did the humbucker come with some kind of colour code diagram that explained how to wire it up? Were the red/white and green/braid wires already joined together, or did you do this yourself?

Might be of use for you, even though it's written for their own particular cutters: https://www.precisebits.com/materials/ivory_shell/natural_shell.htm