jamesj

you reckon she can even see the strings?

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Thats what I want for X-mas!

Perry, I think you are being a bit harsh and rather understimate my own intellect. As you know I have a small budget, and the jointer/planer deal that I mentioned at the beginning of the thread was only £200 - this is my entire 'big' tool budget, so it's not like i'm spending mega-bucks before getting bored of building guitars.

I'm simply gathering opinion on the most useful tools, as at the moment I have some money to use for tools, and wish to spend it in the right way. Hence my previous post on scroll saw/bandsaws. I don't want to buy something that in the long-run the money would have been better spent else-where.

But on the other hand I appreciate and understand your sentiment.

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I have a planer, a delta 12", its not big enough for most one piece bodies, 2 Piece yes and its great. as for the jointer some people swear by them, I just use the table saw with a jig I made to get my glue joints. I am currently gathering parts to make a thickness sander, I figure a hundred bucks in parts maybe. I'm also designing a homemade oscillating sander. but thats after I finish my "folding" table saw extention/router table combination. I may design it to drop in the router slot on the extention. I have figured out there is no need to buya tool when you can make it cheaper.

The RGX 421, thats what you think it is ??

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Well, I'm certain that it's a RGX 421 neck. I'm not exactly sure what the body is, since they didn't have those kind of body contours near the horns, nor that many holes for controls.

The only pick of an RGX 421 with the same 12th fret inlay I could find:

http://www.rafzielak.za.pl/sprzedam-kupie/...a_RGX421-PF.jpg

EDIT: changed to adhere to the board policy. The image is under the size limit, but it's not on my server.

Remember the Alamo, and God Bless Texas...

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My serial number is on the back of the head but it is light, his could be filled with paint , or maybe even sanded off.....

sure looks like an rgx model when they were trying to find an answer to the ibanez craze

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The head looks like mine,(what I can see) the reliefs in the cutaways also. My pickups are different, How about a couple more pics, the head and back too,(on a lighter background)

We will figure it out

it has nothing on it.  the only thing that holds a name or anything is the pickups, and the just say yamaha.

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Then it may not ba a Yamaha....... My 603s has two seperate "straps" that the neck bolts through, one says Yamaha, The other Super playability joint system, on the back of the head is my serial number.

looks like an RGX, maybe a 112 or 312 except that design on the 12 fret. never seen that.

Thanks for the info! Drak I did not see an actual tele template on stew mac, but my brother is bringing his new/used 200 buck mim tele he bought last night for me to use. I have a router bit that is the opposite of the template bit, but It can be used to "make" a template. Then move the bearing to the top of my other bit and add a tube I'll have the bit then I need!

Thanks again

JJ

You just described pretty much how I build all my Teles.

What's your budget for this guitar, and do you know how to use a router and router templates?

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My budget....I guess unlimited, To the point Where Im that guy that will save money a year to buy that 1 part I want Of course I would rather spend just a couple hundred but if the proper parts cost more then so be it. as for the router I have done quite a bit with one, (edging tables, counter tops, plaques ect...) but never a template. I am a real quick learner though.

I want to do a telecaster, with everything routed from the back, no pickgaurd, or electric switch plate, I want the front as "clean' as possible. Has any one done it? Can someone help me with a template? I dont have access to one to get any measurments from.

J.J.

I also have a delta 9" and ofte use it to cut 1" Aluminum Plate it cuts it like melted butter, I havent tried hard wood yet but have no doubt it will with ease. I also have a cheap "bench top" scroll saw bought at the flea market for 20 bucks, it cuts 1/2"oak like cardboard. I was going to buy a delta, but 20 bucks... could'nt beat it!

A Jigsaw and a belt sander is what I used on my first..

Any chance you can get it from a local wood supplier. The Shipping will probably cost as much as the wood could be purchased for or at least very close. Thats only about $15-20 worth of 4/4.

Peace, Rich

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No one around here (small town) has anything like that, I thought about using poplar but I dont know. I have Mahogany for the neck, and kinda want to match it. If I do go with poplar it will be a hollow body and I'll split my maple, (1/2 top and back) Do what I gotta do

As little as the actual parts are..... Do you think it would work as a "built in" feature on my next project guitar?

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Sure, if you have a little room in the control cavity, there is no reason why you couldn't...

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I am going to make a seperate cavity, I want to put in something thats "different" I would really like to put a "talk box" in it but I have no Idea how to build one of those.

How thick?

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3/4 or thicker, My maple is 1 1/8" thick

Sorry, Im use to using the term 1X from construction. you know like the term 2X4 or "two by four"

As little as the actual parts are..... Do you think it would work as a "built in" feature on my next project guitar?

I found out the hard way how dangerous cocobola is to sand. I cant work it any more even with a gas mask on. Important also to wash dust off hands before using the rest room. That is all I will say about that.

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ooowwweeee! Forgot to wash them after putting Icey hot on my arm once, I know the feeling.

I can make you a vinyl single color decal, black, white, red, yellow, or blue is all the colors I have at the moment I'm ordering some gold friday. Since its so small All I want is you to make a small donation to this site, and send me a self adressed "stamped" envelope for me to ship it in..

If interested pm me for my address

I'm looking for a 1X peice of Mahogany.... Enough to make my guitar back, Two I can glue will work. something about 20-22" long and 13-14" wide. I have found some but why pay top dollar If someone has some leftover or something not thick enough for their project.

Thanks!

stop talking about it and make one to prove Greg wrong

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Absolutely. Not a person on this forum would mind being proven wrong here. I'm sure lots of people would see ~$700 as a small investment for a 3D medium-duty CNC capable of doing guitar bodies and necks. I wouldn't mind being proven wrong at all.

Greg

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Unfortunatley I dont have the investment $$ at the moment, Because I bought a Roland stika vinyl decal cutter, Maybe come the first of the year........... I am a member of several jobshop type forums, My first projects of that type are converting my mini mill and lathe to cnc (about 450.00 for both)... one thing I didnt consider is most people here dont have acess to a mill , lathe, and welders, where I would be making parts they would have to buy them, I would be able to buy a 96" ball screw and cut my peices out of it instead of buying 3 seperate smaller ones with milled ends, make my own motor mounts, connectors, blocks, etc.... Mine also would not be 4 ft. like his duplicarver, maybe 40X18X5 inchs of travel. I have found 276 oz stepper motors for 35 bucks each,3 axis controllers for 149, Maybe find it on ebay a little cheaper. The rail system dosent have to be as nice as his, the ball screws will prevent play in the system if done correctly.

Just need it sturdy and free moving. I Will draw up the plans, get parts prices Send them to whoever wants them...... Most people want to sell there plans, I'm NOT like that. It will take a little while (a couple of weeks) but hey were here to help each other out!

We had a 'DIY CNC' thread very recently, and the conclusion seemed to be that for that kind of money, you could make a 2D (not 3D) CNC machine for light-duty work such as inlay.  However, the consensus was that you don't have a shred of hope of building a body-routing grade CNC machine for remotely close to that price.

Greg

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Sure you could the 3rd. axis would only take a small slide and ball screw (4-5" travel max), and a stepper motor, the 3 axis controller is only 150.00 (30 bucks more than the 2 axis.)

Hey Drak, Im going to be using a 1/4" thick top, I have never "veneered" but I have glued lots of wood, Never a Maple Top, like my next project. My question is do I need a bigger peice to lay over it? At its thickness I was going to just use 1X2s Three places along the 16" tall X 11.25" wide body, That is what I have done with 1x12 oak on spruce to make 2xs for show tables (at work). I can cut out 3/4 partical board if needed.....

I would have used McMaster-Carr, Pillow blocks are like 35-40 each.....

The pillow block housings are roughly that much but the linear bearings are another $35-45 on top of that. But you are corret in that they can be had cheaper. You just need to watch out that you get quality bearings in a setup like this. There are several Thomson setups on the Bay' now. Erik, what are the dimensions of the rods?

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I understand the quality thing, I was just looking at the first carver and its made like train wheels on a track, I have seen other types that use Iron pipe for rails, Aluminum, even wood..... His looks to be a much better design... but dollar for dollar, I would want to go alot less, I would not use it enough to justify 700.00, besides I belive I could make a CNC router for that kinda money.

The router was ~$150 (already had it), the rods and mounts I found as surplus stuff at work (otherwise I'd never have done it).  I got the pillow blocks directly from Thomson, about $500 just for those.  Plywood, screws, etc.....I'd say slightly over $700.

The rods & pillow blocks are all 1-1/4" diameter.

I have been wiping it down before & after with WD40, its getting a bit better.  I think I just didn't do the best job of removing that layer of oil/grease or whatever that was on the rods.

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I would have used McMaster-Carr, Pillow blocks are like 35-40 each.....

You'll want to keep Silicone spray lube as far away from your guitar work as humanly possible - it'll make anything it gets on *hell* to finish, and once it's on wood it's virtually impossible to get rid of it.

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Almost anything is going to collect the wood dust. On that I woud use wd40 (or similar...cheap) and wipe them down before and after every use. (Spray the rag) keep anything you use away from your project, Lubricant and raw wood makes for a bad finish.

You might be shorting out the antenna, which is probably just a trace on a circuit board, or there's a grounding problem, maybe a ground loop with the guitar's electronics with the transmitter's electronics.

Keep in mind that those systems work on pretty high frequencies, so they're going to be fairly touchy when you start taking them apart. I'm just a ham radio operator, not an RF engineer, but VHF/UHF transmitters and receivers are very susceptible to interference and are often very carefully engineered to work in the setup they were originally designed.

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If you get it figured out let me know, I thought about trying it but didnt cause I was scared and couldnt find any info on it