RAI6

I didn't think that the open and 12th harmonic would be in tune because the intonation is how "long" the string is from bridge to neck, so that if 12th fret is not bang centre then you are out of tune up there... I thought that would apply to harmonics too??

The 12th fret harmonic is based on.......

The open string.

They will always be the same.

You check intonation comparing open and fretted notes.

Good luck!

A sharper, and a little closer, picture might help....

"Sure you could do it....have a look for threads on bolt on to set neck conversion, that should give you some ideas."

He said bolt-on to neck-through.

Not set-neck.

Doesn't look like it started out like a "great old guitar".

It looked like it was just about ready to be used as firewood...

What I don't get is, why do you go through all that work to restore an old guitar to its original glory, just to relic it when you're finished............?

Looks pretty good.

As for the color looking "dirty", and needing to be sanded back more...

Well, I think it's all a question of the color combination.

Black and yellow just don't mix.

A brown, or dark amber probably would have been a better choice as a base color.

Especially if going for the "tiger eye" look.

But overall it's looking like clean job.

Nice looking axe!

It sounds like this guy isn't designing this item to inlay, but for "painting" on the inlay:

"TREE OF LIFE INLAY INKING TEMPLATE  -   FOR 25.5" SCALE

THIS IS A CLEAR MYLAR PLASTIC TEMPLATE FOR INKING FINGERBOARD LAYOUT... VERY SIMPLE TO USE--ONLY 10 BUCKS!!!"

I should probably be able to use these for a material finish, just like Brian Calvert did in this tutorial: http://projectguitar.com/tut/mat.htm

Looks to me like this tutorial is more along the line of your project:

http://projectguitar.com/tut/holoflash.htm

I have a frankencaster with a refretted jaguar neck on it.... I got the body unrouted and had it routed for the Floyd 1 1/2" closer to the neck end.

The problem is that you cannot take a a body for a 24" scale, and put a 25 1/2" scale neck on it. Just moving the nut closer towards the bridge (closer to the 24" scale) doesn't change the position of the frets.

While the scale "generally" refers to the distance between the nut and the bridge, the fret position also has to match. You cannot have 24" between the nut and the bridge, if the distance between the nut and 12th fret isn't 12".

But you're not really taking any advice from anyone here, so all I can say is:

Good luck!

In theory, your idea is possible.

Yes, it's just like placing a capo on the first fret.

However, you're not changing the actual scale length, and there could be issues with the strings hitting the fretboard on the headstock side.

Why do you want to remove one fret and add a locking nut?

Once again, you're not changing the scale length.

If you plan to do this, and then place the bridge at "the new scale length", you'll be in for a surprise...

The fret positions are based on a certain scale length, and there is nothing you can do about that.

Mark out the centerline on the "donor guitar", measure the cavity's position in relation to that line. Draw out the centerline on your new body, and duplicate the position from the donor.

Problem solved.

Well, to make sure that the necks are the same scale, simply measure the distance between the nut and 12th fret. And if you take that x2, you have your actual scale length...

As for replacing a 22 fret neck with a 24, you have to make sure that it falls in the same place as the old neck. In other words, if the old neck joins the body at the 16th fret, your new neck needs to do the same. Of course, this raises the question "where do the 2 new frets go?".

If you have a neck pu, it may be in the way of the neck...

Does anyone have the dimensions (LxW at the top where it goes thru the pickguard) of a genuine Fender Telecaster neck pickup?

I've googled for this info and there doesn't seem to be any measurements which i find strange simply because I would have though that there were people out there making their own pickguards.

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Why do you need the measurements now?

Are you planning to make the pickguard before you have the pickups?

I'm sure some modification will be necessary to install an EMG, but probably not more than a Dremel with a small sanding drum can take care of...

I seem to recall Joe Perry (Aerosmith) having some sort of Guild axe with a bunch of holes cut out of the body. If my memory serves me right, it had a similiar cut-out in the headstock as the axe above...

Of course, I don't know if he had any additional support added.

Templates are your friends....

You can spend as much time as you want getting a template PERFECT, and then everything you route after that will be perfect as well.

Templates......?

...In graphic detail.

Still, time and effort is money...

If you're starting out with having a choice (easy vs. hard), why choose hard?

It's different if you have an existing guitar that you want to alter.

But you don't.

You have the option of buying something that is right, or something that is "wrong" (and that you have to fix). For me, it would be an easy choice...

You may want to take it easy with that planer on the birds eye.

I've heard that going to rough on that type of wood can actually pull all those "eyes" out of the wood. Not the look you're going for, probably...

By the time you put in all the labor and materials to refinish that guitar, you will probably have spent more money than just buying the right guitar in the first place...

Where can i find those things?

Give this a shot:

http://www.floydrose.com/shop.html

If making the body "is not really dirty work", and you say you don't have enough time for that, how is it that you have enough time to carve the top, which "is dirty work"....

From that pic at the top of the Bunker page, it looks like there isn't much wood left in the neck...

If the wood in the neck is so important, why remove most of it?

"Custom Rhoads Insipired Fyling V"....

Also, what's up with the last dot inlay???

http://www.mrtinkertrain.com/images/VGuitarWeb/pages/v4.htm

"chrome paint" is just silver. Not even close to real chrome where you can see your reflection in it. If there would be a "truth in labeling" crack-down, you wouldn't see any "chrome paint" for sale.

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Better look at ALSA and SIMS for chrome PAINT

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I believe he's referring to the "chrome" paint you'll find at your average auto parts place.

It isn't chrome at all, just "silver"...