GregP

Hey wait-- mine was a question, not an advice.

long drill bits. If I'm not mistaken (and I may be) they even do this if there's a top.

I've thought of table-saw before... but since the centre of the sawblade would have to end where the truss rod should end, there's going to be that sort of "ramp" up and out of the neck blade if you catch my meaning. Do you just leave it "hollow" and put the fretboard on? Greg

If the rectangle is showing the neck pocket, it seems too detached-- nothing supporting it on either side. Also, there's not much of a waist, which gives it a formless feel. The treble-side cutaway and the armrest area are not complementary-- the arm rest area is kinda pointy-ish and the other is (as noted) kinda Fender-ish. As you've already identified, the headstock is just wrong.

I don't like any of'em. Sorry, just being honest.

Yeah, as a non-acoustic-builder, I didn't want to overstep any bounds and say "yeah, go for it!" but I suspected that with a proper jig it could be done. If such jigs are found at OLF or MIMF then perhaps I needn't have waved my "paranoid" flag so visibly.

If your main option will be that you're going to replace the saddle ultimately, you could always try working with what's there. I don't know how easy it would be to take it off, though. If you decided to give it a try without taking it off... man... dunno. I've done some stupid stuff before and it worked out all right for me, so you might get lucky. But the key word here is "stupid". Since I'm a bit dumb, though, and IF I were dumb enough to try this stunt... I'd want to make sure I had a heck of a good jig in place (to provide a stable surface and NOT relying only on the top for support, as well as to protect the rest of the guitar), that my depth was set right (using the existing slot and some cardboard or something as a feeler) and that I had the right sized bit. another problem I can see-- even cutting a new slot at an "opposing" angle, there's going to be a lot of overlap with what was already there. It's not like the crossover will be perpendicular or anything, so you'll have several centimetres (at least) of area in which there's primarily your "filler" that's supporting the new nut. It'd have to be one heck of an amazing job to not come apart on you when routing the new slot... Ultimately, trying to cut a new slot doesn't seem like a very safe (to the guitar I mean) or elegant solution, but I have a soft spot in my heart for people trying dumb things. Greg

Where's my voodoo doll when I need it? I know it's around here somewhere...

While I agree with the general sentiment that sub-classifications are for the birds, they have their use. And on that point, I agree wholeheartedly that Rammstein ain't thrash. Not even close!

Nothing wrong with using a piece of wood as a 'fence' for making the truss rod channel straight! Just use a straight piece of wood! Alternatively, rout the truss rod channel before tapering the neck-- use the edge of the wood itself as your guide, and the router base itself as the 'fence'-- if it doesn't have the appropriate attachment, one should be easily made with wood or materials already at-hand. Greg

HAHA I hope you dont think that of all us mcs shredders !!METAL MATT!! You're not rabid so much as scary.

Whoever sent that "warning" of a "cease and desist" is an idiot. It's obviously not a "har har" continuation of some ongoing joke. That explanation doesn't make any sense. The only answer that makes sense is that the writer is an idiot. +1 to Godin's comment that it has to come FROM A LAWYER, signed for and delivered by hand. You can't issue freakin' legal documents by e-mail for crying out loud. +5 to Mattia... although I DID support hoogle's forthrightness in ALWAYS having stated his inspiration, I don't think it was "necessary" to. Those MCS forumites are obviously a bit rabid-- and I don't mind the sentiment. If I ever did something to inspire that kind of rabidity in a fan, I'd be satisfied that I had struck a resonant chord out there. But man... there's a time and a place to step back and think a bit objectively, and this was it for them. Greg

Alternatively, you could wait until the pickups arrive. ;-)

Well, yeah. The same post, you were clearly talking to one person (the one who seemingly has hundreds of dollars worth of stuff in your view) who you also identified as a "closed minded guy". An individual. <shrug> Seemed pretty obvious... er... student? What am I supposed to call you if I'm the professor?

It's mean. It's green. It got my vote.

You seem awfully sure of that. The thread history, visible for all, shows a different story. :-/

I wish I could just whip up a diagram for you, but I'm afraid I'd have to research it myself, first... not being familiar enough with how mini-switches work. I imagine it's actually fairly simple, though, and I've found that even when people were kind enough to help me with diagrams, my showing initiative and coming up with some initial diagrams went a long way... proved that I wasn't just looking for the easy way out. If you go to any of the major manufacturers' sites, guitarelectronics.com, or even Google for specific guitars you know of with similar wiring, you might even find your answers. As for the black ice "overdrive," I've never tried one because I've heard enough about what they are and how they work that I've come to the conclusion it'd be nearly worthless. Passively-driven diode clipping isn't going to be an actual overdrive. You might be better off getting a kit from somebody like guitarfetish.com and putting in a TRUE distortion or overdrive circuit. Greg

What a crock. It's a feature, not a design, that's being borrowed. You can't copyright the 'wave' carve, and you can't patent it either as far as I know (it doesn't improve upon anything or introduce new functionality). Anybody crying 'foul' is undereducated and overprotective. Since you've been clean about your inspiration, as already mentioned, you have done no wrong. Nobody's a victim here. The Vangerov features a pointier version of the PRS headstock. Whoop-dee-doo. I don't think anyone would want Moser to be sued by PRS, and for that matter PRS wouldn't have a case because although the inspiration is clearly there, it's not an exact copy. Probably don't hear people go on about the PRS-like headstock at the Moser forum.

Depends on your definition of "loads". ;-) A passive signal is a "high-impedance" signal. One from active pickups are already pre-amped, which puts their signal at a "low impedance" level. The solution? Make the passive signal active as well. You will need to feed your passive pickup signal into a preamp of some sort. Ideally it will be a preamp with a similar amount of output and headroom as your existing active pickup. I've no doubt that Googling or forum searching will yield more thorough answers than I could ever provide, but this is the starting point. A preamp can cost very little to make or buy (as little as $10 if you make it, or as much as $110 if you buy, and everything in-between) and then new pots (assuming you're adding actives to a passive setup rather than the other way around) will cost a few bucks... the whole thing can probably be done for in the neighborhood of $50, not including the cost of the pickups themselves. It depends on how DIY you want to go. When I was researching a "piezo + magnetics" blend knob, I came across products that will do the job for you right out of the box, blending actives and passives. If memory serves, those were around $100. Greg

Just do a complete setup. Sounds to me like your bridge is too high, and it's likely that you've given yourself too much "relief" via the truss rod adjustment. If you google "guitar setup" you should find several sites to help you through it, complete with measurements that will put you in the right zone. Even without dedicated tools you can do a better job than "nothing" it seems. For example, you'll find measurements for how high your string should be from the 12th fret when holding down the 22nd and 1st frets. It'll be something ridiculous like "0.012 inches". I don't have feeler guages. But I DO have snippings from a 0.012" string... when I can slide that between the string and the fret, I'm in a close enough ballpark for my own satisfaction. Other measurements might require bigger intervals... I've used drill bits as feeler guages, too. Use anything that's a known size. Greg

It's as simple as, you reap what you sow, no? I was fine with whatever your opinion was until YOU started getting hostile. As I said, you reap what you sow.

It's right there in his signature line, dumbass. Perry doesn't have any need to hide from anyone or anything.

+1 that it's a ground issue of some sort. In most cases, some or all of the 'grounded' components aren't being grounded to the jack. You need to trace ALL of your grounds and see if they make it to the ground lug on the jack eventually.

Your statement "a kit with that riser is no substitute for a real neck jig" is fine by me.

They DO? Man, that'd be fun. Know of any good ones?