RAI6

Nice design!

Looks like a Kubicki and Rickenbacker got together one night, had some fun, and 9 months later that showed up......

Cannot wait to see it finished!

"Just need to take out the LED before you scallop..."

Well, if you're going as a far as removing the fretboard to get the LED out, I would suggest you just make your own neck from scratch instead.

Seems like alot less of a headache...

Yeah, I know, smart ass.

But we still love you........

To find out what the scale length is on your guitar, just measure the distance between the nut (the fingerboard side, not the headstock side) and the 12th fret.

Multiply that by 2, and you have your scale length.

When intonated, the high E strings saddle should fall at the the scale length measurement. The other saddles fall where they may as you intonate.

To know how deep to set the neck, you should really draw everything out at full size to know FOR SURE.

Just draw a straight line that will represent the string, and then figure out how high above the frets it should be (action), then draw in the neck using the actual measurements, and also mark out the bridge height.

I think that's it.......

For your scale length (25.5), the high E should land at the approximately right spot.

As you can see on any guitar, none of the saddles are in the same spot...

But the high E seems to be the closest if you ever want to check scale lenght.

As for your guitar compared to the one in the tutorial.

Don't compare them. It does not matter.

All you need to do, is make sure that the open string (or 12th fret harmony) matches the fretted note on the 12th fret.

If the fretted note is too high, move the saddle back.

If it's too low, move the saddle in.

Easy as pie!

All the "child-size" guitars I've seen have used standard parts.

Seems the only thing different is the smaller body, and shorter scale....

Well, maybe it's not made for Floyd nut, but some generic crap?

Now, I don't know what type of locking nut would fit in a 3/8" slot.

Seems awfully narrow, doesn't it?

Bass? That slow old thing?

Slow?

I think Billy Sheehan might disagree with you.................

BTW. Since I'm aparently blind, could someone tell me what the NT7 neck costs?

Just so I get a general idea, if it's like $3, $30, $300 or $3000

If I remember correctly from this morning, the NT7 goes for $199.

And to all the Swedes out there:

Hallå!

What's the "order info" that you need?

It seems to work pretty standard.

Add to cart, proceed to checkout, fill in info, etc.

What is missing?

Unless you're outside of the U.S.

In that case, you order through your local Carvin distributor....

Have you tried the Green 3M tape?

Hmmm, I don't know....

Maybe try their website?

http://www.carvin.com/products/parts.php?CID=KBN

Hi guys, I wanted to know if you think it's easy to a newbie to start with a neck trough guitar... It eliminates the need of angle calculation and all that...

Not necessarily.

Neck angle depends on the bridge....

I think the most difficult part is out of the way now.

It was a real PITA getting the old finish off!

Looks great!

But if the guitar is going to be completely covered in fabric and paint, why did you remove the old finish all the way to the wood?

All you would really need to do is "scuff" up the paint, and prime it.......

What is "normal"?

It is a natural material, after all, and there are no guarantees that they will all look alike...

Besides, I think it would add character.

If people ask "what up with that color", you just tell them "hey, it's real bone".

The "oooh" and "aaah" factor goes up.............

Some folks even use small inserts/machine-screws for other places (cavity covers, etc.).

I had some Hamers (back in the day..... ) that had brass inserts for the cavity covers, and for the direct-mounted pu's.

That was just awesome! Such attention to detail!

Never had the necks off, so I don't know what they had done there.........

Is this THE actual file that you are going to use?

What program are you using?

If you're starting out from scratch in Photoshop, or something like that, I would recommend that you go for a much higher resolution.

Right now you're at about 37 dpi, but it's 4" tall, so there's some dpi that will be "added" when you reduce it.

But professional quality bitmap files are ususally 1200 dpi, at final size.

If you can, try to create logos in a vector based format.

They are resolution independent, and can be resized without losing any detail....

As for getting it printed out, Kinko's should be able to print that for you on some clear "overlay" type of material.

Good luck!

How high is it over the body?

You may have to shim the neck.

Or if you want pull-back capability, you might as well go for the fully recessed trem, in which case no shim will be needed.

1: Veneer is so thin, that nothing should need to be changed on your guitar.

If you have mounting rings for your pu's, then you may need to lower your pu's a hair.

But that should really be all...

2: Glue, dye, paint, clear coat.

I think that covers it.

In regards to a fretless guitar......

I don't know if there's anything floating around on the web, but check out Steve Vai on the G3 "Live in Denver" CD or DVD.

Triple neck guitar in action.................

First thing first......

Before you go ahead and move the neck into the neck pocket, double check the scale length.

I have a feeling that the neck wasn't "yanked" forward, but instead it was replaced with a neck that was slightly shorter.

Second, if it turns out that you DO need to move the neck, please stay away from the wood filler when it comes to filling the holes in the neck.

Drill them out and insert dowels. THen you can position your neck properly, and drill new holes.

Oh, and how much are you paying for that guitar...?

It sounds like all you're really getting is the body, and the rest you're planning to toss in the garbage.......

Well, I have always been of the school "only tighten it as much as really needed".

My guitar stays in tune very well.

It's not particularly healthy to clamp the sh*t out of it...

But that's just me.

If there is no tuner (or anything else for that matter) to actually hold the string won't it simply slide through the locking clamp?

I know on my Lo-TRS equipped RG, if I slacken a string behind the locked nut, it will (slowly) go out of tune, as the string starts to slip.

If the string is tuned to full tension using the tuners, the clamp keeps it from "moving" too much.

Your idea has nothing to hold the string at that tension...

I don't think there is enough force in just the clamps to hold the string in place.

Or am I missing something...?

Nothing strange about that.

Just like a Tele, or a Jazz bass...

Just make sure it fits the overall flow and design of the body......

Bring the strings close to pitch by pulling on them with pliers.....