Desopolis

it sounds like your talking about somthing like a burst, or is it fading from one side to the other?

if its a burst, theres TONNNNSSS of tutorials on differnt methods, mainly a dye >seal>airbrush>clear method.

now Im a newb to all this, but compared to a sprayed poly finish how does the oil feel?

Is it true that it needs to be reapplied every so often?

ive read it has a smoother feel then regular spray..

im at work so I dont have a pic, but Id say 1/8th or so, before radiusing.

what should I fill it with? should I fill the whole slot or just the edges?

Ill take a pic when I get home.

heres a decent thread..

my post is at the bottom...

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...22681&st=15

I have cad files i made for a much nicer(and more complex) one using drawer sliders..

have to remember the blade is only 4" and my regular one is 10" so that has to be a factor in yor design..

So while going all out in getting my fret slotting jig, and corisponding fretboard holder, thingamabob.. all done I kinda just started slotting with no regards to depths.

I know not to cut through the board obviously, and I also know that the board needs to have enough depth through the radius.

BUT the nut depth is pretty deep as well as the slot depth... enough that if I fretted it now there would be a gap from the end of the tang to the bottom of the slot.

Should I try and correct it? Perhapse by sanding the board down to a set level? or would it be ok with a bit of a gap?

how deep should the nut slot be?

I just bought a graphtech tusq and a graphite nut for the two guitars im building and I assume they are set at some standard depth.

DAMN YOU QUICK SLOTTING ACTION!

massacre ebony?

ha! I think its so weird you guys say at university..

I definatly like the first one posted, the second one looks a bit crazy.

so far my favorite was a porter cable.

slow start, easy replacement, good plung action and lock, had a trigger lock, loose depth guage and tons of other features..

I regularly use a tool shop el cheapo, the depth guage is threaded, so its a pain in the ass.. not to mention it kinda sucks in the relm of correctness.

the depth stops are little screws on a disc, that isnt flush, so when you hit them, it isnt the same every time..

but Ive learned to overcome and gotten it to work pretty well..

it has a locking trigger as well though..

can you explain what you did to fix your problem?

try taking a pic alittle farther back, that way we can see it in more detail.

and to apease the image rules, just make it a link instead of putting it into the thread.

my strat also has a layer of somthing between the wood and paint layers. mines almost a dark tan in color, I saw it after "someone" took a quarter sized chip out of the bottom. I want to drop fill it with somthing, but I might just dab CA in there so it doesnt split.

anyway, mines probobly(if not moreso) as thick as yours...

no no, im sorry. I ment trolling as more of lurking.

someone who reads alot, then out of nowhere adds to a thread

my el-cheapo came with replacement brushes..

isnt black and decker owned by the same people as porter cable?

I basicly went to guitar center and played a variety of differnt types of guitars with differnt types of wood.

then I went online and googled Tonewoods.

a BC rich V I have was made of 4 differetn pieces of the same wood, the neck, 3 lams of mahagony.

unless it says one piece, I assume its a few different ones..

BTW the Author of that book has been trolling arround this site for a while, kinda freaks me out actually.

and I take whatever Rich says as fact....

I also dont think it matters that much, as long as it has the curves and the edges it will fit fine.

hmm. think I could take a grover apart?? haha..

well im going to try it on this first one, the rest Ill just buy two sets, as I forsee myself building a few more with a 4X2

go 4+2 its all the rage

I often wonder why people cant use the 6 inline, it would just be ofset on the back right?

I have a set of grover locking, and from what I can tell, it doesnt matter how they are mounted, they lock, and tune both ways.

im going 4x2, so Ill try it.

setch- I actually didnt mean the mods, most mods just change the thread to suite.

its the 6 users that come into a thread, and ignore the topic, just the fact that he posted big pics. if it were that much of a bother they could just PM him.

I respect the work and effort all the mods here put forth, and in most cases the quality of work from a mod far shadows that of what I do.

diezel-

can you post a pic of the dyed binding a bit better? it looks to me like it doesnt match, but that may just be the pictures.

http://www.seymourduncan.com

play with them, you can listen to them as well.

I use a Hot rail, vintage single coil, and a duckbucker in my strat..

the hot rail is F'n awesome, and oddly enough the ducks got alot of gain..

a nice 59 or JB would suit your needs, but honestly Id go on there and listen to samples.

why stains?

why not a laq or poly finish?

you want to see the wood right? just dye the finishes, and between each color, spray a clear coat. let it cure then do the next color(and tape the edges)

I dont see a way to avoid making a fuzzy line with stain..

I could be wrong, but thats what I would do.

I dont know where you are, but Im buying the caul from stew mac, and using a harbor freight press ($20)..

I think it may work with a drill press too.

+1

I almost started going off untill I saw it was two pages.

Im glad you decided everything you did..

im curious to see how the stained maple will come out.. looks alittle light right now..

and before the Nazis come in here, change the [ img ] tag to [ url ]...

I have a fast connection and a huge resolution, so I dont mind, but the 56k builders need love too.

LMAO!!

I only play with grounded amps, but I definatly will be more carefull.

i didnt think the rule applied to in progress and tutorial pages..

100% dung is bad..

I think Id accept arround 20% though..

sound advice, time to start playing with paint!