avengers63

I'm not positive. I de-soldered everything, then started from scratch. I first did the pup to jack - fine. Then added the pot - fine. No issues after I re-did the whole thing. The most likely explanation is that I had something reversed, but I honestly don't know.

They run about $90/set for chrome, so yea, you could call them really expensive. I had them on the Tele I made that has a Bigsby on it. I HATED using them in combination with the Bigsby, so I traded them out for some traditional tuners and used the Steinbergers on this one. They have their own little nuances you need to get used to. After that, I think they're great. I totally disagree with Dean about them being difficult during setup. They're extremely accurate (42:1 IIRC), so setting the intonation was a LOT easier than with regular tuners. The body is 1 1/2" thick, +/- 11 1/2" at the widest points, and +/- 17" from the tip of the pocket to the bottom. The overall length is 35". No info on weight, but it's really light... almost as light as my Steinberger. If you think it needs a custom case, feel free to get sewing!

I got it sorted out. Quiet as a mouse now.

wow Plug it in before you get in there, just to see what works and what doesn't. If you can cram it all back into the control cavity, that is.

DUDE!!! That's really cool. Who would have thought to put dark walnut stain a slab of oak and lay it over the washer/drier for an improvised workstation. Considering I took over 1/2 her closet, 1/2 her scrapbooking room, and the entire furnace room, I don't think SWIMBO will let me get away with that one. But good for you for taking control of your house.

Build Thread THE YELLOW AND BLACK ATTACK Direct recreation of the original Corvus shape, or at least as near as I could get without having an original to copy. MODS: headless redesign shelf in cutaway for tuners rear routed control cavity radiusing of the leg curve slight belly cut BODY: 1 1/2" thick 2-piece poplar poplar control cavity cover all-access neck joint with 3-degree neck angle 1/2" shelf along bottom cutaway for rear-mounted tuners gunslinger style angled pickup route NECK: maple neck rosewood fretboard 25.5" scale 22 frets re-shaped headless design tab-mounted string ferrules HARDWARE & ELECTRONICS: chrome hardware TOM bridge 1 volume lug-nut knob side-mounted football jack plate Steinberger gearless tuners standard strap buttons Kramer Quad-Rail humbucker puckup FINISH: 2 coats of sanding sealer 3 coats of rattle can gray primer, sanded with 220 after each coat 4 coats of black or harvest gold rattle can paint, sanded with 220 after each coat 12 coats of rattle can polyurethane, wetsanded & leveled with 400 after every 3 coats 2 coats of matte top coat back close up back left back right down the neck up from the bottom front close front left front right tuners from the back headstock from the back

I'm all for using whatever technology is available to make the job easier & better. But... somehow that still feels like cheating somehow. Don't get be wrong - I'd use it were it available to me. It just makes it a whole lot less impressive.

I have an issue I absolutely CANNOT sort out. 1 HB 1volume pot Pretty hard to dork up one would think. There is a buzz that only goes away when I touch the output jack, jack ring, or plug. I ran the pup directly to the jack, bypassing the pot altogether, remembering to include the bridge ground, but it's still there. Now, I've never heard of a JACK going bad, but I suppose it's possible. It's not the instrument cable. Is it possible there's something wrong with the pup itself?

Obviously, it isn't contoured yet, but the surgery basically went off without a hitch. And, as I said, I gained a LOT of room. As it was, the neck pup ring was up against the hangover and the bridge pup ring was at the intonation line. This little bit of room really opened things up.

This is basically it. The kids seem to think it looks like a giant goldfish cracker. The matte top coat makes the while thing look almost plastic. It's really neat. When I get it all worked out, I'll have some better pics.

But only fretted instrument players would get it. There's one in a nearby college town called The Stagger In.

dibs

What I ended up doing was drilling a hole through the side of the neck between the 22nd & 23rd fret. I didn't hit metal, so I went ahead and took off the bottom of the neck just behind the 23rd. This will give me plenty of room to fine-tune the end AND it gave me another 11/16" of room. When it was as tight for room as it was, that's a HUGE amount. Thanks for the input, suggestions, and what to look out for. It all worked out great.

If you'd have put this up 3 weeks ago, I'd have jumped on all of it. As it is now, I'm funneling everything into neck building tools & supplies.

I try really hard to re-purpose most of my cutoffs into something more useful, like stringers to widen out the body blank to other small woodworking items. A lot of the small, seemingly unusable pieces become "finishing stands": blocks for the piece to sit on while the finish is being brushed on & drying. I made two sets of bookends about 6-8 weeks ago with scroll-sawn people on them. The little men were done entirely from pieces in the scrap box. I must have 50 pounds of pieces too small to be really useful but too big to throw away. Maybe a chess set will erupt from there some day. No, my friend... were I to make a jig like that, I'd get some construction grade pine from Home Depot.

The Project Guitar.com "Corvus Build-Off" contest is a showcase for all the members, so show us your interpretation of the Gibson Corvus in this thread! This contest is open to any and all members that enter and will most likely never be repeated. For a run-down of the rules, please see this thread: Corvus Build Off. The winner will receive nothing but bragging rights. As the Corvus is a body shape that is vehemently hated by some, the winner is quite likely to have scorn and ridicule heaped upon them. If you are a regular forum contributor you will also be subject to the possibility of long term ridicule and loss of street-cred. So show us your version of the Corvus in this thread! You've got till the 30th of June, 2009 then this thread gets locked and the voting starts! Any Post that is not an entry should be deleted. I'm not a mod, though, so I can't actually delete anything. Please post a maximum of your 4 best pictures per Corvus entered. Please supply a link to your build thread.

The clear is on and leveled, then topped off with matte coat. I'm doing the assembly & wiring today. No pics because the wife left the camera at the in-law's house Sunday. I'll try to get it back tomorrow. Since I'll be the first one done, I'll start the entry thread in the Announcements and Test Area section.

I stand corrected about the 81/89. If you're going with a DiMarzio, you really can't go wrong with a Super Distortion.

I wasn't really looking for maple in specific but any wood: walnut, white limba, canarywood, chechen, cherry... whatever I decide to use. On a different note, is cedar too soft for a f/b or neck?

Any given 4 wire HB is able to be split. Try using a 4-position switch. If you wire it up right, you'd be able to get the North coil, South coil, both in series, and both parallel. If you're REALLY good with the wiring, you could put a push/pull on one pot to put one coil out of phase. 6 sounds from one pickup, all subtly different.

I'd like to test drive a set a set of p-rails. Reports say that they do an adequate job at mimicking all three pup types, but don't nail down any of them. I don't doubt for a minute that there's a LOT of give & take in there with the different coil voicings. Another I'd love to hear are the Lace Alumitones.

Not being a butt here or anything, but... The 89 is the standard bridge EMG humbucker, and has been for the last 25+ years. It's pretty well documented.