GregP

OK, sorry if I misunderstood you, DrummerDude. Certainly no hard feelings over here. You're a man on a mission. A guitar-related mission. There's plenty of room for passion. I was going to post back what idch already wrote, but I'll reword some of it: I don't think he was suggesting that you use a pre-made template to get started. I believe he was saying that you need to MAKE your template before cutting into your actual guitar-body wood. I made mine using MDF, and I recommend MDF as an easily-cut, easily-workable material for building up your templates. Once you've got your MDF (or whatever) templates done, you move on to the actual wood! (what wood will you use? Ash?) Get the body outline done, at least, and the electronics cavity. I wouldn't think you could go TOOooo wrong by getting the pickup cavities started, either, since they're largely covered up by pickguard/bridge, so there's room for minor errors. You sound like a precision-minded guy anyhow, so I'm not worried at all about the cavities. BUT, regardless of the dimensions given on the Warmoth site, do NOT make the neck pocket yet. There's no reason to, and here are my 2 thoughts on that matter: 1. Without the neck in hand, you could STILL make errors that will render the neck unusable. 2. It's actually literally EASIER to do it if you already have the neck! You don't need a "neck pocket template", you use the neck itself to craft a one-time, customized "template" (to use the term loosely) by butting up pieces of wood against the actual neck itself-- one on each side, and one for the end of the neck. Clamp it all into place, take away the neck, and you have a perfect fit. My description of #2 is very short-- it's not THAT quick and easy. You will need to research the technique, but there are lots of resources on this very site. I believe that Myka's neck pocket jig is stickied somewhere, and while you may not want to build a permanent fixture like his, it'll at least give you the IDEA of what's needed, ya know? Greg

[edit: cross-posted with idch] That straight-on picture looked good enough, no? Not sure what the angled one has to do with it now that you've found a straight-on one and have already made a plan. I said I wasn't flaming you. My advice stands, even if it wasn't exactly the advice you were looking for. Now, since I'm not an angry sort, I'll try to rephrase my advice in a way that will be a bit more helpful: I knew that you're a beginner, which is why I'm saying that you shouldn't worry so much about getting everything to the millimetre. If you have a pickguard, you can make sure that your neck pickup is going to go 'through' it properly, which is all that really matters. Since the bridge is a big plate, ditto there. Chances are good that you're going to have a tearout or some other sort of accident, and as soon as you have one little accident, having a millimetre-to-millimetre replica has gone out the window anyhow. Wouldn't you rather do it in a fun way? Get a kick out of it! I bet that at the time 60's telecasters were made, factory tolerances and equipment weren't such that each and every body was exactly to-the-millimetre identical anyhow, which is why I say that it's best to do it in the spirit of the thing rather than worry so much about the numbers. It's been proven time and time again, and is common sense, that your neck pocket will be a better one if it's made with the neck already ready to go. If you would rather have gaps in the pocket because you tried to do it to a measurement rather than to the neck and your own PERSONAL measurements, I and many other people would think that you'd be making a mistake. Warmoth bodies and necks (for example) are made with a computer-controlled device, which is why they're interchangeable and are pretty much a good fit. You don't have that luxury, so you are better off doing it with a different approach. A one-off personalized build is approached differently than assembling a guitar together from parts, which I'm sure you know well enough. Most of all, there's no room to be touchy... we're all here to learn... and if what I've said isn't answering exactly what you've asked, and the ONLY answer you'd be happy with is an exact answer to what you've asked, then I'm afraid it's going to be tricky to learn. Greg

It's a simple choice only if you're making multiple guitars. Otherwise the bone nut blank, which is only $3.25 for single and as low as $2.20 for bulk orders from LMII, is the simple choice. And since the beef bone blank price comes from the fact that you can make many of them, it's more like the $2.20. 5 quid from WD is definitely a rip-off, but even at THAT price, if I'm only planning on making 1 or 2 guitars that use a bone nut, I'd still personally rather pay it. Time is money, too, as are the tools (or parts for tools such as a diff. blade or whatnot) if you don't already own them. Assuming I DO have the tools, my time is worth enough to me. That said, I will never argue with people who simply want to do it for no other reason than because they want to do it. Who needs more of a reason than that? If you ask me, it's the best reason of all. When that's your reason, money isn't really a concern anyhow, and the time spent is enjoyable time because you're teaching yourself something new and flexing your creativity and/or skills, which isn't a waste. But I thought I'd throw my previous post out there anyhow. Just something else to think about. Greg

I'm in NO way trying to flame you with this statement, but: That should be plenty good! Get the parts. Print the full-size plan... and give'er. You should really be worried about getting the parts to work together rather than worrying about a millimetre here and there! For example, if you make your neck to the best of your ability, and it seems to be as bang-on as it's going to get, wouldn't you still rather make the neck pocket based on the neck you've crafted, rather than based on some measurements? For this kind of build, I personally feel that unless you're using tried-and-tested templates, you're better off going in an acceptable 'order' of things for your build and ensuring precision between the parts rather than precision compared to a drawing. Just $0.02 I loooooove Telecaster-style guitars, and I hope this one goes great for you. Greg PS, if you REAALLY want those numbers, all you really need is the measurement from the outer limit of the neck pocket to the very end of the guitar (where the endpin will go). Knowing that measurement will allow you to calculate all of the other measurements you see there. Greg

Caveat: I've never done this, and I'm not a pro with a pro recommendation In an interview with a luthier that I once read, a fellow did exactly that-- used 'cured' beef bone. So it should be doable. Now, the better question-- given the cheap price of bone blanks, would you truly want to cut the blank yourself and work from that? Not sure if you'd get much precision, and depending on the tools, you could end up with a difficult job. Plus, burning bone (it'll get hot from the cutting tools you use) stinks. I can understand why you'd want to try... I've seen my dog's bones lying around and have thought the same thing. But then someone said to me what I just said to you, and it changed my mind. It'd be OK for 'bragging rights' if it turned out well ("I made this from nothing but one of ol' Pete's bones, and it sounds GREAT!") but beyond that you're better off getting a bone blank. Greg

[edit: cross posted] Just put the bridge in the same place that you would if you were doing any old 24.75" scale. The compensation doesn't work if you compensate for it. It's marketed as a 24.75" neck because that's how they want you to treat it. However, the other good thing is that TOM bridges have individually compensatable saddles, too. If you decide to give yourself a touch of 'wiggle room' on the high e just to be sure, you might want to angle the bridge SLLlliiiiiiightly more acutely than the standard diagrams, so that you don't LOSE adjustability on the low E. Greg

That Link to ebay.ca didn't work for some dum reason. You seem to have formatted correctly, but ebay.ca (unlike ebay.com?) didn't like the deep-linking. My thoughts-- it can't be TOO hard to find a straight-on picture of a 60's telecaster, or even its cavities. (Haven't actually tried it, though, to be honest!) Then you can use your mad maffematic skills (ie. blow it up or use an overhead projector on top of your outline, with ruler in hand), you can get within a millimetre or two. I think capturing the spirit of it is more important than if the cavity is routed exactly to within a millimetre of the original plan. If it's your first body build, you're going to accidentally tear out, chip, or burn part of it anyhow while you're routing it. Worrying about such precision will take all the fun out of the project. I'm not knocking precision... certain things like fretboard slotting brooks NO deviation! But even something like the vintage bridge... the saddles move forward and backward enough that if you mount it 2 millimetres in the wrong direction either way, you will still be able to intonate your guitar properly. In my opinion as a guy who hasn't even finished his first guitar because he gets too bogged down in the details (and the cost), the money spent on a set of templates is money very very well spent. I'm sure somebody other than ronkirn is selling them if he rubs you the wrong way. Like other people suggested, BigD is likely to either have one or be able to set you up with one if he has the time. I don't want to speak for him since I've never seen him advertise himself as a "template-maker" here, but it wouldn't hurt to ask. Greg

Cheers, SA!

I definitely prefer bevelled, especially with thick material. 'Sides, I would be likely to get 3-ply. Cheers for the link, Mark. [after checking the site--> ] Although, now that I'm looking at it... I'm reminded of tortoise-shell. I was thinking white, to replace the 'weird white' of the MOTS. But tortoise-shell would give the guitar that vintage vibe. Greg

I guess you're right. Since I already HAVE the mother of toilet-seat tPacifi-tele pickguard, I could easily fashion a template and then use a bevel cutter bit in a dremel, router, or whatnot. (whatever's more appropriate). Anybody know a reliable and inexpensive source for 'blanks'? Greg

As far as I'm concerned, this is one beautiful tele-style guitar: Does anybody know of a source for Pacifica pickguards? In addition to one day wanting to build a Mike Stern-like Tele, I currently own a 301S (I think that's the model number) which has mother-of toilet-seat that I'd like to swap out. Now, MY tele doesn't have the traditional "bar-o-metal" electronics panel, instead having a slot for a strat-style switch... so I guess it makes a bit of a difference for the swap-job, but I'd be happy enough just to find a source, PERIOD, to begin with. Cheers, Greg

Glad to hear you're happy with the feel of the neck, Hyunsu! I have to admit, I don't love the way the pickups look-- too much empty space. Unfortunately, to make it really 'tight', it would have to be a custom pickguard. The way you did it is the way manufacturers do it, though, so you're not in bad company. Greg

That'd work. You could probably even come up with something better'n a screw, but a screw would work.

Thanks Darren and LK, Darren-- I definitely suspect that you are correct, which is why I mentioned the land line phones. While my guitar could be re-shielded, etc., anyhow (would make a good afternoon project), I'm not anticipating a drastic reduction in noise from it. I have no dimmer switches except one that's on a lamp that is turned off. I mean, when it's off it won't be creating any problems, right? If it turns out to be a poorly shielded electrical panel or meter, there's not much I can do about it myself, is there? How would one double-check for such a thing? (ie. once all other trouble-shooting is done, is there a way to check for sure?) I'm also on a fairly main street which means there are substantial power cables nearby. I didn't realize those AC checker gadgets were so cheap. I have to hit the Source (formerly known as Radio Shack) tomorrow anyhow, so I'll see if they have one while I'm at it. I was going to borrow dear ol' da's, but I haven't been out there in a while, and last time I was out there I forgot. LK - cheers, I'm not TOOOoooo worried about it. After all, I did the original coil-tap mod myself once upon a day. I gotta admit, I've half a mind to throw one of the pickups (originally meant for my project) into the neck position while I'm at it. Trouble is that it's a tele-style guitar and the pickup is a humbucker. I'd have to create an appropriately-sized hold in the pickguard. Either way, those are good pointers and they give me renewed confidence. Cheers! -------------- Now, assuming I try everything within my power, and I'm still unable to get interference-free (or at least, reduced enough to make an impact). I'm likely going to be in this apartment for another 2 years, and I can't go that long with noisy recordings. Are there any special types of pickups that are less prone to such interference? Lace Sensors, perhaps? EMGs? Some configuration of Bartolini? Greg

Great news, LGM!

That's awesome, LK. Thanks for the continued assistance-- John, my guitar is long-overdue to be re-shielded anyhow. When I first did it, it was with kitchen foil and all the 'fold-over' tricks to keep it contiguous. Also, I didn't star ground the electronics. It gives me the opportunity to re-wire the guitar while I'm at it, though I worry that I'm going to do a shoddy soldering job. Still, nothing ventured nothing gained, and it wouldn't be the FIRST time I've soldered anything. I've done a decent amount of soldering, but not enough that I consider myself truly 'confident' with it. The 'volume knob as coil tap' was a fine gimmick for a long long time, but I'm tired of it now and I think a 5-way switch will be more reliable in the long run. It'll also give me more confidence that I've got the pickup in 'humbucker' mode. Regarding the cabling-- there are certainly weak links. My soundcard has unbalanced inputs. I've used a fairly high-quality RCA cable to connect it to the mixer; however, an unbalanced connection will always be more prone to pick up noise than a balanced one. That said, it's not until the guitar is plugged in and turned up that there's noise, so I don't think the other cables are destroying the noise floor too badly. As for the apartment, I still need to check the ground. An isolation box is certainly an option I've always considered anyhow, but I don't know how much they cost and I'm skint right now. Might be cheaper to line it with kitchen foil. Back to the guitar for a moment-- assuming everything else gets shielded "seamlessly", isn't the front of the pickup still "open", for all intents and purposes? There are still 12 little polepieces and nothing but a plastic shield (which does nothing for electromagnetic signals) to protect the coils of the pickup from the big bad world... or is that flawed thinking? Greg

Ah, I think it's a buzz, rather than a hum. When I switch to single-coils, I can hear the 60-Hz hum (which is normal) alongside the other sound (which I guess we'll henceforth call 'buzz'). - I'm not near any appliances - Dyanamic and condenser mics don't exhibit the same problem (or at least not as accutely, because I haven't noticed at all) - I have tried another cable just to be thorough, but went back to the original because I didn't notice a difference and I actually have more confidence in this cable than any of my others Now, the pre-amp isn't exactly "pristine". I've tried either an ART TubeMP, or my Behringer UB802 mixer. Neither are "pro" quality. However, I used them for ages at my old place, so even though they're not pristine, I'm familiar with their limitations. Since moving to the new place, the noise levels are a whole new problem. I think my noise floor is at about -30dBu right now. Yuk. I'm still open to more trouble-shooting, but I'm fairly convinced still that it's either: a ) my mains b ) the concrete walls of my apartment are capturing electromagnetic interference and bouncing it all around Further evidence that it may be option "b": * My old cell phone got CRAP reception, even though I'm in the middle of the city now and there are nodes all over the place. The new phone seems to be fine, but I never had problems with the old phone until moving here. When I had the old phone, going outside to talk on it cleared up the problem. * As mentioned, the land line phone is buzzy, too * I get mediocre (at best) reception for FM radio, even with the antenna installed. Thanks to everyone for their continued time and assistance. Greg

No tube. Actually, no amp at all. Just a preamp, which is also not tube.

Pffft, I'm a regular member, but a complete amateur and numpty! I haven't even built a guitar yet! It's in pieces at my father's house right now and I'm almost never over there anymore. I think post count should be hidden, because my post count (and that of others) is highly misleading. Regarding your points, though: 1. I'm plugging into the computer, actually. I'm going through a mixer and then into a soundcard, and then into a VIRTUAL amp. 2. When the cable is unplugged or the volume is turned to 0, the hum is gone, so it's not just the cable, unfortunately. I wish it was as easy as replacing a cable. 3. I've shielded my guitar, the same way you did. But, the biggest and most telling point is this: Nothing has changed in my setup whatsoever except for the location. When I moved into this apartment (which is recent), that's when the problems appeared. Nothing else is new at all, so I'm confident that it's the apartment. It's a concrete basement apartment in a fairly old building... the concrete doesn't help (from what I've heard), and the age might indicate poor electrical mains. So, I'm still not entirely sure which of those 2 problems it is. Your help is much appreciated anyhow. If nothing else, it gave me the opportunity to answer questions that other trouble-shooters might have also had. Greg

OK, My apartment is so littered with electromagnetic interference that even humbuckers aren't doing the job. I've turned off all CRT monitors and fluorescent lights. In fact, I went so far as to turn off ALL electronics except for my computer, LCD monitor, and mixer. But there's still a bunch of hum. I've considered the possibility that it's just shoddy mains, but I don't imagine there's much I can do about it, unless I want to try a 'voltage purifier', but if I can't borrow one, that's not going to happen. Don't want to drop coin on something that's not going to fix the problem! It's also worth mentioning that my phone has a crazy hum on it, too. All inter-connected, I'm imagining. Now, the question is-- Since plain old humbuckers aren't doing it, are there other pickups I can use that don't pick up, amplify, or re-transmit any electromagnetic interference bouncing around in my apartment here? Are EMGs or Lace Sensors good options? How about Bartolinis? I'll confess, I don't have the money to run out and buy them right now, but at least I'll be able to spot a bargain if I stumble across one in the meantime. Thanks! Greg

There certainly ARE people who like the concept of communism, Ledzendrix. Legions of them. But I think you'll discover is that the problem is that communism has NOT worked. The countries that adopt communism as a political goal inevitably become fascist states, instead. Sorry for the OT post. Back on-topic, I have to admit that I've never been a fan of those bent steel saddles, either. They may have worked for the last 5 decades, but I still prefer American Standard-style saddles, or Graph-Tech replacement saddles. Greg

I had an article in a magazine here that I was going to refer to, but I can't seem to find it... wonder if it was one of the magazines I read at Chapters but didn't buy! Therefore, I can't really argue, if you've seen the prices or have them right in front of you. If you're right, then I WOULD also just wait for the TonePort. At $200, I'd even wait for the UX-2 (I think that's what it's called) which is the larger one. Can't argue with a phantom-powered mic input for adding flexibility to the setup. BUT, that's just me. Gorecki seems to have very specific and very modest needs, in which case the GuitarPort still might be the right choice at $60 used instead of $130 new. Greg

Not only is the tension enough, but the small little screws for adjusting height would (like I said, the tension IS enough) keep the string from going berzerk and falling off the saddle. Greg

Well, the easiest answer is: you need the Guitar Rig Kontrol. That small issue aside, you'll need a pre-amp into your soundcard's line-in. The mic-in has its own pre-amp, but it's not impedence-matched to your guitar signal. It'll work better than the line-in, but it's not a great match. Greg

DEFINITELY follow Jehle's advice. I'm not necessarily a "computer is best" ho' , though I know I must sound like it sometimes. However, I have had experience with both and I can tell you that a computer and some basic software will be infinitely more powerful, flexible, and better-sounding. Plus, even with a low-specced computer, you could probably run any necessary software already on what you own-- and much of it for the low cost of "free". Greg