dpm99

Hey, you've done this enough to know the risks. It could be good and could be bad. Only one way to find out. GL! -Dave

Welcome Richie! For me, the spokeshave was one of the easier tools to work. The hard part is setting the blade just right. Once you get that down, it's not hard. If you've worked with a plane, a spokeshave is a snap. If you haven't worked with a plane, well...go get yourself a plane already! -Dave

Welcome Mike! Make sure you put up some pictures of your work soon. I'm incorporating teak into a neck I'm building now, but just a skunk stripe. It's a nice wood to work with. -Dave

$40?! You should be able to get cf rods for under ten. They're cheap!

Bienvenido, Diospez! -Dave

Dean, You're definitely in the right place, and if you were to step on any toes, you certainly wouldn't be the first! I'll let someone else answer the truss rod question, but I can speak to the other ones. I would say that you don't need carbon fiber rods, but it's better to have them than not to have them. I put them in all my necks. They're cheap, easy to install, and they lend a lot of confidence. All in all, sounds like you're approaching the project thoughtfully, which is great. Sounds like it'll be a good neck. -Dave

Welcome Dean! If you're in this to save money, many here will attest to what a money pit building is. It's fun though. You cheapest solution will probably be to buy a fretted bass and modify it. We can help with that. However.... If you want to do the illogical thing and try to build a stringed instrument where there are plenty are excellent ones already on the market that don't have splinters, you're in the right place! Check out this place too. They have some crazy figured tops! http://oregonwildwood.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT Also, especially if you're in a populated area, consider a local hardwood store. That tends to be a lot cheaper than buying online. -Dave

+1 on let it be for now. If you have to put the truss rod under pressure, it won't be an issue anyway, and you can always use that method later. It looks like a good way to fix it. For what it's worth, I don't like to use caulk for my truss rod. I wrap it in Saran Wrap instead. -Dave

Thanks J. I was worried they were too square.

Not yet.

Teaser... And...that's all you get for now. Thanks for looking! -Dave

I think you answered your own question. It's too big when it's too big for the player's hand.

The fretboard width/string spacing issue is huge. I think I agree with Wes. It's even more important than the thickness of the neck. I used to like a really wide fretboard, but I'm over it. My fingers aren't real fat, so I don't need the extra real estate. But like jp was saying, I spend a lot of time playing bar chords all over the neck with fast chord changes, and after a few hours of that, the cramps get almost unbearable. I've worried that my solos may be slowed down a little, but I really don't think they will. It's just a matter of reaching around the fretboard, arching those fingers, and finding the correct thumb position.

Agreed. Nice work.

With every attempted neck I've built, I've gone with a pretty standard approach when it comes to size and shape. If anything I'll build necks thin, as someone once told me thin necks are faster. I got to thinking. I can reach a major 10th on a piano (an octave + a major 3rd). My fingers are much longer than most. And I play the same size necks as Taylor Swift and Avril Lavigne. I wanted to see what a thicker neck would feel like, so this time I built it thick, knowing I could always shave off material later if I didn't like it. Right now it's just over an inch thick (33/32nds?) on a 16" radius, and it feels awesome. It's like my hand says "Ahhhhhh...." I tell that story for only one reason. I know I'm not the only guy here with long fingers (really trying to avoid saying "big hands"...too many degenerates here ), and since many of us are building our own necks anyway, we should not assume that "one size fits all" when it comes to necks. I know the new Les Pauls have assymetrical necks. That's all well and good. But where's the beef? Warmoth offers eight different neck shapes and sizes, including one that's almost exactly like mine. A quarter inch makes a huge difference in the thickness of a neck. Anyone ever thought through this before? It just makes sense to me that I should have a thicker neck than a sixteen-year-old girl. -Dave

Do it!

Welcome Travis! Glad to have you here. Make sure you put up pics as you progress! -Dave

I know there are places to go, but I know it's a little tougher for your guys. Try to find a local hardwood store. That's your best bet!

Ok, so all those pictures are of just one piece, huh? Honestly, wood is usually one of the cheaper things in a project. Have you priced out all your hardware yet? And do you have all the tools you'll need?

Welcome Lefty! My thought is that most any of that would be fine for your body. Not knowing for sure what the wood is, I'd be hesitant to use it for a neck. If I were you, I'd find a hardwood store and find a real nice piece of unfigured maple with straight grain and as close to quartersawn as possible. I can usually get something like that for under $10, but it depends on where you live. -Dave

Wow.... As for the F hole, I recommended basing the decision on appearance. You could always have a sound port. It's not quite the same, I know, but close. Awesome guitar. -Dave

That's one of the prettiest neck blanks I've ever seen. -Dave

Psht! The greatest innovations in guitar history came from things breaking. This could be your opportunity to start a musical revolution! Or a fire. -Dave

I have one, but it's almost twenty years old, so the spring is probably not as strong as a new one. That might be why I hate all the other capos I've tried too. They were knew.

Bookmarked! Thanks. Looks like a good resource. -Dave