demonx

Us Aussies are used to redicilous shipping costs. Every time I buy a few chunks of timber from the states the post is more than the wood itself. PM it is

We might be able to work out a trade of some sort. Doesn't make sense, but here in Australia, Aussie timbers cost more than imported timber. I pay nearly twice the price of mahogany for blackwood. I guess its because there isn't massive plantations of Aussie timbers like there are for foreign timbers. If you're serious about the blackwood thing, shoot me a message on Facebook and we can sort something out

I'll just assume that last comment is directed at Brett!

Part 6: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICZaZoag8hk&feature=youtube_gdata

Fair enough - just presenting possible issues. Personally though, if the main thing you're worried about is bumping the body whilst radiusing, then you'll have a panic attack when it comes to bevel the fret edges! In all seriousness, my opinion (I said my opinion, doesn't mean its fact or law) is that what you're doing is counter productive and going to create larger issues than the small ones your trying to avoid. As I said, only my 2c, now prove us all wrong!

One question How after painting do you plan on prepping the fingerboard area for lamination, as the paint will bleed onto this area, then it'll have to be planed, which will then wreck your paint. You can scrape it, but then you're creating an in even surface. I think you may need to re think

Of course (dust mask) My concern is how to hang them when these units are 50kg each. I don't have a truss roof in the shed and I'm not sure how much overall weight the top hat style roof I have can support since there's already other things hanging. I'm sure another 100kg won't be an issue but ill have to think it through proper Another thing is, about 15-20 min from where I'll be collecting these is one of the biggest timber yards (for exotics) in the country. As its a couple hours drive from me I rarely get there and when I do companies like Maton guitars and Cole Clark guitars and many others have already picked the place dry, so its always the dregs. I'm hoping I score something though, even if its just a chunk of Macassar ebony or similar. Also need to stock up on maple again as I'm all out of my "never ending" stash! I just stocked up on 1.5" tassy blackwood last week (my fav body wood) as well asanother lot of 2" African mahogany, which is another fav of mine for necks and backs of body wings. I also scored twelve meters of vic blackwood inch board last week which ill be using for neck blanks as well. I've got a heap of African mahog inch board coming in next week as well which ill be using for neck blanks, so when I get to this timber yard i'll be more reserved as to needing to see something special

Going in another direction (ie: protecting my lungs), I pick up two of these next week: http://www.carbatec.com.au/carba-tec-1700cfm-room-air-filter_c1550 Scored them second hand for $100ea second hand. (thats a $1558 saving on retail!!) I just hope they work. I'm going to assume the need new filters

Hey Rad, due to your referral (and lots of internet review reading) I just placed a depopsit on a Laguna 14 SUV and a Resaw King blade. The place in Brisbane (opposite end of the country form where I am) that is the importer are completely sold out, they have one container load of them arriving soon which is also completely sold out, then another container load due sometime end of September which is nearly all sold out. Mine should be in that Sept container. Seems they're become quite fashionable over here in Australia. I'm still umming and arrring about the drum sander. I've got hold of a mobile fork company that can unload it for me, I just wasnt planning on both that and the bandsaw purchase at the same time. Might have to hope the drum sander is still there in a few months.

I just typed "inline air gauge" into eBay and this is the first one on the list (just to show you what to get) they're light and not bulky and won't hinder your spraying. I have one on each of my main guns and then one with quick release fittings do I can use it on my other guns and air tools http://bit.ly/1dsjHHp You should be able to buy them from your local paint shop if they sell spray guns etc

Also, yes, if you strain the paint then there should be less crap in it to blow out. Another thing is, sometimes if the gun is not cleaned proper, little bits of paint can dry up in parts of the gun,cap, cup etc and when youre spraying, get freed up and then become shite in your paint job. I know I'm guilty of occasionally not cleaning my gun properly and its bit me on the arse before with getting flakes of another color in a fresh paint job. It helps to dissassemble the gun if its filthy and let it soak in thinners overnight (not the rubber seals if it has any) and then give it a really good clean out after that. One tip, keep a pin handy when you're painting as sometimes you'll need to pick a bit of crap out of the surface when its wet before it dries in the finish.

I dont want to sound like a broken record, but you have still not said if your pressure reading is "at the gun" 55psi at the air compressor may still only be 10 at the gun if your line has average leaks or a long hose etc. I know that if I run one of my crap hoses that I need to have 90psi at the compressor to get 30 at the gun... I usually just keep my compressor at 120 or 130 and make my adjustments at the guage attached to my gun to get it exact. If you're not getting the right air pressure at the gun then it can make the world of difference to the spray job, that includes not having the gun setup right. Some guns have a air pressure restrictor/adjustor on them and people often wind them in to make up for bad technique, but what youre doing is dropping the air prssure, if your gun has one of these (usually underneath), open it up. Most of the time people wind this in because a true 30psi scares a beginner sprayer and they get runs all over the place. The trick - move faster. If you dont have a guage on your gun, then get one. They're not expensive, you can put fittings on it so you can swap it from gun to gun. It may be something that simple that is your problem.

Could be an air pressure thing You never really answered if you have a gauge at the gun. Also, make sure that the cap and everything is tight and the seals are sealing properly as this can create issues as well. I know my iwata airbrush is a real bitch with splutter when the rubber o ring at the cap needs replacing.

I wouldn't be spraying largea metallic through such fine tips, but it depends how fine the metallic is, for example I have fine metallics here that I spray through a 1.4 but most I use a 1.8 or larger. Does your gun clog up a bit when its spluttering?

First thing that stands out to me is you said "Metallic". What size tip are you using? What size metallic flake are you using? Can you see where I'm going with that? It could be a damaged tip/damaged needle, could be technique, could be the paint mixture, could be the tip isnt big enough for the metallic When is it spitting? Is it at the start of your run? Also, when you say you're spraying at 30psi, is that at the compressor or at the gun? If its the compressor, then at the gun is probably more like 15psi and even though you think its spraying it, it's more like falling out. Must always have a variable guage at the gun Heres a short video I did a couple years ago for some other members and covers a few things that may help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWQmZwQL2ik

Then, in that same small space I would move everything to the side and cover everything with plastic sheets and spray in the same room. I'd leave them hanging there to dry.

My first work area was only half of a single car space, 3x4m I had to move things all the time. Move the bandsaw out so I could cut, move the jointer out so I could plane. If it was good weather outside I'd do a lot of work on a portable bench outside. As already mentioned, making things easy to move is the trick.

From my observations, its the width more than the profile as on a wider neck the hand doesn't have to close up as much. Profile does also have effect though. I myself have issues with my hands and fingers. Not as bad as some, but I'm constantly having to stretch out my tendons and ligaments, sometimes even grabbing the steering wheel of my car ill get a jolt of pain and have to stretch them out. Try playing a seven string guitar, much wider neck. It'll suck for a week or more until you get used to avoiding the string, but once your brain accepts that its there, then think about your fingers and if it relieves the issues somewhat I think you'll be surprised.

Only advice I can offer is sell it before you kill it and put the cash into a better one.

I know that the previous model to mine had design issues that created a tracking problem. They re designed and then released the newer model I know its a different brand, but most if these machines are the same thing rebadged, or same parts with a different housing etc, so its possible that the tracking issue is this, a design flaw that you cannot fix. My sander I've never had a tracking issue so they did work it out, I don't know what it was though as when I researched the purchase I was only interested to know I wasn't buying the one with tracking issues, however the damn thing does have the overheating issues (shutting off all the time) and I even cooked the PC board from overheating and had it fixed on warranty.

Thanks Brett, I assure you budget is a concern here also, if I buy this it'll be a credit card job and deal with it later. I called the shop where this sander is sitting and asked him to get the price down for me. I also asked if he can get me the Laguna saw and he said he probably can and could make the call. I told him not to look into that yet as it'll be months away but said i'm keen on the sander. Now to start working out how to move the sander as it's 180kg (about 400 pounds) - he has a forklift to load it into my ute, I just hope that my brother and I can lift it out without dropping it! Mental note - if I win tatts, buy a forklift!

I dissagree on the twin drum being useless - I understand the diffrent grade principal, but I sometimes run a piece through my single drum twice without adjusting the height as it seems to work better that way, having a double drum does this all the time. If you are referring to spindle (bobbin) sanders when you say oscillating drums are useless, then I dissagree, I use mine for a couple important jobs, its very handy Mine is same as this but the older green version and it lives on a steel stand I made up: This is the drum sander I'm looking at (same as Perry's, just diffrent badge on it) In reguards to the bandsaw, a lot of reviews I've read do complain about the difficultry of changing the blade and the bench and a couple other things as well like switch needing replacement, missing parts and having to buy things to make it usable. Wiring issues if you live in non 220/240v zone. None of that deters me if its as good as everyone says. If you're cutting veneer on it when I struggle to cut fingerboard blanks on mine, then its pretty good. When I say struggle, it means if I had a good saw, I could get three for the two im getting at the moment

Hopefully you pick up some good scores at this moving sale. A bloke I work with goes to lots if these and gets some great stuff at redicilous prices. Thanks for the comments on the bandsaw, in a couple months I plan to buy a second one for resaw purposes and the laguna keeps popping up as an option. I know what you mean about seeing something that is too good to pass on, I was at the tool shop the other day and there's a twin drum sander that's been on my mind ever since, I just cannot justify the purchase for another couple months (have other financial needs to meet until then) but I can't stop thinking about it! Congrats on the new drum sander, hope its everything you need it to be

Talk to us about your bandsaw Now you've had it for a while, are you still happy with it? Any issues/complaints/regrets? Would you buy that one again or go with a different one if you git to do it over?

My first Warlock was a class axe plywood one. Black with the black painted neck, so it was probably a 87 build and I got it second hand in 1990. I thought it was the best guitar ever. I'm glad I grew up! It was Poison for me back then that made me want the warlock. Before that I had a neckthru Japanese Canora. Way better guitar than the plywood warlock, but I didn't see it that way as a teenager!