GuitarGuy

That home made one looks nice Guitar Guy, but  Iwould haved re-enforced the single tube design from the back brace to the front router and stylus.  I realy don't know if it would be necessary, but I like sturdy looking machines...

And 'frenzy uses the round bit with a round stylus if I'm not wrong.  Which is the set up I'm designing.  As soon as I get it finished, I will send it to Brian to place it in the advanced section.

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Thanks, And I was thinking the same thing about re-enforcing the single tube. Just messing around with it i can see some side to side play. I'm thinking an x across the span between the side rollers might do the trick and still allow it to pivot correctly.

What bits would be used with one of these to get an exact copy of a neck? As do u guys use drimils with them or routers?

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Mine is a $30 1/4inch shank laminite trimmer. and right now i have just a straight bit in it. Guitarfrenzy could most likely give more input on which bit works better.

What if it was done with a clear piece of lexan backed with a mirrored mylar and the led shining form the side.

Much like my PC case

This is the one that My old man and I finished building a few weeks ago. I've not yet had the chance to prectice with it and get it dialed in but when I do I'll post some pictures of it.

The rollers are just $2 bearings and shimmed with washers. Every roller is adjustable for about 1/2 inch of travel. This way it is easier to level if the tracks are not perfect.

We've basically just made our own pillow blocks. Total cost was around $100CDN, that was just for bearings and the router. The meatal was just scrap we had laying around.

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I've been l;ooking at getting this one:

http://www.wood-carver.com/

Problem is I emailed them and never got a response, so how do I trust them with the rest of the transaction?

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9" Universal Model - $ 2750.00 might just be cheaper to buy a welder and build your own.

This is a link to Kathy Matsushita's page. If you haven't happened upon her site yet. She is a school teacher that builds guitars during the summers. She really is an inspiration to all. And shows us that anyone can build a guitar with a little practice.

Scarf joint jig

I've been experimenting with UHMW. It has lubricating properties much like graphtec.

UHMW

Busy bee tools sells longer pieces that can be fed through a planer.

Busy Bee

It's very hard to cut this stuff though. It NEEDS to be clamped to a jig when cutting on a tablesaw. It's just so slippery.

As far as sound goes I find it is more like a fretted note. Its not that bright sound that stands out its more mellow.

This stuff can be sanded to shape and then polished to a mirror shine.

Edit: BTW soapstone IMO is just way too soft.

Bandsaw,Router,Sanding Drum in a drill press,Spoke shave,Scraper and Care.

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Pnumatic die grinder and an aluminium cutting bit. Stepping up to a fine rotary file for finish work. And a couple hand rasps to make everything even.

Search search and more search.

LGM has a wicked tut on painting in general and he lists pros and cons on many types of spray equipment.

i no im going to prolly get a lot of crap about this but i tried to search multiple times and i couldnt find anything (kept giving me an error)

now i want to build a pedal (any type, distortion, wah, phase, ect.) but i dont want to go ordering things off the internet unless i have to. i dont really have any experiance with electronical stuff but i feel confident enough that if some gave me a diagram and told me wut everything was i would be able to build it.

my main goal is to try to get everything from radio shack or some place simular to those. if anyone here has ever made a pedal from just radio shack parts or no of a thread where someone has done please point me to it.

i might get the tweak-o (forgot where i saw it) because i heard its easey and the instructons looked easy. i do have a soldering iron and i do no how to use it

any help would be greatly appreceated

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I realized that the headstock logo is hard to make out in the photos so here is the graphic:

Just thought I would give those interested a closer look (some of you may even know where the concept comes from  ) .  Thanks!

Best Regards,

Mike.

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Thats the dark crystal font? I loved that movie as a kid.

Well im painting my friends strat right. I lay down the primer. Inspect it and see there is a few little dings in the sealer. Should i sand the primer off and fill the dings with sealer, or should i fill them in with paint somehow?

Im also under a tight deadline

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sold color? If so just use a 2 part fiberglass body filler. If your really in a pinch you can fill it with a bit of epoxy and level.

Anyone ever hear of pressed back chairs? No, it wont pop back out. We have one of those chairs upstairs that washed up on shore. If that dosen't mess it up nothing will.

I don't think people truly understand how expensive it gets for foreigners to order from StewMac.    Besides that, they won't ship CA over the border.

Last time I had to order a bit from StewMac, it was the binding pilot bit.  The cheap one without a bearing.  I don't remember the exact final total, but somewhere around $50 CDN, which is almost double the 'list' price when you include duty and so forth.

There needs to be a Canadian StewMac distributor.  If I had the resources, I'd consider contacting them myself. 

Greg

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CA is basically super glue. Epoxy would be easier to come by here. 30 minute epoxy should do the trick. If you are fussy about color try checking out the wal-mart flower section. They have 2 part polyurethane resin that is 100% clear. Its called "Garden Splender: Quick Water" Its for making fake water in silk flower arangements. Its basically CA because it's printed on the box.

*NOTE* CA has harmful effects and is known to cause birth defects in the state of California. (or thats what the warning label says) I'm assuming it has the same effects in other parts of the world.

And just a side note I rarely buy things from stew mac. Grossly overpriced and most items can be made or sourced from other places. The exceptions are the very specific items like fret saws or frets themselves.

For example my fret saw is an irwin thin-kerf crosscut saw that i bought and block sanded until the kerf was .023" probly not as good as a purpose made one but it does the trick.

I'm still working on the solidbody acoustic electric thing, and I'm trying to figure out a good way to run a ground. I'm using bridge pins instead of a string through, so grounding to a ferrule is out.

Any ideas?

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What about my fav....stained glass copper tape? You can get 1/4 inch or smaller than push a piece up th hole and when the string is pushed in it will be forced against it. Just a thought.

Edit: Just thought tho you may have probs when changing strings.

Just FYI to enyone else building this. You can't really unspool the wire like the tire is representing. The reason is, the spool it too heavy and the wire can't provide enough force to turn it before breaking. It's best to put the spool straigt up on the floor and let it unravel itself off the top. This way there is no tension.

Edit: And i know what you're going to say....what about the picture above. It appears to be a heavier wire. Even so, once it gets spinning it remains spinning and when you stop the spool....same deal keeps spinning and then you have a mess of tangled wire. (this is from experience)

Wouldn't this have problems with uneven wire tension?

(talking about the Lego version)

Pete

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Possibly, but thats the whole point of hand wound pickups. The variation.

so im guessing that £51 wasnt a bad price for this?

I paid $10 for a 'Raven' once, looked just like yours......I paid too much.

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Silvertone!!!! My best friend has one exactly the same lol

Its an offshoot of Danelectro. Made for sears in the 60-70's

If the guitar is just for yourself, plug the pickup route and reroute.

But after that its a solid finish for you.

I've been messin' around with building a wah pedal completely from scratch this weeked. Designed, etched and populated a PCB for it Friday afternoon (Colorsound inductorless wah). By Saturday evening, I had the bulk of the mechanics built - minus the pot gear arrangement and the bypass switch. By the end of Sunday, I finished everything but the bypass switch mounting bracket. Works and sounds nice.

Check it out: http://www.diyguitarist.com/DIYStompboxes/DIY-Wah.htm

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Any chance on posting a schematic on that one?

Good lord! You mean I was actually RIGHT when I was trying to make a joke?

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If you spray urethanes there is a uv clear from Alsa. Its made for heat reactive finishes but would work for this too I'd assume.

Sun Screen Clear

Finally done it! Link to build your own. Its just the basic crank version but im sure you guys can adapt the motor to it. Maybe I'll write that one later.

Lego Pickup Winder

How do i change the size of the file. i want to put the pics on photobucket or whatever.

k thanks

charlie G

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Download the trial of photoshop I believe it has the "save for web" feature still intact

With that you can change the size and quality of the picture.

correct me if im wrong.

Because he'es thinking,  "oh metal, metal must make things bright"

Am I wrong?  Diddn't think so

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Any ferrous material will disrurb the magnetic field of a coil and that will cause fluctuations in the current it produces (or simply a different tone) hence why it sounds different in wes's case.

Brighter? Dont know about that but there will be a difference. Pickups only respond to magnetic, metalic objects or a current flowing near the coil.

One might argue that pickups are microphonic at times but most likely that can be attributed to movement within the pickup or slack in mounting springs etc. Take all metal out of the equation and you will find the pickup unresponsive. (but that is really hard to do) The multimeter does not pick it up. Maybe with high gain. Ill hafta try that.