GuitarGuy
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Posts posted by GuitarGuy
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Im going to use the polyester resin i think. tinted blue.
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I used regular bleach mixed with hydrogen peroxide on lacewood it worked pretty good.
Its easier to buy stuff specifically designed for wood at the hardware store. That being said, When you bleach wood it loses most of its grain pattern and looks pretty bland IMO.
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Put damp cloths on the concave side. With that side up use a heat gun or iron to make some steam with the wet cloth. Once it is close keep more damp rags on it while you weigh it with somthing heavier. It will come out for the most part. Just takes time.
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The neck is now finished. And if this works out I'm going to try a basswood one next. The neck is just so light. The whole guitar is going to be incredibly light I can't wait to hear it.
I fretted the neck today and carved the back as well. And I made an explorer template and glued up pine blank for it.
Bendin up a bit of fretwire in the home made bender.
I made this block for keeping the individual pieces of fretwire organized.
And heres my caul i made a while back for pressing in the frets. Im using the drill press for this because I havn't gotten around to making a hole in the bottom of my arbour press for the caul. I chopped of a sliver of my radius block for the caul.
I started carving the neck with my weapon of choice
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Well I got around to milling some radius blocks today.(necessity is the mother of invention) Its just wood this time out but judging buy the results I can see aluminum ones on the horizon.
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Got a bit of work done today. It seems that everything I did today there was somthing else that needed to be done first before I could continue.
Broken bandsaw blade, cluttered router table, out of double stick tape, the arse that parked behind me at wal-mart when I went to get tape, just to name a few.
Last night I glued up the fretboard. Its flamed maple and has flame all down its length.
I spent most of the day making 10" radius blocks on the mill. They turned out great!
You'll notice I haven't carved the back yet, I don't carve it untill the neck is complete. This way the neck stays put for any operation like radiusing , fretting, inlaying, etc. If you use some double stik tape on the back of the neck it will stay put as well.
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Use a feeler gague. if you don't have them a .09 or a .010 string will do.
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Ya beat me to the punch pete.I have some 2 part polyester resin thats going to be the finish. I'm toying with the idea of tinting it blue.
The fretboard will be flame maple with a brass or aluminum nut ( haven't decided yet)
Well, as I understand It must be built with construction grade 2x4's maybe I'm stretching the rules with mdf. Some ply could have an interesting effect when carved. But the carve top is going to be very shallow, more like a large bevel. Might not lend itself well.
Im not buying ay lumber for this build, its just junk found in the shop.
Never thought of the weight of the mdf? THe neck is REALLY light so balance could be an issue. The idea was a pine body and a mdf cap. But i might rethink that. We'll see.
It's not a soft pine tho. As far as pine goes. I think beause the moisture content is low.
Oh and the pickups are going to be rewound on the lego winder if I get time.
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This suggestion is free, and I'm only throwing this idea out there because I'm not going to be able to compete in this competition
...beer bottle cap inlays. It doesn't get much classier than that. Good luck.peace,
russ
Cool idea... but i got another one im going to try. Maybe bottlecap tone and volume tho.
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For the 2x4 special I have decided to use a piece of 40+ year old pine from the attic of our old garage.
The two strips are oak for a bit of strength. I found them in the scap bin (trying to keep in the spirit of the competition and still have some kind of support)
The Neck seems pretty solid but who knows, eh? It's going to be an explorer with a carved top done with highly figured 5A MDF. Maybe a PVC binding, we'll see.
http://www.airos-guitars.com/images/pineguitar/pine4.jpg
http://www.airos-guitars.com/images/pineguitar/pine3.jpg
http://www.airos-guitars.com/images/pineguitar/pine2.jpg
http://www.airos-guitars.com/images/pineguitar/pine1.jpg
http://www.airos-guitars.com/images/pineguitar/pine6.jpg
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I'm sorry, that wasn't very productive of me. But I don't recall saying the idea sucked. It just has too many moving parts for me. Heavy modifications, and just not fun to install in general. The linear idea is cool but like was said earlier it adjusts the scale length. There is never a guarentee that its going to come back to the full scale length. At least with a pivot trem the intonation change is lessened by the arc of the pivot and you have a visual representation of what is the normal location by the parallelness of the bridge to the body when the trem is in a resting position.
There is another way that i have done up in cad right now, METAL MATT has seen it. But it is by no means perfect so im not going to flaunt the idea in an open forum.
As far as commercial interests...If you patented it you have interests in selling it. No one gets a patent for fun. I can see if someone saw it on your guitar and said hey where did you get that? Then its different.
But its not my forum so thats admin's prerogative.
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Is it just me or does this seem like a commercial plug in a non commercial part of the forum?
The idea itself is overkill. There are other ways to do the same thing as you are trying to do with this trem with way less work and modifications.
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Just for the controller and steppers with enough power to run a wood cutting cnc you're looking at at least $399 US. No such thing as a cheap cnc....there is cheaper, like <$1500. But not cheap.
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Correct me if im wrong but I don't see any logos posted on this forum? The best brands has had them for eons.....I don't really think fender or gibson really cares about an internet forum..... And you know as well as I do that litigation on somthing as silly as this wouldn't hold any water at all in a court. Especially not in canada, where you cant even get pinned for distributing copyrighted mp3's
I don't know who pissed in your cornflakes but Chill out !
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ummmm how do i get the saddle of?
That wire comes out of the holes that it is pushed into. Just pull it out and the saddles will just fall out. Oh, and i should add, make sure the guitar is properly intonated before putting anything on the saddle to keep it from rattling.
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Its not like we made any negative comment
Well you did laugh at him for being nice.....not exactly negative but rude none the less.
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This is kinda typical of PG. A Newbie offers somthing to be nice (however probably not needed) and everyone craps on them for trying to be a contributor.
Couldn't you just say "thanks for the gesture but its available on this website"... or "thanks, for tha act of good will but we usually make our own necks and put our name in them"
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If it were the saddles you would just need to file the slot so it slants away from the edge like the left picture.
By what you describe i think you're probably right and its the saddle, make sure its seated into the bridge. On the tune-O-matic I have here, the saddles need to be pressed pretty hard to get them to sit down in the slot. After that a little dab of clear RTV silicone should do the trick to just keep it from vibtrating. I would put one dab under where the screw head rests on the bridge and another where the wire is hitting the saddle. Like I said eariler tho just a little dab the size of the head of a pin so no one will see it.
Unless anyone else reading this has a better idea.
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Im more partial to decal printing. You can get decal paper from hobby shops. Once its prined on the paper you have to seal it with a sealer. The end product is exactly the same as the decals that come with plastic models.
The bonus of this paper is it conforms to curves better than the transparency film and it is very thin (thinner than a cigarette paper) so your clear will need very minimal leveling before buffing.
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I'm very doubtfull that the noise is coming from the saddle rattling, theres a lot of downward force from the strings to hold them in place and that wire is effectively a spring so im doubtfull with that as well.
This is most likely the problem, the one on the left is a proper saddle, the one on the right has a saddle that the slot is improperly angled, the string vibrates inside the saddle slot because there is nothing supporting it up to the edge.
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silicone is a non permanant fix. silicone will stick until you peel it off. And im not saying soak it im just saying put a tiny dab on it like the head of a pin or a little more than that to stiffle any vibration.
Are you sure its the screws and not the roll of of the saddles. you want the breaking point (the highest point of the saddle that the strings rest on) to be on the edge of the bridge toward the neck. If the saddle groove is higher on the opposite side it will buzz in the groove.
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hey all i have a prob with my epi casino two of the screws on the saddle (slidy things) vibrate against the wire thingy on the bridge does anyone no how i can fix it? thnx all
little dab of silicone will go a long way, use it sparingly.
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Anyhow, you might benefit from reading Melvin Hiscock's "Make Your Own Electric Guitar."
...I wonder how much money we generate for mr. hiscock anually.
A lot, ever notice that you don't see it much on ebay tho?
...beer bottle cap inlays. It doesn't get much classier than that. Good luck.
Block Inlays - Ready Cut.
in Inlays and Finishing Chat
Posted
I noticed the canadian flag. Grizzly dosn't ship to canada.