avengers63

I use the angle grinder with a 40-grit flap wheel. I have to spend a little more time with the palm sander, but the speed is well worth it. If I'm putting on a carve or bevel, I'll make the initial angle on the router table. It's not so much for material removal as it is to mark a straight line around the body. Without it, I absolutely cannot get a consistent depth of cut.

Thanks for saying that. I really appreciate the words. I didn't take it badly, but I understand better safe than sorry.

I made my intentions and reasoning known in the Misc Stuff About Life thread. It's basically a mix of memories, nostalgia, and different for the sake of different.

I'll be using a pre-fab neck. It's on it's way right now.

The corveX is definitely 80's Hair Metal. It just needs a pointy Jackson headstock.

While it's generally true that you get what you pay for, it isn't necessarily the case with pickups. Now, I'm not going to say that Seymour Duncan, DiMarzio, Lace, or any number of American pup companies are substandard in any way. They all make great pups. BUT they have a name, reputation, and production costs to consider, so you're partially paying for 1) the name and 2) American production. GFS pups are made in China by Artec. Many folks here have used them and nobody has had anything bad to say about them. You can find them on eBay from a number of different sellers cheaper than through GFS. Just a thought. Personally, I have guitars with Artec, Bartolini, Bill Lawrence, Gibson, DiMarzio, and Gretsch pups, and they ALL have unique and desirable sounds.

Assuming the pickguard is not metal, it's non-magnetic and therefore invisible to the pickup. It won't interfere with the signal. BUT... the pup would be a good distance from the strings, so the signal is likely to be quite weak. Any plans to compensate?

I agree about the last pic. The bass horn and extra beveling do a lot for it.

Were it me: Tape off the binding on one side, then tape off the other. Repeat for the other side of the body. Make sure to press it down VERY securely. Any gaps at all and the paint will seep in. On the good side, after you paint (but before you clearcoat), you'll scrape the binding clean with a razor blade or x-acto, so any seeping will be taken care of.

I do fine with rattle cans, as do many others. There are some who would call us lazy heathens for not using the "proper equipment", which would mean getting an air compressor and a spray gun. I brush on my clearcoats, which MANY folks scoff at, but it works for me. There's a tutorial on the main page on how to get a sunburst with a rattle can. It DOES work.

So that's your vision of it and you're in, right?

If you purely sand off the finish, you'd REALLY have to work at it to go through 1/4" of material. I'm not saying that it can't be done, like with 40 grit and a lot of aggression, but that it'd be a chore. That being said, I agree with a chemical stripper. There are a lot of tight inside corners that would be a bear to sand out.

You know there's only one REAL way to explore the possibilities of that the Corvus could be, and it's not by talking (typing) about it. If the house situation pans out favorably (for a change, huh?), get yourself some construction-grade pine and get to making one!

DOUBLE NECK!!!!! Of course, that'd blow the "budget" through the roof, but wouldn't it be absurd?

I'd love to see someone do a double-neck, just for the sheer ridiculousness of it.

The bottom line is what to use is that there are a LOT of ways to do it, none of which are wrong. I didn't like the grainfiller I used, so I fill it with sanding sealer. Some folks wetsand with Tru-Oil to fill the grain. You could use CA or epoxy. It all boils down to what YOU think is the easiest & most effective.

Both bodies planed to 1 11/16". bandsawn, routed to the template, and given a 1/2" roundover on the back.

IN: avengers63 / John (started) Dirge For November (started) ToddW The Telecaster Kid WezV PSW/Pete Anderekel Orgmorg (started) MattHarris75 MAYBE: Kenny Komodo (you know you wanna)

So what... you just had a need to kick my a$$? You'll probably pull off some fanned fret jobby with a zircote fretboard and some other funky wood porn bling. i just dont think its the right way to limit it. I KNEW IT!!!!! You are SOOOOOO busted. You may not be doing it yourself, but you'll push for someone else. to do it. Of course, you didn't say you DIDN'T want to kick my a$$ with a "fanned fret jobby", just that you didn't want to do it with pre-decided specs & limits.

That's basically it. If by "wood filler" you mean "grain filler, you can use sanding sealer to fill the pores and bypass a step. You just put it on, sand back, examine to see if the pores are all filled, then repeat until they all are. If by 'wood filler" you mean "filling the little divots and holes with wood filler/putty", then... never mind.

It gets to you after a while, doesn't it. You know you want to jump in, you just won't let yourself. C'mon, buddy! Holf your breath... both feet... deep end.

Is the body getting painted? I hope so - the blue inlays aren't matching up well with what I'm guessing is mahogany.

I don't see that happening at this point. IN: avengers63 / John Dirge For November ToddW The Telecaster Kid WezV PSW/Pete Anderekel MAYBE: Kenny Orgmorg MattHarris75 Matt LOOKS like he's in, but hasn't come out and said it yet. (hint hint) From today's discussion, here are the rules: 1) The body must be evidently inspired by the Corvus - the closer to the original the better. It's a personal interpretation of the original shape, but the connection MUST be evident. 2) Try your best to keep the budget at $200. If you go over, explain clearly why. It'll be up to the judges to determine if it's legitimate or not. 3) All entries are to be finished and in the entry thread by June 31, 2009. A GOTM style vote will begin on July 1, 2009. No deadline to enter the build-off, just to have it done. 4) Post your build thread. We'll still wait until tomorrow evening to see what gets discussed.

Umm...in the COMIC book industry?...Oh,so he is right up there with Carl Sagan and Isaac Asimov then... Hmmm, let's see... Carl Sagan was an astronomer... Isaac Asimov wrote sci-fi and science textbooks... Nope. They're not up to his level as an author yet. Dismiss Alan Moore all you like because of his chosen medium, but until you've read his work, you're not qualified to criticize him.

Shows what you know. Alan Moore (the author of this part of the series) is one of the most intelligent writers in the industry. He doesn't write comic books, he writes modern fiction which happens to use comics as the storytelling medium.