GuitarGuy

You are correct. I should have metioned that I needed 2D not 3D. We are well aware that it is harder and more time consuming than it looks and I should have said so.

Thanks to all for pointing it out.

Chris

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I was assuming when you said CAM you meant 3d which is extremely time intesive as you know. If someone gives that away for 2 bodies they probably didn't make the file which means someone's work is getting ripped off. I have some 3d files of my guitars that i wouldn't part with at all except for the right price.

I took your first post to be a little absurd and hence my post. But now that you say 2d, I can see where you're coming from, Sorry if I offended you.

Mmmhmm...ok if you can afford the machine you can afford to hire someone/learn cad.

Real beer^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Good plan, for what its worth the right bit will make a ll the difference.

Scale length = distance from the nut to the bridge saddles. If a shorter neck is put in the scale length is therefore shortened and you have a mess to fix up because the frets on the neck are set for a 25.5" scale. You just cant intonate it right after that.

Short story....It'll sound like a POS

To actually answer the question the bearing on the bit follows the template until it reaches the bottom of the template. From there it just follows the edge left by the previous cut.

The bit looks like this

I would suggest a thicker template made from 3/4" MDF or plywood. This way the first cut with the router is not so deep as to bog down the router.

You could do as he says clear out some material with a forsener (i know thats spelled wrong) bit. I dont bother personally. Its just as fast to use the router.

Well, actually it is 15 scfm, so I dont know what I have gotten myself into LOL.

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LOTSA AIR!!! Now you can try shaping a neck with a die grinder. Its the only way I do it.

1981 Daytona 500.

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LMAO!

Anything from here

Killerpaint

Anything that leaves a lack of adjustment is just bad. You wouldn't build a neck with no truss rod so why put a bridge on that is "barely" adjustable. Sure they look clean but playability is more important as I see it.

just my buck-O-five

Lovekraft consider that pic stolen. lol thats awesome!

Perry, I really like it, very unique! But Swedish luthier had me with the aluminum inlays

MILLING MACHINE!!!!!!!!! Bar none

Im thinking on painting a floyd rose, but Im a little worried on the effect. I have read this http://users.pandora.be/marnix.ghesquiere/ondex.html

But Powder coating is not only expensive but hard to find without having to send it to the UK. So this leaves me with one solution, I could prime it with epoxy primer, then paint it with some sort of  paint (forget what its called) that can take the abuse of you hand constantly touching it.

but what Im wondering do any of you think that epoxy primer would alter the sound at all? and/or is there another way I could paint a floyd rose without having to worry about the paint fading and peeling?

Thanks!

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You're better off leaving it as it is. I have yet to see a paint that will hold up to that kind of application.

Perhaps getting it chromed but they have a tendency to lose small parts in the vat.

A one piece body is more important when using a transparent finish and no decorative top, where the joints and grain differences are visible.  With a solid finish, there's not much reason not to save some money using two or three pieces, which is often more stable anyway.

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^ I agree with him. Theres a lot of voodoo it the guitar world.

Prime example.....tap tuning. My goodness that idea is just plain absurd.

Take this example. Tap a solid piece of brass. You get a lovely thud. Turn it on a lathe to the shape of a bell and you get something that rings loud and clear.

Now yes the vibrating guitar body affects the strings but that falls more toward the density of the wood. Density affects sound transmission. And no wood is uniform. So gluing a blank is every bit as variable as a solid piece. Its all the same in my eye.

Sweet. I'd love to see it

Just a constructive suggestion. One f-hole style or the other would look good. but the combination throws everything off. Symmetry is what it needs.

As far as getting good inexpensive tools. I found estate auctions to be excellent. A friend of the family picked up a cast iron belt drive tablesaw with all the fixins for $75 CAD. Sure it had a little rust but its nothing that a little oil and sandpaper cant fix.

What would be handy is if they had miter boxes out ther for 13 degree cuts. cause I know you can get like dovetail saw miterboxes that have the usual 90, 45, 30, 60 degree cutting guides... but i'm guessing 13 degrees would be a hard one to find lol

Chris

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Build one....

I found this today and it looks cool. Just thought I would share.

Thickness sander

Is there a spring of wire on the front side holding them in? If so you can pull that out and the saddles and their respective screws will just fall right out. I'd take a picture but im at work *sigh* I hate this fricken job.

thanks

I think I want to repair them even temporarily to route a new master template, but how could I repair them?

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A good 2-part body filler. (make sure you wear a mask when reshaping)

I saw these over on the Dean forum. Man they are cool. Not really my style, but cool.

Anyone know where you can buy the parts that make the knobs stay on the pots? Like the Ibanez ones that just slide on (not the ones that you need to screw on the side to keep in place). For like if you wanted to make your own knobs with plastic, or turned wood, etc.?

Chris

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A wood knob with the correct size hole drilled can be a press-on as you are describing. No real bushing needed. The key to it is the hole size. you want the hole in the knob to be maybe .001-.003" undersized for the pot shaft. It will then be a press fit without splitting the wood/plastic,etc. I'm like you, I don't like the look of set screws.

The two things you need for this is a good set of calipers and a good set of drillbits like this

That is by far the best tool in the shop (next to the mill). You can make any hole a sliding, close, or press fit.

I think Perry came up with that one lonnng ago.