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dpm99

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Everything posted by dpm99

  1. dpm99
    I LOVE IT! I'll offer you $14 right now, which should buy enough 2X4's that you could do a small production run!! Ok, I'm kidding, but I really do love it. It's a real engineering triumph. Ok, fine. $22!!
  2. dpm99
    It's gone, bro. It happened to everybody. Forum errors. Just repost it.
  3. dpm99
    Poplar gets a bad rap. It's a good choice for a painted solid body. Strings are going to be a matter or preference and style. You have to adjust the setup based on the string gauge, but a FR can handle anything you're likely to use.
  4. dpm99
    Oh yeah. Wez is smart.
  5. dpm99
    This was my thought.
  6. dpm99
    Whatever, man. You know you practiced those riffs for a week before you made that video. I bet you had cue cards just to the side of the camera too.
  7. dpm99
    I was gonna give you a hard time about metal guys and playing in tune and whatnot, but then I watched the video, and realized I'm in no position to criticize your playing.
  8. dpm99
    Personally, I've never used a belt sander on a guitar without afterward having regretting doing so. Then again, I generally pick it up in a moment of frustration because the correct tool is taking too long.
  9. dpm99
    Yep. The right stain plus TruOil ought to get you there.
  10. dpm99
    Man, you're great at finishing. It's inspiring.
  11. dpm99
    OLF has a "Doofus of the Month" award. One of these days I'm bound to win.
  12. dpm99
    Thanks RAD.
  13. dpm99
    I may have made an idiotic mistake today. Fortunately, it wasn't on a guitar. Still... I laid a coat of waterborne lacquer over an oil based sanding sealer. I must add that the sanding sealer has had several weeks to cure. From what I've read, I think it might be ok, because I gave it a long time to cure between the coats. Anybody have any insight? I'd hate to have to sand through that coat, but I'll do it if I have to. Thanks. Next time I'll think through what I'm doing a little better.
  14. dpm99
    Eddie, it's a grounding issue, but I don't think it's what you're thinking. Obviously, you're getting a good connection between the tailpiece and the ground. If you weren't, touching the tailpiece wouldn't make the buzz go away. It's somewhere else in your wiring.
  15. dpm99
    My personal opinion on this topic is that with acoustic guitars, what matters most comes in the following order: 1) The skill of the luthier/company 2) The tonal goal of the luthier/company 3) Body shape 4) Wood I should add a caveat to say that I base this primarily on observational experience. I do think there's a significant difference between all Koa and Spruce/Mahogany, but I'd rather have something cheap from a highly skilled luthier than a custom shop exotic wood guitar from a production line. (No offense, zyonsdream. If you want to change my mind, feel free to send me a free Martin for, um...testing and stuff).
  16. dpm99
    You're making me wish I lived in Boston. I just wanted to say I reached this point myself once, but it didn't take long before the bug bit again. Don't be surprised if it happens to you too in a year or two. And there's no reason that being a lousy builder should make you stop. It's never stopped me.
  17. dpm99
    Consider the tailpiece and all the string as a long area through which electricity can flow freely. You connect that area to ground so any small amounts of electricity will be funneled to ground, rather than through whatever's running to your amp, which would create buzz. So you can connect ground to anyplace that connects electrically to your strings, which would probably include studs. You could actually connect a ground wire to the strings themselves, but that would be dumb.
  18. dpm99
  19. dpm99
    Is this what you mean? http://xhefriguitars.com/page7.html
  20. dpm99
    The colors clash. You have black against transblack and cream against white. To my eye, that's what looks wrong.
  21. dpm99
    This guys used a similar principle to make cauls: I think the Bowclamp is mostly just marketing, but I think the concept is a good one. He says he's discovered the perfect radius for equal pressure. I doubt it. It looks like about a 15' radius to me, but that's just a guess.
  22. dpm99
    Wow! Thanks for that. I know there are a lot of big, big Martin fans that might not find that information so novel, but I sure did. I was particularly fascinated to hear that they use Titebond (Original, I assume?) to glue the top together. What do they use when they glue the rosette and braces? Do you know what they use to glue on the bridge?
  23. dpm99
    I assume you've tried calling, right? (518)929-6032
  24. dpm99
    Nah, nah. Look what he did. You have fairly straight string pull on the high strings, where you need it for bending. The bass strings have a crooked string pull, but it won't matter as much there. It's brilliant. As for strength, I wouldn't think there would be any problems. Again, it's heavier on the bass side, where you'll have more tension. If the headstock were symmetrical, there might be a different story. -gjdk-, if you can build half as well as you can design, you could end up being a rather impressive builder.
  25. dpm99
    End pin jacks cost money. Holes are free. I'm thinking that area wasn't designed for supporting an output jack / cord and the pressure that they may put out over the years..... I'da still tried to mount it somewhere sturdier on the guitar than there...... I simply assumed he took of small piece of unfigured maple, bent it to the exact radius of the lower bout, used a series of jigs and tools to prep the inner surface through the soundhole, and found some way to clamp the support in there before he drilled that hole. You're saying he didn't? Anyway, the DIY piezo thing is a good trick. Imho, most piezos sound pretty much the same anyway, and these can be placed anywhere you like, as that will vary the tone some.
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