GuitarGuy
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Posts posted by GuitarGuy
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I noticed this on ebay and i figured I'd wait and snipe it. My girlfriend called and we got talking and I forgot about it. All I can say is CRAP!
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Hey slup, i´m from argentina too! if you are into this maybe we can exchange some material or at lesta talk a little bit, eh? giimme your mail if interested!
Por que estoy hablando en ingles, a todo esto??? jajajaja
see ya!
I just put up a strat styled one on my site. It's kind of my own breed but it will give you some basic dimensions.
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you don't solder it to the bridge.rather ,you drill a tiny hole from the control cavity to the bridge stud hole(close to the bottom of the hole)and you simply insert the bare wire and insert the stud...making sure to compress the wire between the stud and the wall of the stud hole
When I built mine I soldered to the inside of the stud. (alot of them have a hollow depression on the bottom) The reason being is that if the wire ever gets corroded you will have to pull the stud, but with the soldered it wil be less likely to do so.
You can then just thread in the wire and push it down. Make sure that stud is drilled a little deeper to accomodate the wire at the bottom.
And contrary to what was said. If a bridge is grounded its not necessarily you thats grounding it but your body is absorbing the interference. If you have a potential difference between you and the guitar. Like for instance a reversed polarity wall socket. IT CAN KILL YOU!!! SO if you ever get a shock from your guitar stop and figure out the problem!
I put a fuse on my ground to the bridge. Its not a guarentee that it will save you. But its better than nothing. I usually go with a low value fuse. (only taks 40mA or so to stop your heart granted there is a lot of resistance bettween your hands and your heart.)
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is it at all possible to use newspaper to cover a guitar, with lots of clear over it of course? just an idea for a leftover guitar...thnx
do a search on comic book. There's some info there.
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I am canadian lol, My name is Sandy (short for Alexander). I'm 25 and have been building things since I could walk. The coolest thing ive build to date was a 1/4 scale catapult. It could fling a golf ball about 600 feet, but I digress.
Growing up I was always surrounded by auto body so I kinda grew into that. I've got 3 years of mechanical engineering and decided that wasn't "hands on" enough for me. So I studied the machining trade and there is very little call for that kind of work here so by some strange twist of fate I now am a tech support agent for Windows XP. Go figure
I've been building guitars since high school and am back at it now after a 5 year break while I was in university. My first productions since starting back up should be done in the next few months and I will post them on my site when pictures are available.
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Thank you.
Unfortunately I am not able to order things online, otherwise I would have done it till now.
But it is some useful info on that site. One could learn a thing or two about decal paper. The prices, for example - 18 US bucks for a 20 sheets pack of waterslide paper??!
These dudes have one helluva huge sense of humour.
20 sheets will do a lot of guitars. I think you might want to look into a job first if 18 bucks is too rich for ya. No offense but thats pretty cheap.
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Actually, I was shaping my neck with a belt sander, got it a little too close to my t shirt, and VIOLA! I was shirtless in the blink of an eye! LOL. Luckily it was only a white hanes shirt and not one of my cool concert shirts.
Careful man! There is a BIG difference between a die grinder and a belt sander. You got lucky. Ive caugt my finger in the disk attachment and sanded my fingernail off past the cuticle IT WAS NOT FUN!!!!
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well, Parker guitars uses a thin reinforcement of ccarbon-glass-epoxy reinforcement on both the neck and the fretboard... maybe that kind of idea would work?
if you could make a very precise wood carving, and put some composite over it, it might work on the warpage issues and such...
my 2c...
Not quite, their fretboards on the Fly's are carbon, no wood, the frets are baked into the carbon laminate in an autoclave after being laid up in a mold, this is why they use SS frets, because it's near impossible to replace their frets so they just can't be something that wears out quickly.
A thin composite will be strong sure, but will do nothing in the way of wear resistance, Carbon cloth layed up will only be as wear resistant as the epoxy resin it's impregnated with. Most epoxy resins aren't that hard.
You have a point. The epoxy would wear really bad. The only thing I can think of is adding frets lol. And we're now back to square one. Perhaps machined from another composite. Like some nylons can be more wear resistant than steel albeit about as expensive too. But then you run into the cost of machining if you dont have the facilities.
I think I know why the idea was abandoned!
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i own a gibson les paul standard which came factory prepped with a monstrous glitter job, i mean huge glitter squares packed together. I wondered how i could do a finish like this.
Any chance you could post some pics of the guitar?
I just LOVE sparkle-finish Les Pauls !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know they produced a 'Les Paul Standard Sparkle' which you could get in Red,Blue,Green and Diamond i think (which was a Silver with multi-coloured sparkle).
I've also seen a special run of Silver Sparkle Standards that they made for Guitar Centre (i think?) which had really large glitter particles.
Yeah the whole sprinkle idea does not work.... but I have has luck using the glitter that girls use for their face these days, its almost a powder. It will spray mixed with urethane clear just remember a little goes a long way.
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A couple things come to mind.
Fluke ukuleles use molded plastic fingerboards with integral frets. With nylon strings, fret wear isn't a problem. Back in the '50s/'60s they used to make lots of plastic ukuleles and small guitars with molded frets and nylon strings.
Be aware that molding/casting processes can be inexact. You can have shrinkage issues if the materials have a big temperature change in processing or if they give off byproducts (water, solvents) from chemical reactions.
Epoxies cure with an exothermic reaction, they make heat. Depending on how the heat escapes or is trapped, when the part is in the mold, you can get warpage or springback issues. With this thick-thin-thick-etc profile of the stepped frets, you might get some bow, waviness, or local sinking.
All of those problems can be overcome, but, it might take a good bit of tweaking.
Visually, the stepped frets look cool.
I think the shrinkage that epoxies have is negligable compared to the fluctuations in wood. THe accuracy of the average hand made guitar fretboard is probably +-.020 or more. I highly doubt the need for accuracy of a mold would be that great. You're overengineering it a bit.
The hardest part of this would be to create the master with a radius. Becaus you have to cut angled and curved at the same time (3axix) a cnc could mill this but you be hard pressed to do it from a comventional milling process.
The only thing I can think of is a variation of the router radius jig in the reference section. If you made the track so it stepped that could allow for the andgle and curvatue at the same time.
I definitely want to play with this idea.
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Hmmm, all good advice. I think I'll go with a 1 piece korina body, from A&M and a bookmatched or one piece top; after seeing that curly Bubinga top I couldn't help myself. Smitten. So, curly Bubinga it shall be! I'll also go with a quartersawn laminated korina neck, just for the purpose of stabillity, and a Brazilian rosewood fretboard. It seems that with a beefy 3/4" Bubinga top it would help counter any minor attempt at warping down the road (I hope). I've had several one piece guitar bodies in the past and they all seemed puperior in resonance and sustain. Mojo or not the one piece body placebo has made an impact on me. I've played around with the idea of a two piece body but...maybe next time. It will have a clear Nitro or oil finish. Possibly lightly stained. The body will be chambered. Any reason why cutting an "F" hole, or similar, in the top would kill it? Anyway, if anyone can see any reason why these woods shouldn't marry then speak now or forever hold your peace...
As the saying goes "to each his own". It'll probably turn out great for ya. Be sure to post some progrss pics! Im looking forward to seeing it!
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Hello Everyone
I'm new to this website and to guitar construction all together, though I've been repairing and designing guitar for a couple of years. My main discussion topic is on HVLP units. I 've always found finishing a guitar the hardest and most time consuming part of the job. I'venoticed a couple of DIY stores in the UK selling these units http://www.earlex.co.uk/html/menus_html/hvlp.htm. They seem to be excellent units on paper for guitar finishing, and cost effective, thats the accounts degree talking! I was just wondering if anyone had experimented with these units or something like it. Also I've noticed from my work in academia, a lot of new and interesting poly composites starting to break through into the commerical market and I was wondering if anyone had used them in the construction of guitars? Anyway, great website, very informative and seems to have a good communities. Im a sort of academic at the moment, with most of my research in helping small businesses expand and computing. I'm going to enjoy reading and getting involved over the coming time. It will be nice to be able to talk guitars with people and not regarded as strange!!
Peace
GraniteRock
Scotland
LGM had a good post on them, check it out with the search.
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Now that were done crapping on a guy for having an idea. How bout getting back to the point.
I've tried the sticker paper under urethane clear. It stays dry relative to the clear surrounding it. And takes a lot of coats that "soaks" into the paper. It does not look nice at all. The transparency film works to an extent and even better is to get some items made from vinyl. These leave noticable ridges that need to be sanded down and polished. (Not such an issue lacquers cuz it needs to be done anyway)
The best, hands down is hobby decal transfer paper for making your own decals. this stuff is really thin and needs little or no leveling.
And contrary to the instructions on the Decal paper. It does not need a top coat if the ink you use is not water soluble. If you draw a decal with permanent marker it wil dry and not lift when you put it in water. But I don't know what effects solvents will have on the marker. (The top coat you apply is lacquer based so it cant be that bad )
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Check your local hobby shop. You'd be suprised what they got.
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Nope, air. I don't have the patience or smarts to do anything rational like keep myself out of emminent peril. It's a full 2 horsepower with no stops, limits or respect for human flesh. I'd be a blood donor if I could ever get over half-full on the dipstick.
I run the compressor at 90lbs, no more. Doubles as a way to torque lug nuts without a torque wrench. Just use the impact wrench.
Sorry to hear the blood donor thing is not working out for ya
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Tee-shirt, my butt! It got ahold of my welding leathers with a 2 horse ARO die grinder and made mincemeat out of my right glove, little finger and a $410.00 silicon-bronze valve body. And the right sleeve of my leathers. Ought to be illegal for anyone under 400 pounds to buy one.
That musta been electric? Mine stops because the air has no torque. Or maybe yours just has more torque. You may want to look into that. With mine you get cut up a little bit but it doesn't have the power to do much more.
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Guitar Guy, you should try using those AL bits for what they were intended for instead of wood! You think they are lethal on wood try em on non-ferrous metal! They are brutal beasts! Should be illegal!
Ever get the bit wrapped in your T-shirt? Dont that a few times too.
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We this isn't a how to per se but heres some pics of the unit I made for my Fender Newporter
This was made using a mic that clips on to your lappel ,some square brass hobby tubing and a bit of plexiglass.
Its taped to the top bracing using double backed tape. This makes it totally reversible.
The toggle switch is for switching between the piece of crap piezo bridge pickup (without an equalizer they sound like crap) and this mic. The mic picks up the full spectrum of sound that the piezo misses. Sounds really good and considering the mic was a yardsale bargin it was cheap. Those mics usually retail for about 5o bucks.
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You haven't built a table? LoL Yeah that wasn't clear for someone you hasn't built one. When you build a table you have to clip the table top on using blocks of wood that have a small tennon the fits into the side of the table legs. (that doesn't make any sense either so just watch the new yankee workshop to get what i mean)
My point was that aluminum would not be affected by temp as much as wood.
Man this thread went on a tangent pretty quick,eh?
i have built a table.
"that doesnt make any sense" damn right it doesnt
i have no idea what "yankee workshop" is
does wood shrink/expand with heat?
A lot! When you put down a wood floor you have to leave a 1/2" gap all the way around at the walls thats how much it can expand!
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Contact the maint. people in charge of your dorm. You have a VERY serious problem that could hurt people running hairdryers, irons, hotplates (I know, don't tell) or anything else using the three-prong grounded cord. Most commercial builings use 208 VAC 3-phase as their incoming power to eliminate transformers for lighting and when a neutral comes loose in this wiring configuration. grounds become conductors and 120 volt outlets can put out over 200 volts, under the right circumstances. Bad deal!!! Could just be that one outlet, also.
You could use a fused power bar. That could pervent serious injury in the interm.
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You can machine a piece of metal (Aluminum) to a sliding fit which is a tolerance of .0005 to .001 inch. And its funny... that fit does not change dramatically with temperature.
Now in a piece of wood a close tolerance is 1/16 of an inch which is .0625 inches. and the reason is that wood size fluctuates greatly with temperature. This is the same reason why you cant solidly fix a top to a wooden table. It has to float or the table will split
of course the fit wont change because all the peices of aluminium will change size by the same proportion because they are undergoing the same temp change. but the overall size of the peices will change. that said i know that with the average temp fluctuations in day to day life (night/day, summer/winter) will have an allmost
unmeasurable effect on size steels have a CLTE of between .000009" and .000012" in/in
eg if CLTE = .000012 10C change =.00012" size change per inch correct me if im wrong but i think in guitar builing this is negligable
and the second paragraph i dont fully understand
but im pretty sure my tables dont "float"
You haven't built a table? LoL Yeah that wasn't clear for someone you hasn't built one. When you build a table you have to clip the table top on using blocks of wood that have a small tennon the fits into the side of the table legs. (that doesn't make any sense either so just watch the new yankee workshop to get what i mean)
My point was that aluminum would not be affected by temp as much as wood.
Man this thread went on a tangent pretty quick,eh?
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Im just not going to quote, lol.
I was thinking magnesium. Light that and we got the hindenburg all over again!
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My guess would be to rout out a slot about 1 to 1-1/2" wide and deep and fit in a piece of wood (glued in of course). Go from trem hole to HB hole (left to right in your pic). Since it's painted once you redrill it for the stud and refinish it nobody would ever notice.
Make sense??
I'm with you on this one. If refinishing is not an option. Finish the break. Glue it back in. Redrill an oversized hole (not too big but big enough to be covered by the trem) Then put a large plug in. Then redrill to proper size for the stud.
Hope that made sense.
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So then why don't we all just make guitars from aluminum and acrylic resin and forget about wood altogether?
Actually aluminum and acrylic would be incedibly stable materials however they are not as pretty and are much more expensive than wood.
Been thinking of building an mdf one but thats in the distant future
Omg I Can't Believe I Missed This!
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
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Now that I look at it closer I see what you mean. It does look "off". Bah 10 bucks is 10 bucks tho lol. Anyway can't win em all.