demonx

You should know by now, its ALWAYS necessary!

If I read it right, yes. You'll want to copy the link that has style bracket at the beginning

Coming along nicely. As soon as it finished and you're using it everyday you'll wonder how you survived so long without it. It's like that every time I add something to the workshop.

This youtube video should cover it:

You need to upload the pics to a server of some kind, for example, photobucket is one of the most common and is free and simply to use. Then simply copy and paste the links from photobucket into your post here on project guitar.

Either put the angle back into the heel or shim the kahler. Get some plastic sheet the same color as the kahler and route the cavity into it, then cut around it in the profile of the base plate. It'll be nearly invisable. They sell them off the shelf but the price is rediculous. I had to do this once when I messed up the wing lamination on a flying V (slipped down as I used **** clamps) and had to hand plane the top back a couple mm further than I had planned to, so I simply lifted the kahler 2mm to take the difference. It was virtually un-noticable and the playing height was still decent, as in probably still less than a TOM bridge. The kahler saddles have quite a range in height adjustment, so look what you have there before you go messing around.

I've done double binding with this glue, in one hit. Just get it taped and it'll stay

I'm not a big reader but after getting hooked on Game of Thrones TV show and then reading the boxset of them after being left with the season 2 cliff hanger I decided to have a bash at music related books. First one I tackled was Yngwie Malmsteens Autobiography "Relentless" which to be honest was pretty average, but I'm a Yngwie fan so knocked it over pretty quick. I've just about finished reading "Dirt" by Motley Crue, which is way more interesting than Yngwies book, makes them out to be just self centeres junkies, but lots of interesting stories. So what decent books are out there guitar related that arent about building the things?

Just recess the Kahler as RAD suggested. Another thing to make note of with the Kahler is you want a little bit more angle than minimum, otherwise your strings will hit the adjustment screws behind the saddles

I've used it like that for multiple binding before, yes. Just get it taped up in the right spot. Its my "go to" for any plastic binding. I should mention though, stewmac always had a red tube and the one I have is red, not sure why the stewmac pic shows a blue tube, maybe the company has changed its packaging? That I cannot answer.

Weld On from stew mac. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Binding_glue/Weld-On_Cement.html I buy it locally from a plastic supplies so you may be able to track it down locally yourself. I don't do much in the way of plastic binding so my tubes dry up before I finish them, so just buy small tube and save dollars When using it I have found that more is more as opposed to the old less is more saying.

I have a big house heater in the shed. Gets very warm. I use small stuff as kindling to get it started before throwing on logs. At the moment I'm burning structural timber from some internal house walls I pulled out as part of a massive gut and rebuild I'm doing. All skirting, architrave and wall timber I cut on site so it was space friendly and then moved it to my workshop to burn in the heater. It still took up about a car space stacked nearly chest high

All my saw dust goes in the chook shed.

I wish I could take credit for it as my method, but it's not - Its the standard process that pretty much every show car 2k paint job is sprayed, just the flash times are changed for a spray booth environment. Good luck and hope you get it solved.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46118-searls-black-v6/page-5?hl=searls That link is to a black guitar I sprayed about 18 months ago. You can see the steps, pic of tack coat, then base coats and clear coats all in one day, then on the next page is the finished/buffed paint. Hope that helps you see what I'm trying to explain

Not trying to argue or anything, but I've never heard of anyone EVER sanding basecoat in between layers (I'm talking auto 2k, which I'm sure is what you said you're using). Old School acrylic guys etc will, but wer're not talking acrylics here and its a complete different paint process. If the basecoat looks a little bit orange peely, not excessive, but only very slightly, which sometimes it can under very close inspection, the thinners in the first clear coat layer should smooth this out anyway. If its excessively orange peeled, then either your technique or gun setup needs a look at. Check your air pressure at the gun (not at the compressor) is correct, check how close to the guitar the gun is, check the gun settings are right, check you're not overlapping your layers too much or too soon between coats, check that you're moving fast enough and the gun isnt being held on the same place too long. For a solid color like the black you're doing I usually only ever spray two full coats of base and thats after one light tack coat. The time frame for that would be spray tack coat, wait a couple minutes, full coat, wait ten or fifteen minutes, second full coat, wait an hour and then first clear coat, wait ten to fifteen minutes, second clear coat, wait twenty to thirty minutes and then last clear coat. All in one session, no sanding between coats. Let it hang for a week before you wet sand and polish the clear. That is how I spray 2k auto base and clear on a guitar. I hope that helps you out and saves you a lot of effort in uneeded sanding!

Spalted neck!!! I'd have said no as well! I had a guy last year with some crazy timber requests. I ended out saying if he can find the timber in X size then ill do the build. He couldn't find the timber!

I never wet sand primer. Always dry sand. It helps to have an air gun by your side and every thirty seconds blow out the sand paper. Once it gets some chunks the air gun won't remove turf it and grab a new piece. Also check if the primer you're wet sanding is water proof, as a lot aren't. Why are you sanding basecoat? Unless you screw up and have to remove it (like your last posts shows) the basecoat usually never gets sanded. IF you do screw up the base coat and have to remove it, splash some thinner on it, let it soak for five ten seconds and wipe off with paper towel, then it'll only need a basic scuff sand not a clog up your paper hard work sand.

Eddie, maple is one of the best neck timbers available, just takes a bit more effort to carve, with that in mind though once you've carved wenge you won't complain about maple! I'm glad you got it sorted and I hope you pickup one if the moisture readers I put you onto as it'll pre solve a lot of your problems.

I agree with Rad, I would not file the fret barb, its just asking for trouble. Even with glued frets. The super glue is there to assist the barbs not to replace them.

Congrats on the win. Well deserved

Thanks for the reply Doug, much appreciated. Pics, video and any info is always good. Do you have a couple reccomended supplier for the CNC components you have used?

So far I've only been full custom and then I've had a bit of influence on the specs adding my 2c, however I'm really wanting to get away from that. I want to have a handful of models with variables and the customer can tick a few boxes and there's the build sheet. That's what I want to work towards, I just need the time to build dozens of guitars do I can work out what options I want to make available!

Its not my call! I was just throwing out a suggestion. I don't even know how many members on here would fall into that category or if it'd be worth it. Was just a passing thought I threw out there for discussion.

I cannot give a definite yes/no answer as I'm not holding the item, but putting some pressure on the truss rod to see if it'll fix your problem is free, reversable, only takes a few seconds and will not damage your neck.