avengers63

No doubt! Just to repeat (in case anyone missed it): I only bought this construction grade pine because I wanted something cheap to learn how to do the carved tops with. That being said, I have to give serious consideration to getting some better grade pine and making a few bodies from it. Give it a semi-decent top and it might not be half bad.

http://www.squierguitars.com/products/sear...rtno=0303025507 And from the Squire website. Thanks bluesy!

Well, y'all can argue about it all you want. I just wanted to learn to carve, but not dork up the good wood. My curiosity got me thinking, and zionsdream's post made me talk about it here. Of course, if someone could provide a link verifying the pine telecasters, that's be really cool. I'm meaning one that will show actual production history - backup proof that it's not a bad idea. KPCRASH: I'm not going to bite your head off, especially considering you're openly stating that you're repeating someone elses statements. But... suggesting using plywood for guitars is looking to be told to shove off. Only the cheapest throw-away guitars are made from plywood. I'm not going to say anything about their construction stability, but there is a reason the big builders (who are constantly looking for ways to cut costs) use "real" wood instead of the vastly cheaper plywood. I'm not fightin'... I'm just sayin'.

Lifted from a different thread. It's funny you shoulf mention that. I was just talking with my brother-in-law about that thread last night, and that many folks had a hard time telling the difference between the chipboard ax and the "real" one. Before I attempt to do the carve on the PRS body I'm making, I'm trying it out on some cheap wood. Better to learn on it than on the "real" wood. I went to Home Depot and bought a 2" thick, 8" wide by 8' long piece of construction pine for just under $6. I made a body blank out of some of it, and am now waiting for my new bandsaw blades to come in so I can cut the shape. I'll be attacking it with the angle grinder/sanding disk very soon. When I do, I'll post pics in the thread But... I'm like you. I'm curious about how it'd sound. Even though it's cheap, construction-grade material, it's still solid wood. If the chipboard thing was virtually indescernable from "real" wood, can this be any different?

I just got done sizing a piece of mahogany for a non-guitar project. I have had this piece in my house for +/- 2 months, 5-6 weeks of which were in my workroom. The original dimensions were 49L, 17W, 1T, rough cut. I cut off a 32" long piece, trimmed it down to 9.5" wide, then planed it down to 3/4", taking a roughly equal amount of wood from both sides. When it was all done, I set it down on my workbench to draw out the cutting plan, but it had already twisted. No exaggeration, the opposite corners were about 1/2" off of the bench. 1) Did it twist because of the machining? If so, where should I have stopped to let it acclimate again? 2) Once it re-acclimates, will it un-twist?

I'll give that a shot next time around.

That'd be great. As stated, though, my press table doesn't swivel that way, hence my question.

+1 That color looks GREAT!

What grits of sandpaper should be used for fret dressing? I bought a neck recently that needs a little attention on the edges of the fretboatd.

Here's a related question/situation: I have a bench-top drill press. The table will not rotate so that I can clamp the body to the table and make a clean hole for the jack on the side of the body. Bummer. When I did the jack, I was forces to use a hand drill. I made a pilot hole, then followed it with either a forstner or a spade - I don't remember. I'm pretty sure it was a spade, but I can't be 100% sure. Anyway, it skipped just a little when it first got going, but was then fine. Unless I can come up with a better solution, I'll be using top-mounts in everything, which isn't always desirable. Is there a better way of doing this with what I have available?

I'm flattered. I just wish I had been able to pull it off. The craclke I had wouldn't crackle. I was pretty disappointed. I'm currently painting the whole thing blue.

I wonder why nobody thought of carving the headstock before. It's one of those things that seem so obvious once it's done.

There is always debate on if you really need to or not. I'm on the side that you don't need to. It won't cause any feedback and is extremely unlikely to make a noticable tone difference. Cosmetically, with it being under the pickguard, it'd never be seen. If you ever want to use the space in the future, you'd then have to open it up again. My suggestion would be to leave it alone. But... If you're set on doing it, you'd be best served by making the cavity square. That would make it a LOT easier to plug the hole with a piece of wood. Imagine making a square piece, then making a rounded-corner. Which will be easier to get exact? You'll want as tight a fit as you can reasonably manage. Cut the fill-in piece to the dimensions of the cavity to be filled. Unless you mean to refinish the body, you might want to consider cutting it just shy of flush with the surface - maybe 1/16". This will give you a small margain for error. If you leave it even a little proud of the cavity, you'll need to level it down somehow, which is very likely to monkey up your finish. Simple version: cut the hole square, the glue in an appropriately sized piece.

My only thought was to lower the bit as far as possible and adjust the table a set distance. I didn't want to suggest this earlier for fear of tainting y'all's thoughts or preventing a response.

Drill press? Please elaborate.

So, with the diameter of the end of the bit making depth stops impossible to use, what's the best way to stop at a pre-determined depth with forstners?

I decided to go with Sun Belt. The blade prices were comparable, but Sun Belt had a lor cheaper shipping. I'd love to give you a report, but I'm NOT an expert, so I doubt my testimony will be worth much. The only thing I might be able to say is if it'll be better or worse than the blade that came with the saw. I'm just going to go on a hunch that the blades that come with it aren't worth a darn, so even THAT wouldn't tell you anything.

The pup is a Kramer quad-rail. You're right - it's a pair of mini-rails wired up as a regular HB. I was only able to hear it in the other body, which was plywood, so I can't give an accurate response to it's sound. For what it was, it sounded OK. I'd wager it'll sound tons better in a real wood body. What I can say is that it's HOT. This thing cranks out some power. Go figure.

I don't know how else to say this. I KNOW. Seriously guys, I know I won't get what it's really worth. As I've already said, I've been on eBay for 8 years. I'm going into this eyes wide open. I've contacted my local stores, and I don't have any other options. I'm OK with it. I'm not under some false impression that I'll make a mint. I know this and it's not my plan. There are >100 strat and tele bodies (each) on there at any given time. You'll not see me trying to sell one of them - the market there is way too overloaded. I've watched hundreds of auctions end, just to get a realistic price expectation. The alder, poplar, and ash bodies don't get anything. The other woods do. The more exotic sounding the wood or unusually figured/colored, the better. Take Larry Karosa & his necks as an example. He sells his necks there constantly. He occasionally offers a maple/rosewood combo, but not very often because they only get $40 or so. Throw out a jatoba/purpleheart and it'll be pushing $100 or more. Clearly, that's not what its worth, but the price is a whole lot more for about the same cost of materials. I appreciate your concern. Really, I do. I understand what you're trying to say, and as far as price, I agree with you. I'm in NO WAY trying to brush you off or appear that I don't want your input in any way. That being said... can we please move on?

Thanks, dude. I know folks are looking from the number of hits the topic has, but nobody's responding. Then again, I'm not asking anything - just posting progress. I gotta tell ya - I'm really jazzed up about this. The tele was a blast, but it was mainly assembly. This is my first scratch-build. I can hardly wait until I plug it in for the first time and hit a power-A chord.

Nothing personal, but.... dang. That's just.... I mean... Paint it black or something. Dang. And Supernova said my PRS body looked like it was slaped together from scrap I had lying around. At least you acknowledge up front that it ain't pretty.

Read the OP. Hey... What's up with all this egg on my face?

My bandsaw blade gave up the fight last night. I was re-sawing some 2" thick zebrawood for a bookmatch. The lumber on the outfeed pinched closed and bound up the blade. Lather, rinse, and repeat and by the 3rd go, I'm not willing to use this blade anymore. It sounds line it's going to turn into shrapnel. So... What recomendations would y'all have for a 67" blade. My local stores don't carry 67" blades. I'm looking at bandsawbladesdirect.com and sunbeltindustrial.com for their made-to-length blades, but I wanted to get some input first. Any thoughts or suggestions?

If only! No, the two pics are both sides of the boards. I have been seriously considering L2 with R1, but turn R1 over so the grain lines on both sides run in the same direction. With this setup, the flamey bits would be in the middle where it'll be more flat, and the grain lines will be where the carves are and more able to show off more grain. Also: I have some binding on the way. I'm considering cream, but I'm not sure I want to try it at all just yet. Then again, what the heck - dive into the deep end!

That's still $140 for a bridge. Dang! I agree with GregP: scavenge the saddles from a Wilkinson hardtail and make your own base. Honestly, though, why would you need individual saddles unless you're doing a multi-scale?