demonx

It'd be 18 actually if you count the matching lams on the top of the headstock. I'm not fussed about numbers. I was trying to get a certain look and I think I found it. Enough that I've already had an order for a similar neck but in more exotic timbers.

Probably not the answer you're looking for but might spark an idea. I use mini switches all the time. I never solder a ground, however I always use a copper plate in the bottom of my cavity which everything goes through, so when I tighten the mini switches they are grounded to this, same with the pots and the cap etc. It's acts as common ground for everything. If you don't want to run a full plate you could use a small strip and just use it as a soldering tab or just wrap a wire around the top before tightening?

A couple "Darkhorse" updates. Tuners in: Trem installed and wiring started: I changed my mind on assembling as to which type of switch I'll use, so Ive had to drill a larger hole and order a larger switch which will set back assembly by as long as it takes xmas mail to get here.

Black burst cut and polished - photo doesnt really show it as theres too much reflection but the black is BLACK - I wont bother trying to take decent pics till it's assembled Thew Jarrah board finished up WAY better than I was expecting. It was only yesterday I ws telling someone I'll probably never use it again, but after sealing it - the Jarrah has "popped" very nicely.

Looks great! Good work as always. Lots of attention to detail that so many builders overlook.

Yes is does - but this doesnt mean its water, it means its dor displacing water! Read the "function" section and tell me again if you think its a good idea to spray on a surface you want zero contamination on: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

This purple lokos much, much better

Have you checked the fret spacing with the scale length?

I've looked at the eureka flag many times. It's got a strong history in ballarat (where I live) which is also sometimes called eureka. The eureka rebellion in the 1800's was just around the corner from where I live.

Great looking guitar. The American flag always looks so cool airbrushed. I wish the Aussie flag looked as cool! I've wanted to do an Aussie flag guitar for a while but I cannot seem to get an image in my head that will look great.

The burst is airbrushed. I focused first on hiding/blending the join between the solid sides and the clear top, then after that is accomplised, I just freehand blend the burst until it looks how I want. I'm currently in between clear coats on this and the rosewood top tele, aka "Darkhorse".

The quality of these are great, it's the wait time that's a pain and it's costly (about $5ea) I keep telling myself to buy a plotter cutter and make them myself but I never seem to have the money. PM sent paulie

The last time I sprayed a burst, I did the entire thing with the airbrush and found it took a lot of time to do the outside (sides) if I wanted it at 100% So I went back to the way I did my first ever burst - taping up the top and rear then spraying the sides with a touch up gun (a mini spray gun). Tomorrow when I get time I'll break out the airbrush and then come in and do the burst. The airbrush allows me more control that trying to burst thin areas like the headstock and neck with a spray gun. But hitting it first like this has saved me ages of work on the airbrush. Then after with the tape removed:

Good to see you making a build thread here mate. This is very reminiscent of my very first guitars, following the old Mexican Method and using stuff all tools and zero templates! To anyone not familiar with the Mexican Method. Dont bother researching it, the jyst of it is a large block of wood and a carving knife and start carving till a guitar pops out! The old mexicans are some of the best luthiers in the world! Cant wait to see the finished product.

Today was a scarf joint day. I've only enough good quality clamps for the three neckthrus - tomorrow I'll cut and clamp the three bolt ons that are in this batch. I have several cheap clamps but I don't use them anymore. More trouble than they're worth. Also today in the mail arrived my small gold logos I've been waiting on. The two guitars I have in paint stages have been held back at least a month due to this delay. Looks like I'll be painting this week at some stage. Headstock decals:

Also bob, check your for sale post, it looks like verhoevenc is wanting to buy from you. Cheers

Nor mine. It's something I have to fight everytime I finish a guitar!

A lot of bits like that (the bigger ones) come with warnings to be mounted in a router table only as they're too dangerous in a hand router. I've got one that's about 125mm across, but it's too big to fit through the hole in my router table, so I can't even use it! So take that into consideration when buying also.

I say **** the photos. What is the point in buying kiln dried or air dried wood that is at a certain moisture content (so our guitars dont twist and fall apart) if you plan on just rubbing moisture back into them! Leave it dry till it's sealed/painted. As far as rattle can lubes and penetrating old rusted bolts etc, I use inox. If someone came into my workshop and sprayed inox in a guitar I'd possibly knock them out. It's a silicone based lube. Not a product to be used for guitar purposes.

*facepalm* I can't even think of anything to say. I think wes coveted it all! Bob. Simply put, when you want to paint or oil something, you want zero contaminants. Not deliberately introducing them. I have never heard of anyone using WD40 in luthiery, in fact I don't even use the stuff as a lube, it's dreadful! I even cringe when I see people wipe shellite or even water over timber for photos. When I spray my sealers I want them sprayed on raw timber, not timber that's been molested with something that could ruin the finish

Searls Guitars - WARBIRD #1 This guitar was commissioned by a gentleman who wanted a guitar to tribute his father. The number is his VX# from WWII. The truss rod cover is engraved with his regiment emblem and the rear cavity cover is engraved with a war medal he was awarded. Here is a quote from the owner: He is a big part of my life and we have always known and have been very proud of his achievements in WW2.. He is the only living survivor of the Australian Army's only ever parachute jump into battle. 30 other Aussie's jumped with Dad and thousands of US Airborne in New Guinea. Clear pics of the engraving etc can be seen here: http://searlsguitars.com.au/Gallery/027/027gallery.html More photo's and build pics (slideshow): Left Handed SS6 Neckthru - Warbird #1 Maple neck African Mahogany headstock and body Ebony fingerboard with large diamond abalone inlays White binding Kahler Tremolo Bareknuckle Painkiller Bridge Pickup - camo finish Bareknuckle Painkiller Neck pickup - camo finish Coil split and three way selector switch CTS 500k pots 0.022uf Paper Dipped in Oil Capacitor Switchcraft output jack Schaller style strap locks - Black Grover tuning Machines - Black 12 degree +/- headstock angle 16" fingerboard radius 25.5" fingerboard scale 24 frets 6150 Dunlop fretwire Black side dots Comfort curve rear Gentle top carve

Back on topic! I haven't got much guitar work done the last couple weeks, so when I finally got these boards cut, bound and drum sanded it felt like a major accomplishment! Also today, being my "guitar day off" I made this sign for my workshop. A bit of MDF and left over white house paint from when I painted some doors a while back, then the dregs of a black rattle can. Some time on front of the band saw and we have this - which you'll possibly see in the background of my future pics:

I live in Australia - you dont want to compete in hot weather stakes!! The 37 celcius I speak of was this week and it's not even summer yet (or it's just started). It's been raining here this week. Stormy weather and floods this week. Our hot weather season is not upon us yet! Give it another month and I'd not be surprised to be getting 47 degree days and me pulling sickies from work to sit in with the aircon! On top of thatr I odon't even live in the hot parts of Australia. I live down south where we get the cooler weather! Bugger living up north or out west.

The ash neck looks amazing. I wouldn't have though ash would be stable enough for a neck but learn something new everyday! Great work!

How much dust and crap is in that finish? You should find a better location or do some better location prep work before doing anything more. If I had dust like that in a finish I'd have to sand it back and start again. I have for much less.