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Posts posted by RAI6
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...plenty of meat left in the shaft.
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It looks like a nice, subtle swirl.
Once you add the clear, the gloss will make the swirls "disappear" (in the reflections...) even more. Quite classy, and not overly obvious.
Good job!
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Don't you already have a topic on this?
http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=20088
If not, please excuse me...
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Doesn't look dropped.
It doesn't have the arm rest carved.....
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How do you get an unevenly colored finish like those I see on Eastman guitars? Check out the brown ones here: http://www.jhalemusic.com/pages/eastman.html I love the way it looks. Is this simply a byproduct of hand applied spirit varnish, or is there some kind of weird technique involved?
Well, looking at the link you provided, I don't see any guitar with an "uneven" finish, so I have to assume that you are referring to the sunburst that most of those guitars in the link seem to have.
Usually, those are sprayed, but I believe Myka here on the board has had some great results with handrubbing stains to a "sunburst" finish...
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They did a damn good job of making the whole thing level with the neck through portion and with wing wood that looks that good, why veneer? Also, when that back piece broke off, why didn't the veneer chip away?
If you put the veneer on the "wing wood" before you saw down the body blank, you don't have to level anything out...
Why veneer the body?
Well, if the body wood is harder to finish than the veneer wood, you just saved yourself alot of hassle. I think it would be very cheap and easy to just slap some veneer on all your body blank material, if this means that the finishing process will be ALOT faster and easier.
If I'm not completely mistaken, the JEM7VWH is done in this fashion. Veneered for finishing reasons, even though it's a solid finsh.
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Here's the link for Rondo in the US--maybe your guitar is on this page? Looks like it's the same logo
OK, I just looked at that site...
How in the h*ll can you sell a guitar for $70?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
If you take out the profit and manufacturing costs, you're down to maybe $10 for materials.
Granted, they're obviously not stellar pieces, but still....
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CorelDraw? Adobe Illustrator? Something else?
What software makes really clean, high quality graphics for headstock logos and things like that?
Anything vector-based program will work.
If you're just doing type, all you need is a good font library and Word or whatever program you might have...
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It sounds to me like Warmoth has given you all the answers you need.
Spend some time around here, search, read, search again, and read some more.
Once the information start to click into place, I'll think you'll understand their replies.......
Have fun!
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Kev, do you have an idea how much they'll be going for?
I'm not too fond of the $75 price tag on the StewMac one...
Plus, you say it's a P.I.T.A. to install.
No thank you, don't need that!
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Any idea on when can we actually buy one?
In a few weeks...?
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Hey, Kev....
Is this thing related to yours, in any way:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...er.html#details
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How far back should the bridge be from the nut? I just kinda randomly placed the bridge where it is...
Well, that depends on the scale length.
I hope you're familiar with what that is....?
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While that isn't impossible, it would require EXTREME accuracy.
The way to go is to glue on wings, and then add a back and front.
If you really have to...
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They look pretty darn thick...
Hopefully most people realize you cannot just replace the bobbins on the pickups, but you actually have to glue these suckers on top of it all!
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Adding a top and/or a back doesn't exactly fall in the "glue on wings" category, as the poster described it...
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Not only that, your tool already has a cool pet name...
Hey, who doesn't have a pet name for their "tool"....?
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Am I insane to build a body, cut it in half (not literally, there's just less typing involved if I say it this way) and then bonding the neck between the two "wings" created?
What's so crazy about that?
That's exactly how you build a neck-through....
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Well, I can help with the resolution stuff...
Anything you pull off the web is going to be 72 dpi.
How large is the actual image?
Photoshop can tell you that, but if you don't have that...
An easy way to find out is to simply place the image into a Word document (or any page layout program), and you will see it's true size.
And, basically, for a 72 dpi image to look "good", it has to be used at around 25% of it's original size. That would make a 4"x6" image only about 1"x1.5".
Not very big.....
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With a paint job like that (which is awesome, BTW), I think inlays of any sort would just be way, way, way too busy!
The only thing I can picture are small dots, in a red color matching the body.
But that's just me.
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They have large format printers, that can print something large enough to cover your body. You would then glue that printout to your guitar, and clear over it.
As far as the stuff you've found online, most likely won't be "good" enough for such a large print. It should be around 300 dpi at the full size you would print it. Screen images are 72 dpi, and way too small to cover your guitar.
But I'm assuming you're talking about a full-body graphic.
It's possible to use the online pics, if you only want a small pic somewhere on the body...
But still, the final resolution needs to be 300 dpi at it's full size.
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It seems to me, that design is much more forgiving when it comes to fit.
No matter what, the neck will touch somewhere.
If the neck is too wide, it will touch the sides, but not the bottom.
If it's too narrow, it'll touch the bottom, but not the sides.
On a regular bolt-on, too wide means it won't fit, too narrow will show a huge gap on the sides.
Maybe that's just me....
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Drak has inspired him to not be afraid to simply abandon (and destroy!) a project if it's simply not shaping up to be what he expected....
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Here is just ONE EXAMPLE of what can happen when you enlist amatuers to do a professional job.
Neck being made for member: GOTH FIEND
Wow....
I'm speechless.
Can A Trem B Installed Without Routing?
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
At the very least, you have to route for the trem block and springs.
You don't have to route a "pull-back" cavity on the top. Then you can only dive, and as the trem will sit quite high off the body, you need to angle the neck.