demonx

You suck... (translates to : nice score, I'm jealous!)

I'd say they did this simply because it was the cheapest way out of a sticky situation. Purely a business decision.

At the time it looked crap! I had no idea it was going to "pop" this nice. A pleasant surprise.

Looks great! I actually like the look of the back more than the front - although the front looks good! Congrats!

I just snapped these pics to see how the clear turned out. I've done better - but it'll cut/polish up great. I'm still experimenting with this new European Clear I bought. It sprays so much different than the PPG stuff I'm so used to. I'm really liking the way the color turned out. I'm thinking now I should have saved the left over mix rather than pouring it into my "soup" bottle, as there was enough to paint another guitar! I'm going to call this blue "Ceylon Blue" as it's the color of a Ceylon Saphire thats in a ring I had made for my other half years ago. Can't wait to get it assembled and take some pics out in the sun.

Chrome hardware and chrome pickups

Fifth and final:

Fourth - nearly at the color I want. Maybe one more coat? (there ain't no going back!)

Third candy coat: The light in that room with the heat lamps and the orange plastic really plays tricks on the mobile phone camera lens. It looks much different to the eye.

Figured it was time to update this one: Yesterday I sprayed the back black and then a coat of intercoat clear since I was not clearing it that day. The intercoat clear means I can work on it, tape it up, etc etc knowing the basecoat is covered. Today I sanded back the edge lines where the sides meet the top and started spraying a custom candy mix I conjured up this morning. It's a mixture of a heap different PPG Candy dyes I had until I got a color I was happy with. First candy coat: Second candy coat: More coats to come but I'm posting as I wait for the last coat to flash off so I can spray more!

TIP FOR THE DAY: PREPSOL. Prepsol is a wax and grease remover. Normally, I would prepsol a paintjob before laying basecoats - however today for some stupid reason, I decided I didn't need to. Start laying paint - BANG - a thumb print. Our body oils are one of paints natural enemies, along with dust we carry in on our skin and clothes. We can't see the oil we spread when we handle things, yet when the paint hits the oil, its doesn't like it. Becomes clearly visable, also means theres not 100% adhesion in the contaminated spots which could cause paint failure in the future.. The fix: sand back and do it again. The prevention : Prepsol. Prepsol has it's own devils. You need to wipe it on with one rag, wipe it off with another rag, as you also need to get all the prepsol off or it'll create its own non adhesion contamination.

G'day. There's a few forum members from Melbourne, I'm from Ballarat myself. Good luck putting together this project. If it was me planning that graphic I'd probably offset the center point to the bridge location, that way it'd hide the harshness of the point and then the different lengths of the fans will add contrast to the design.

For me it was a close call between Shad and AndyT - but Andy got my vote. The color I think won me over. Absolute class. I'd have to call Rads superstrat for third place. Theres something simple and honest about plain Ash.

Band saw blades: When I was using a 1/2" bandsaw blade I could not even dream of cutting inside the horns. Now that I'm using a 1/4" blade on my bandsaw, I can cut the curve of the horns in one smooth easy cut. Follows the line whichever way I turn it. Then the sander that everyo9ne else is mentioned is the absolute best tool for inside horns.

I sit my guitars on carpet underlay - I have about a dozen mats laying around my workshop and the guitars are always seated on one of them, so it's not an issue.

Yeah, ex school bench, however I got it from a clearance place that sells bulk lots. I'm not going to re top it as I like the rustic look!

Today I recieved this old hardwood workbench. Rock solid. Heavy. Doesnt move! Just what I've needed for so long. Came with two old solid vices, one on each corner. I'm very happy!

I only use 2k. 2k clear will not pull. If you do damage it in any way then you haven't left it long enough.

That sure is a nice looking neck there mate. Also - I'm not sure what type of board this is in the first pics but it's absolute drewl worthy!

There has been plenty of "beginner paint" questions lately so I figured I'd throw out a basic trick that I have to do from time to time. When you get a run in your clear, you can't just sand it back as you often sand through the clear either side of it... so: Run two strips of tape either side of your run. These pieces of tape act like a router sled for your razor blade and protect the clear around your run. As long as you keep your blade onto these pieces of tape, you're not going to scratch through your clear. You can either scratch the run back or you can try slicing it off. If you see the tape start to break up - you're pushing too hard IF SLICING - Dont slice the whole way through as it'll rip the clear up all the way back to the wood. Try alternating front to back or the run and try jiggling the blade rather than pushing the blade. Scratching is much safer. You're not trying to get it flush. You're just getting it back so it's sandable with the rest of the surface. This way lowering your chance of sanding through. I hope at lest one person learns something from this! Cheers.

Basically all the hardware you need to build an 8 string. AU$650.00 (similar to 650 US$) all up posted anywhere in the world. Accept Paypal. 8 String Kahler Trem (can lock into fixed bridge) Retails around the $300 mark + post 8 String Kahler lock nut - Retails around the $100 mark + post Lundgren M8 pickup (same model Messugah uses) Retails around the $300 mark + post 4x Gotoh Left tuners + 4x Gotoh Right tuners - all 8 retail around the $65 mark + post All Brand New. All black. I'll even throw in a set of brand new unopened strings matched specific for an 8 string guitar, 10 - 13 - 17 - 30 - 42 - 54 - 64 - 74

Congrats! Bet you're stoked about that!

I took some snap pics today of old guitars I had laying around to do a pictorial about the evolution of my headstock shapes over the years. My reverse pointy: a) Started off about a decade ago as a blatent ASM copy - I NEVER sold any of these A bit later I decided to sharpen the lines and add a more extreme hook c) I realised my "B" shape looked like crap so I smoothed it out a bit. I was still freehand drawing this onto the timber every build d) I finally madce a template and dialed in the lines a bit better. This shape I built 3 of. 2 of them I still own, one of them has toured all over Australia. This shape I liked but the thin "E" tuner was off at too much of an angle. Ok for a guitar with a locking nut, but no good if it's a regular nut e) My current headstock, fixed the "E" problem by leaning the headstock tip down a bit and making less of a hook. My "Side by Side" design process I wanted something small and pointy, so I looked at the PRS headstock and decided what I did and didn't like about it. I didnt like the symetrical aspect or the tip. (a & I started with my reverse point template and got the top and bottom curves to match my side by side and moved them around till I like the offset: After messing around on autocad with a million different curves I finally worked on the basis that if I could tightly squeeze 3 tuners on the bottom and 4 on the top, that's give me my curve lengths c, d & e) To make the headstock easily repeatable, I made all the tight curves match my linisher drum. f) My current Side by side headstock.

If it's pulled it it won't be flat anymore, so you would have to sand if flat again for starters. You could try a second coat and hope that the first coat will help it stay, but there's no promises I'd probably suggest trying a different product that has predictable results

All I'm reading is you've bought a pre fab body, thrown on a neck and you're blaming the bridge manufacturer that they don't match. Have you considered the heel on the neck may be in a different position to where the heel would be on the tele's neck. This is the most likely cause