RAI6

It's not how big or fancy your tool is, it's what you can DO with it that counts.

That's what I've been trying to tell my wife for all these years.....

Use double-sided tape...

It may not hold if you decide to stage-dive with your guitar into the mosh-pit, and you may have to replace the tape every few weeks, but it shouldn't really harm the finish...

You would think.

What's wrong with the photo you posted?

Looks to be fairly straight on...

Just size it so that the nut width in the picture matches what you're doing, and you're set.

Since you're looking into buying a complete new Veneer, youll need to measure the body to see hom much you plan to saw off the top.

Veneer is paper thin, so no sawing is needed. If he was adding a cap, then he would have to saw off the original top accordingly...

And to Bluestreak...

What is the base color for the guitar going to be? I mean the back and the sides?

For the front, if you're just adding veneer, there is no reason to take the finish off completely.

Just give it a good sanding.

And for the veneer you can only do so much. You probably cannot do a stain-black-sand-back, as it's too thin...

Good luck!

Awesome looking guitars!

Is the top of the first guitar handcarved, or is that how the wood was?

And speaking of the first guitar...

Is it just me, or does the bridge look crooked?

It looks like it's closer to the neck on the treble side, and all the saddles are pulled all the way back...

How would I go about masking my tremolo cavity?  Should I just rout it slightly large?

The problem with not spraying clear inside the cavity is that the crackled finish will just flake off.

How thick are you expecting your finish to be, if you think you need to route your trem cavity larger to still fit the trem?

And why cannot you spray clear inside the cavity?

Or try a library....

"Snakewood:

Salvation, thirst, swollen scrotum, irritates mucous membranes"

I've been looking for 7-string (baritone) RG plans but haven't found any.

Is there any?

I could use those jem blueprints from jemsite.com but it's 6-string version, I think. Is it possible to use that jem blueprint to this project?

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The body is exactly the same. Only the obvious stuff changes (neck pocket, etc).

Good luck!

"If you're 'sure this has been asked a million times....', then try a SEARCH in the Inlays/Finishing topic (where this question should have been posted initially).

THREAD CLOSED."

I'm still trying to figure out what is so harsh/bad/rude/mean about the above post...

It's fairly straight forward.

If that is considered "tough love", I wouldn't want to be in the same room as Kevan and a jar of Vaseline when he's being really nice!

Now, let's get back to the party!

Different effects belong in different places.

Stuff like distortion and compression should be between the guitar and the amp.

Delays, reverbs and such, should be in the FX loop.

The order of your effects also make a difference.

Some are important, some are just a matter of taste....

And you guys who like it loose, say that it always stays where you want it. I don't see how that's possible. If it's loose it never stays in the same place.

It's always aimed toward the floor. There's never any doubt about where to find it. It's the law of gravity... if your playing on earth anyway. It just makes sense to me and many others, but it's just a preference I guess.

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Of course it's always pointed toward the floor. And it will always be in the same spot.

As long as you don't move, and don't move the guitar...

But when you play, it should be like this:

X10

Rock on, brutha!

It helps quite a bit to have the bar stay in place if you want to do trem flutters.

And you guys who like it loose, say that it always stays where you want it. I don't see how that's possible. If it's loose it never stays in the same place.

You move the guitar, the bar moves.

You turn the neck up for a better grip on a tough chord, your bar is no longer where you left it.

For me, a bar that stays in place is a must.

And to get it out of the way, you just give it a quick little push with your pinky. It only goes so far, but it's out of the way. If you need it again, just reach out your pinky, and it's right there.

For a close study of whammy bar techniques, check out Vai's "Live at the Astoria" DVD.

Plenty of good samples there...

If you want it to look like it's out of the same slab of wood, take it to a shop that has resaw capability and have them slice off the cap.  You can glue it back on after you've chambered the body.

That's the way I would do it.........

That would be correct!

If the print was desolved by the clear, my guess is that you had the image facing up, and not down. You need to have your logo printed mirrored, so when you apply it (right reading) the ink is down, away from the clear...

Or maybe there are other issues I'm not aware of?

Will I be able to fit other varieties of machine heads straight to my guitar or will I need to drill extra holes etc?

How will I know that machine heads I buy online will fit my guitar?

How do I remove gmachine heads from the guitar?

Let's start with the last question...

Remove the strings first.

Then remove the nut on the face of the headstock, and then unscrew the screws on the back of the headstock.

Now take measurements of both the tuner post, as well as the hole in the headstock.

Find the different tuners you are looking for, and see what the measurements are.

If you are trying to decide between two different brands (and want to keep things easy), pick the one that has matching measurements.

At the very least, you will probably have to drill new holes on the back of the headstock, as the screw back there isn't very likely to be in the same position. There are some tuners that don't have a screw on the back (Sperzel, for instance), but they still have a small locator pin that you need to drill a hole for.

If the holes in the headstock doesn't match anything, you may have to ream or fill (depending on if holes are too small or way too big) to get a good fit.

That should answer most of your questions....

Looks like it's a 2-piece body.

I see a faint shift in color, particularly at the neck joint...

Otherwise, I like the white knobs, IF there is something else to go with it.

In this case the binding on the neck, the pu's, the switch tip, and finally the strap.

Looks great!

Looks a little "top heavy", don't you think?

If I remember it correctly, the "slanted humbucker" look was actually based on the fact that when using Floyds the polepieces wouldn't line up with the strings.

Angle the humbucker slightly, and the problem was fixed...

So, with the F-spaced humbuckers available nowadays, there is really no reason to angle the pu anymore.

But I might be wrong.

Most likely its a bad string.

If your guitar has always been OK, and it just turned whacky after a string change...

I've had it happen to me.

I would always check the intonation after a string change. After a string change one day, I had to pull the low E saddle so far back on my Floyd, that it hit the wood behind the trem route when pulling up. Replace the E string, and things were back to normal.....

So, before you try anything radical, try something cheap, and just replace the string.

Well, it sounds like you would like to eat your cake, and keep it too...

Sure, you could angle the crap out of the TOM, but the more you angle it, the narrower the string spacing becomes.

If you want to do a fanned fret guitar, there are simply some things you cannot get around.

A "special" bridge and nut, for instance...

It's like saying "I want to build a neck-through guitar, but I don't really want the wood to go all the way through..."

Well, not quite, but almost.

Personally, I wouldn't have bought a guitar I suspected to be "hot".

The problems that could follow just isn't worth it.

And if I found out after the fact, I would do my best to get it back to its rightful owner.

Sure, I might "suggest" some sort of reward...

But if no reward was offered, at least I would be able to sleep at night, knowing I did the right thing.

You cannot put different height frets.

Well, maybe lower frets on the top, but not the other way around.

As you fret the lower notes, the string will hit the higher frets.

Not good.

The solution you're looking for is called "scalloping".

Scallop the higher frets, and you'll have easier bending.

Looks like a Ron Thal fan.

I was thinking the same thing.............