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demonx

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Everything posted by demonx

  1. demonx
    Plus a little bit of an extra tease I'm doing for the customer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZB_Q0v0EVYc&feature=youtu.be I sometimes do a build pics slide show, but this time it's a bit more detailed.
  2. demonx
    Truss rod slot and body wings on today. Fingerboard and binding drum sanded as well.
  3. demonx
    I'd be using the devillbis, but there's so many models out there. What type is it, gravity fed? Tips will depend on that product you're using. I use automotive colors and clears. I use a 1.4 for color and a 1.8 for clear. You could use a 1.3 for the color and clear if you had to, but I just like a bigger tip to help the flow for the clear. 1.3 is probably the most common used tip fir color (with auto 2k) Every type of product is different though, swap from 2k to acrylic to enamel and you change your tip sizes each time. Research, experiment and work out what products you want to use then work out gun and tips from there
  4. demonx
    I tend to use kahlers on all my builds these day. It caters for both trem and fixed bridge customers as they have a grub screw to lock the trem. I use a floyd rose lock nut which eliminates all the after nut issues, even if the kahler is to be forever locked as a fixed bridge, so all the after nut science is a non issue. It's also a cool look on a superstrat which is what I mostly build
  5. demonx
    I really hope it doesn't disappoint as its for a paying customer!
  6. demonx
    Started another customer build today. This ones been on hold since last year but it was time to make it happen. Andrew already has a SS7 (seven string superstrat) I made him and he wanted a SS6 to compliment it. Specs are all African timber. Mahogony body and neckthru, Wenge fingerboard, Ebony binding. The last guitar I made for him is all Australian timbers. Bit of a theme thing going on.
  7. demonx
    Sounds like a score. You're lucky you can view these things in person. Most tools I buy are sight unseen and rely on sakes people's word filled up by Internet reviews as I live in a rural city so tool ships don't hold much large stock. To view in person is a luxury which can save a lot of money
  8. demonx
    I'm a reverse guy. Born in the 70s and grew up in the 80s so its been programmed into me! Jski: yes, reverse headstocks need lefty tuners
  9. demonx
    Mate - I just googled the SuperMax 19-38 to see what fabulous thing you've found and I'll stop you in your tracks right now... KEEP THE JET The SuperMax looks very close to a rebadged version of what I have and its a piece of ****. I had mine for only months and had to have the PC board replaced on warranty because the drive motor gets so hot. The thing overloads all the time and i'ts not so long since It was shim adjusted square and the thing needs to be set up again. Cheap piece of crap. Check out what Perry's new machine is - looks like a beast. Heres mine here and it's on the tattslotto/upgrade list:
  10. demonx
    I finished "The Dirt" today and just ordered "I am Ozzy" Thanks for all the references... Keep em coming!
  11. demonx
    It's not a major issue. I just have to sand it back and do it again. Being how the wenge fills its a two or more fill and sand stages anyway. So it probably hasn't created any more work and fingers crossed it doesn't happen on the second coat, assuming that this coat sealed. Ill find out where I'm at after I sand. I've thought about it and I possibly layed the sealer on a bit thicker than last time, so its probably a case of this new product I'm using needs more thinner coats rather than one thick.
  12. demonx
    What adds to the mystery is I used this same plank of wenge with this same tub of epoxy in the Clancy star. My guess is that its been freezing cold here and that the excessive large pores in the wenge have taken on more moisture than it may have six months ago the last time I used it. When it was in the woodfire heated environment with the epoxy, which also creates its own heat during the curing process, then somehow its created these bubbles which resemble the solvent pops caused by too much heat during spray painting. Well, that's one guess.
  13. demonx
    All over the wenge: all the parts of the wenge that are visible is the end grain, the way its cut and laminated
  14. demonx
    I voted for Rad. Every guitar he makes looks the same, however I mean that as a compliment! Let me explain: He changes the shape, changes the timbers, changes the amount of strings, but they all have the same design concepts, ideas and principals that he has worked hard to refine over many years making it HIS process and HIS brand.They stand out in a line up because they are his. So in saying that, this Tele looks just like his superstrats and other builds, but that is good. The simplicities of his tastes are there, but so are the intricacise that make them interesting. Great build.
  15. demonx
    The Wenge had a nice little surprise for me when I went out to the workshop this morning. It's not bubbled on the mahogany or the Padauk, just the wenge. I'll let it hang for a few days to get hard and sand it all back.
  16. demonx
    Jigs for everything... you must have a lot of storage space!
  17. demonx
    My favorite two pics out of all those are the two rear pics showing the black limba! Limba is always a stunning timber. I like it more than the quilted maple top!
  18. demonx
    Good to see you posted Ajax - and welcome again. Yep, pics are visable. It looks like you're on your way to feeling comfortable with the woodwork sides of things. As far as finishng goes, are you wanting to go more wipe on or spray on - what sort of finishes are you wanting to develop skills in? As in oils, water based, automotive?
  19. demonx
    That is the rear - I didn't realise I hadn't posted a rear pic:
  20. demonx
    Rad: its a neckthru, yes I always do the side dots at this stage. I like to radius the board after its mounted and I like to install side dots after its radiused. I've never actually made a set neck.
  21. demonx
    This guitar has been sitting untouched since January as I had customer orders and other more priority jobs that I had to get done first (like some house renovations). Today I dusted it off, did a bit of fretwork and installed the side dots.
  22. demonx
    I don't think the malmsteen one was ghost written or had much editorial input, it'd be much better (writing wise) if it was.
  23. demonx
    I've just never heard of "white" or "yellow" pine. Must be an American thing so I'm still unsure what timber you're talking about! Houses over here are made from what they sell as "structural" pine, which is basically the cheapest **** pine you can imagine. Pretty sure its radiata
  24. demonx
    What do you mean by "yellow" pine? Are you referring to radiata or something else? There are many pine varieties, some are called pine but aren't actually in the radiata pine family, like Huon for example, or kauri. Both of which I know have been used successfully for necks without anything other than a truss rod. I myself have used Huon in two necks, one of them winning me a GOTM, but don't think I will ever use it again for a neck. With so many timbers available, why not just pick one that is guaranteed? You're building a Warlock, majority of warlocks in the planet have maple necks. Why not go maple neck with mahogany wings? I recently did a respray of an old neckthru warlock with those specs. I happen to own an all maple USA neckthru warlock from the 80s, yet another popular spec
  25. demonx
    Welcome Ajax. Definitely post. A great way to intro youself is to simply make a build thread in the "in progress" area. Whether its a professional build or some kid just making some modifications to a chinese cheapie, that is the best place to start in my opinion and as you said, everyone here is very welcoming and willing to help.
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