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avengers63

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Everything posted by avengers63

  1. avengers63
    I haven't used that unit, but it doesn't LOOK like it'd be that great. Clearly it's a vibrato, not a tremolo. If you're looking for a vibrato, you really don't need to look any further than Bigsby. Sweed had it right that it's a B5, and Pierce & anderekel are right that you'd want it MUCH closer to the bridge. As for the visible holes, you could (and should) plug them. With the unit closer to the bridge, you'd want to place it directly over the holes so they'd be almost completely covered.
  2. avengers63
    I've pretty much decided not to put this on consignment. Instead I'll be eBay-ing the neck & body for whatever I can get out of them and keeping the parts. With that in mind, I'd like some suggestions on what to do with the hardware. I'm pretty much open to any & all suggestions for body shape & woods. It's the blue that's making it a challenge in my mind. Matching p/g, inlays, and TRC would go a long way. I'm currently thinking along the lines of a Rickenbacker 600-series, or maybe an Iceman. But seriously... just throw out some ideas.
  3. avengers63
    Making the 12th fret inlay
  4. avengers63
    Blemished benders for $40?
  5. avengers63
    I agree. This is a salvaged neck.
  6. avengers63
    The body is almost ready to be finished. These pics are of the beveling & neck pocket shaping. You can see in #3 & #5 that there are a couple of places on the edge that need to be filled in with epoxy. A also need to do a final fit of the neck pocket depth and drill for the controls.
  7. avengers63
    routed the fretboard & headstock for binding Lesson learned: when routing for binding on a neck I've made, do it BEFORE raidusing the f/b & shaping the back. And the headstock is going to be PIA to bind.
  8. avengers63
    I thinned out the neck yesterday. It's really amazing what a few mm will do.
  9. avengers63
    Blood isn't extremely bright either. A few moments exposure to open air gives it an earthy tone. Just like bloodwood.
  10. avengers63
    Or you could just use bloodwood.
  11. avengers63
    I'M NOT THE EXPERT!!!!! But offhand, I'd say yes, but it wouldn't be nearly as dramatic. Quilted lends itself well to very dramatic, deep, high contrast, multi-color dye jobs.
  12. avengers63
    Sure I live here. That doesn't mean I ever paid any attention to topics I had no interest in at the time. Thanks.
  13. avengers63
    What's the minimum thickness to look for with the wood under the truss rod so that there's no danger of the rod busting through the back of the neck?
  14. avengers63
    The headstock is going to stay exactly like it is. It's a LPjr, which is minimal & simplistic. I picked out the headstock to maintain the minimalism. Plus, as it's my first one, I wanted to keep things as simple as possible. For the fretting, I had a towel that was folded a couple of times underneath it. I let the headstock drape over the edge of the table so the neck would lay flat. It got more tricky as I moved towards the edges, but I figured it out. I used a 12oz deadblow hammer with a brass head, so most of the impact should have been transfered to the fret already. Maybe I'll try the beanbag thing in the future.
  15. avengers63
    While this is similar to the one Brian linked to, this is a different process. The tutorial is dieing the wood, which this is not. Traditional ebonizing involves causing a reaction to the tanic acids in the wood. This is a chemical reaction within the wood fibers, not a dye or stain. Tanic acids are not very abundant in some woods, therefore ebonizing will not be as effective. The method I found works on virtually any wood.
  16. avengers63
    I'll take that advise and run with it. I'll have the body done on Monday, so I can to a test run then. Thanks for the heads-up.
  17. avengers63
    I sure got YOU fooled, don't I.
  18. avengers63
    I came across an article in this month's Popular Woodworking on how to ebonize any wood, not just certain ones. PLEASE LMK by posting here if y'all want me to write up a tutorial for permanent use here. I tried it on some scrap pieces and it worked like a charm.
  19. avengers63
    I just took my first neck from ready to shape to shaped, sanded, and fretted in about 8 hours. I took a number of breaks as well, so I probably only had about 5 hours of actual work. So long as you have the tools and are all read up on your instructions, you can knock it out on a weekend day. Disclaimer: the frets aren't leveled & dressed yet, but they ARE in & beveled.
  20. avengers63
    :D
  21. avengers63
    TIME TO FRET! everything together hammered in trimmed & beveled
  22. avengers63
    I always find it interesting what some folks notice when we see the WIP pics.
  23. avengers63
    Yea... it took me all of one cut to realize I needed to clamp it over the edge. Tuner holes laid out, drilled, and test fit.
  24. avengers63
    "The first cut is the deepest..." Heel & headstock transition roughed out. Now it's time to make a mess with the spokeshave. Seems OK for a first effort. Let's sand it up from 60 to 220 and smooth things out. THEN we'll see how it really feels. This thing is FAT. It really fills up my hand. I have huge hands, so that's not a bad thing. Before I sanded it down I felt it up quite a bit. I was nervous about taking off too much for fear of either going through the truss rod channel or making the bottom of the channel too thin. Again, it all works out because I have big hands, so a fat neck will work for me.
  25. avengers63
    While it's still square, I'd better put in the side dots.. All the tools I have to do this with in one place... ...and let's see if I can do this without dorking it up.
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