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oz tradie

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Everything posted by oz tradie

  1. oz tradie
    It all depends on what you're asking about. If it's to do with how its possible to rout a channel on a carvetop, then this is a good starting point. It's all pretty self explanatory from herein. Stewmac binding guide
  2. oz tradie
    I recessed a set of the flanged style ferrules yesterday. Personally it'd drive me nuts having the flange poking out instead of rebated. But different strokes........... Cheers,Stu
  3. oz tradie
    An updated T.O.M. setup would be a godsend. Ferrule placements drilled , recessed and in perfect placement, sir . (I'm also a fan of that layout.) p.s. I gave a bit of room above the bridge. Ferrules get pushed back further, but I'd prefer that. cheers, Stu
  4. oz tradie
    I can't see any difficulty in this part at all. Pull out your favourite no.5 plane and do what it does best. This, I'm curious about also. i.e. body or neck gets the angle planed in. Q/Sawn timber preferred for a thru neck (IMO). Which end do you plane out to the neck angle? Leave the body section untouched and attack the neck area for your angle? Or vice versa? I'm not too sure which would be preferred. cheers, Stu
  5. oz tradie
    That's what I figured. But the question is still out there people. Why is it theoretically good/bad to build a string thru setup with strings wrapping down the back of the T.O.M. bridge ? Is it string break..........tuning stability problems .........Or will it increase sustain? cheers, Stu
  6. oz tradie
    I'm at the last stages of a carvetop build and finalizing my string ferrule placement. I've seen the odd guitar with the ferrules placed closer to the bridge to such an extent that the strings actually apply pressure to the back of the T.O.M. bridge behind the saddles. Is there any hard or fast rules regarding whether it is theoretically good/bad to have them grounding on the back of the bridge? Curiosity has me a'ponderin' I guess the same applies if using a stopbar setup also Any hard and fast method for this? cheers, Stu
  7. oz tradie
    I gave the 18" stew-mac C.F rods a red hot go. What the hey.........For me it's piece of mind
  8. oz tradie
    I figured some extra strength may be required with the hot rod style of truss rod as opposed to the typical martin style system The neck is lammed Q/sawn Blackwood with 0.5 mm dyed maple veneers. seems extremely stable so far Am I being too cautious about this one? Any real need for C.F. rods at all ?
  9. oz tradie
    The titebond polyurethane glue in a bottle stuff ?
  10. oz tradie
    Allrighty. thanks for that guys. I read on the stew-mac site that you can glue in with epoxies, woodglue or CA glue. Any particular method you guys use? I'm leaning towards epoxy, but it's always pays to learn from others..... cheers, Stu
  11. oz tradie
    I've searched and come up with oodles of data concerning the placement widthways (either side of the truss-rod) but nothing that I can find regarding the best length to route them in . Have an optic nerve at this. The same length as the truss rod ? longer....shorter? pic link cheers all, Stu
  12. oz tradie
    Just in case you haven't stumbled across this in your wanderings.......... asymmetric neck stuff
  13. oz tradie
    As a foot-note to my tutorial, I figured it's one thing to make a 2 foot radiussing block.............. and another thing to actually use it and show that it works as intended. The first photo is with the sanding jig I made for a more precise job in radiussing the fingerboard. Note the 2 foot long block with two batten screws as primitive handles. (temporary I might add.) The next image is of the radiussed fingerboard. It's lace sheoak and a real beauty I finally got around to using the long block , and find it easier to get good results than a smaller block. Now........time to do something about those darn screw/handles cheers, Stu
  14. oz tradie
    howdy fiona. I've been slightly distracted with my own build and haven't logged on as much. I'm building a carve-top electric with all aussie timbers. It's going great and I will post photos very soon. love the photos Brian, very nice work. cheers, Stu
  15. oz tradie
    the bar has good burgers That's reason alone. Gotta love a well made burger.
  16. oz tradie
    I go to bars, but it's not the picks I prefer to be picking up. But then again ,I'm not 14 y.o. No offence intended PunkRockerLuke I've still come accross the odd pick I bought in the mid-eighties They never really disappear, they just hide for awhile.
  17. oz tradie
    Hmmm.....Scenario #1 Cut up my credit cards to make a few picks.... or Scenario#2 Hold onto the cards, and continue using them in an errant fashion to allow me to purchase more guitar supplies from around the globe, thus making me poorer in monetary terms, yet happier in every other way. No contest. May have to start finger-pickin' though
  18. oz tradie
    I'm sure the novelty wears off pretty quickly. This is as close to icy conditions as I've ever experienced Bwrrrrrrrrr
  19. oz tradie
    That's a pretty callous initiation ritual if ever I've heard one. I've still got mine, thankfully. Having said that, I don't want to jinx myself tomorrow at the worksite, either. (touching wood vigorously) cheers, Stu
  20. oz tradie
    Hmmm........... He writes, wears glasses. Seems to possess superhuman strength. Is it a bird ? is it a plane ? You're not packing a cape and tights under your clobber are you?
  21. oz tradie
    Link is operational
  22. oz tradie
    Interesting you mention the fact that it'll kick in when you turn it on an angle. Could be either the brushes or a dodgy lead/plug end. Pull her open. You've got nothing to lose, and anyway, the brushes are usually fairly easy to get to.
  23. oz tradie
    It may be a good thing for the sales rep. guy that you don't have your old receipt. How much force is required to jamb said router into a position which could best be described as 'where the sun don't shine'? Slightly less force than that required by a local hospital nurse to retrieve said item from the sales reps rather shaded orifice. A death of a tool before it's due time is never easy to come to terms with.
  24. oz tradie
    The stew-mac plans of a 1959 flame top L.P. state the neck angle for that year to be 4.4 degrees. Just went out to the workshop and checked. cheers, Stu
  25. oz tradie
    thread link This thread above had some interesting ways of scarf jointing and ending up with a great result. Also a discussion about what Jon mentioned about a scarf joint angled jig. Read yer' heart out, Stu
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