Marzocchi705

You get the Black Beuty 2p'up and 3p'up versions. Linky it shows the 3pu, but you get a 2pu version, as it says.

I used to play alto sax when i was young. Now i play guitar. I nearly started to learn bagpipes with my cadets pipes and drum band, but the teacher is a complete [insert bad word that you cant use here], so that was the end of that.

I really like the first design, its the kind of bass i would go for (if i were to go for a bass that is). Keep up the good work!

My god that wood is gourgous!!

If it was anyother colour than that i would have seriously considerd it, my epi studio is that colour, and i dont really want another one the same colour. There darn nice players tho. Now that Tele neck, how much do you want for it? Whos the manufactur?

What colour is this Lespaul?

7string baritone? What will you tune that to? Anyway, this looks cool, its making me think about making one instead of the soloist i have pland.

Do you have acces to a drill press at all? I did all tha cavitys on my build with a drill press and a chisel, usind the drill to remove the bulk of material. If you dont have a drill press, follow this. Yes, lightly clamp your neck exactly where you want it to be, and make a dark line where it should be. Push your chisle down along the inside of the lines you just made, al the way around, dont push too hard just asfar as you can go with out use of a mallet. Then make the same depth of scorings parralel to the outer edge of the pocket, then make more lines at right angles to the last ones you made, you should have a grid pattern now. Carfully remove this material. it should have a small cavity depth of about 1mm, now mask your chisle to the depth you want, mine just so happend to be 19mm, and force it down about half that along the edges. Do exactly what you did to remove the top layer of wood, but at the depth that the sides now go down. Remove all the unwanted material. Next is the nerve racking thing for me, taking it down to final depth, repeat the last part to depth, but go extremely slow, you want a flat neck pocket not a crooked one. if you use the heel of the pocket as a guide, it should remain paralel through out. The reason i said to take 1mm out first, as it stops you from pulling out the wood from the top of your guitar, tear out. It happens all to often in my woodwork class, so this is what i tell people to do. Im not a teacher, i just found an effective way to do the job.

I should think that cutting off the shim would be ok, the nut on my LP goes into the neckwood like a housing joint. You will need a neck angle for the wrap around bridge.

6 String Violin? I like the idea of a freted violin, or atleast one with note markers. Matt, your violin looks cool, cant wait to see it finished.

Ooooh, nice pic RGGR, i wonder where you got that from.... Search, well serve, it will.

That is looking sooo cool, the pickup rings look more than cool, there fantastic, the really work well with the paintjob. Cant wait too see this finished. Great work!!

Toddler, you got my vote, that is one beutifull guitar man, i will be expecting more great guitars from you.

|-2 |-0 |-2 |-1 |-2 |-- this is also nice. |-2 |-3 |-2 |-4 |-2 |--

How long will the guitar be baked for?

Well if we storm the castle we'll find out, maby the WOD wares a TuTu

I agree with marksound, whatever im playing with, or playing thru, i still sound like i sound. I can give my Guitar, amp and effects to someone, they wont touch the knobs or anything, thele sound differant to me, all because of there playing style, its differant to mine. Yup, i was loving the sound of my cheap Encore strat copy, it cost about 60 buk, but it was mine and i loved it, it took me a while to warm to my LP. I think we all waste far too much time trying to sound like someone else, we sould waste that time trying to sound like ourselfs.

Brilliant, i love the way he looks so shmug at the end of the clip.

If you dont post pics, i think youl have an army of angry project guitar members storming the castle

Yeh, setch is right, it will only be rough sawn to size.

Just make sure the sides are flat and free from and contaminates (oils from the wood, dust ect) I used a plane and sanding blocks, you may find that you tend to bevel with a sanding block leaving a slighty curved face, the plane is alot easyer to leave a perfectly flat, level face for glueing. Other than that use plenty of glue and lots of clamps, as many as you can fit on. Wipe the exess glue as it comes out of the joint, leave it clamped for 24-48 hours and you should be fine.

My current project has cost me £36 in wood, and with al hardware it will come to around $200 although im not buying really good stuff yet, this body doesnt deserve it. My next guitar is going to cost £140 in wood, a big jump, but this is nice figured maple and mahogany, and its a neck thru so the blanks have to be bigger, Im going to be putting good hardware on this one, origianal floyd, bill lawrence p'ups. I dont expect to have much change out of £600 on this one. Its all about what you want, and what you can afford, i would love some 5A quilt maple, but i dont want to drop 140 just on a top, so i go with the less spectactular 3A stuff and work with it.

Seconded, I quit playing sax because of the pressure i got from my mum, it took the fun out of it, i havnt touched one in about 5 years. Let him choose what instrument he wants, then build it. But can you still build that power chord guitar for me In the shape of an SG please, in red.

Maiden - Just too be sure, i eased the screws back, didnt do any noticible differance, so i think there just a tad too long. Its just a standard tremolo, altho sometime in the future it was be rerouted for a floyd, but for now its a normal strat trem.

OK i did that and i still found it a bit too hard, i like to be able to bounce of the trem not have to force it much. So i took out the middle one again, and it felt the way i want it to, i did move the retaining claw nearer to the trem block. Heres how it is now. ?? Is this bad too ??