avengers63

A forstner is cleaner, but a spade is faster. I like to start with one and switch to the other. This also saves the forstners as they dull a LOT faster than a spade.

DiezelMonster - It'll be a bolt-on, so the extra beyond the f/b is getting cut off. I just haven't got there yet. Valentine - I cut it from a board I picked up at Woodcraft a few months ago. Juntunen - Recessed TOM with a V through-the-body plate. I don't do trems very often. When I do, my preference is a Kahler.

Rhoads V 1 1/2" thick mahogany body bubinga neck 24 fret canarywood fretboard chrome hardware Ibanez & Washburn HSH pups The body & headstock will be painted purple. This one might be a slow burn, or it might get knocked out sooner than I expect. I really don't know yet.

Yeah, and it's possible to do with different colored binding strips or by painting it as I did. ......with a plastic binding strip

What... you heard me rattle your cage?

one-upper It'll look pretty good if you can get all that inlay in there. i hope you have access to a CNC & a laser cutter. If not, I bet you could get ahold of whatshisface from Parabel and get him to help out.

Nothing unusual - just standard scrollsaw technique. I cut everything with a 12 TPI blade, burned off the fuzzies on the back with a lighter, and sanded the front by hand. On a scrollsaw, anything past 7TPI leaves a pretty smooth surface with no sanding or filing needed. My concern in the finishing is not getting the holes filled up with finish. I may have to buy a rattle can of finish just for the front. Worse things have happened.

Take a serious look at cream for the outer layer of binding. It'd compliment the limba very nicely.

Oh puke.... powder blue? Just gawd-offal! Then again, who am I to talk, what with all the stuff I do to mine. I'm working on a Rhodes V that I'll be painting purple.

IDK about a black face, but a front & back blackburst with black edges would be pretty tasty. You might be able to add in a bit of a tobacco burst as well as the black edges.

Yea.... All alone. In an isolated room. Playing with your wood. Naked.

Don't hate be 'cause I got to it first. Besides - you're a MULTI-GOTM winner. I'm going to lose this month again with a last minute rally of TWO different entries.

I chose not to try the spray paint idea. If it didn't work out, it'd be a mother getting the paint out of all of the holes.

Not yet. I've been giving it some serious consideration though. My only real worry is tearout in the carving stage.

I'm starting to re-work this one. I'm in no hurry at all since the prototype still works & plays perfectly, so this is a "when I don't have anything else going on" project. The basic guitar will remain the same, but there will be a couple of changes along the way. First up is the neck blank & fretboard. I had a piece of flatsawn maple that probably would have worked just fine, but I wanted it to be quartersawn. Cutting up the piece and gluing it back was a very inefficient use of wood, but I'm more interested in a better product. It still hurts my brain to know that a bunck of wood was "wasted" that didn't really need to be. So here it is with the end-access truss rod in place.... ...and with the white oak fretboard. Yes, you read it right - white oak. I might be ebonizing it, I might not. It's not like oak isn't hard and durable enough for a fretboard, so why not.

Is this what you're shooting for?

Alcoholics Anonymous New Jersey They're like a second family to you, huh?

I've wondered about making dovetails on the sides of the pocket that would slide into grooves in the neck. Maybe just rabbits & dadoes. That would essentially eliminate any possibility of the neck pulling forward and reduce the attachment to one bolt. Were one clever, it could be hidden fairly easily.

I could offer a suggestion...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_part...g_Ferrules.html NOT TALKING DOWN TO YOU HERE..... But if these are some of the extremely basic types of questions you have, you need to do a LOT more reading and research before you even begin to plan your first build. Start with this book.

That's even easier than Pete's idea. If I spray it from the back, there would be a lot less to clean up on the front. I could even spray the front before the pattern (which is covered in clear tape) is removed. Nice crisp edges that way. Thanks! Hey - I'm OK with the fact that I have a LOT of nerd hobbies . I came to terms with that a loooooong time ago.

I actually just sold off nearly all of the 400+ point Eldar army I had. I still have a few units left, just waiting to be re-listed. I still have two others waiting to be sold: Marine & Sisters Of Battle. Then there's all of the BloodBowl teams that aren't going anywhere, as well as all of the individual figures I did just for the fun of it. Man... combine that with my lifelong comic book obsession and being a tabletop role-player and it's a wonder I got married once, much less twice.

Good idea. I spent 15+ years painting miniatures for tabletop wargaming, so I'm sure I could pull it off.

Decided that the cherry blossoms would be fine without them. idunow The top is 1/4" thick, but the pattern is pretty tight. As the base is walnut as well, the holes will be pretty dark. They should just show up as black.

Here's what I finally came in on. It won't be every little detail that's pictured, but it'll be pretty close.