avengers63

This doesn't sound half-bad. The main problem I found with this one and with my steinberger (wood, not graphite) isn't with the sound, it's with the lack of body. They don't hang where full sized bodies hang when you're standing. They don't sit as high on your leg as full sized bodies sit. They sound fine. They don't feel the same.

Speaking of which... http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip12.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip13.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip14.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip15.jpg So yeah... what he said.

AND be expecially gentle when you're getting near the points. They can get ripped off and thrown across the room extremely easily.

This just isn't like you. A plain, black bass. I remember discussing this while it was in the planning stages. I still say doing one like this has gotta be a nice change of pace from the exotic & highly figured pieces you usually do. Not a quality dropoff, just.... more simple.

Actually they lack alot of soul...I ordered one back at that time....it was dead as Prince's fashion sense... +1 I've had a Steinberger since 1989 and I almost never play it anymore. I never really liked the EMGs they put in them either. They're just as soul-less. Just as importantly, their neck is very narrow. Listen gonzo... if you're looking to start a fight, Wes isn't the right one to start one with. You asked for opinions from anyone with any exlerience. He told you what experience he had, then gave you his opinion. I DO have esperience with graphite necks. $300+ is way overpriced and the tone is sterile. A better way for you to spend your money is on a tutor for grammar, punctuation, and message-board etiquette.

Read the thread.

I bought the neck off of eBay. I did a side-by-side comparison if it, a Danelectro, Carvin, and Westone necks in this thread. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=394426

The imperial buttons I've found are in the $20-$25 range. That's about the same as a set of Wilkinsons, and about 1/2 the cost of the Grovers. It's not really worth the cost to me to try and mix-n-match. Plus, I'm not an expert on tuners. As far as I ever got into it is 1) do they stay in tune, and 2) higher gear ratio=more precise tuning. Honestly, I couldn't tell you which brand is better than another.

I'm planning a build that will use Imperial tuners. The only manufacturers I can find that make them are Wilkinson and Grover. From my investigations, Wilkinson makes decent inexpensive tuners. Aside from price, what are the real differences between Wilkinson & Grover?

bump

Pete did exactly what I was wanting folks to do. I voted for the reso because I thought it was the best one out there this month, really standing out from the crowd. I want to thank those who gave me the feedback and constructive criticism. As a novice, I know that I still have a LOT to learn. Remembering that, any and all thought snad opinions are not only welcome at all times on every build thread, but they're encouraged and greedily wanted. I intended to keep the Avenger fairly simple for the first time out. That's why it was classified as a prototype. Suggestions like rounding the neck pocket, beveling the edges, carving the top, and paying more attention to the headstock are EXACTLY the sorts of comments I need. Experience will make me better, but opinions & input help refine the design. Hopefully, I'll be able to put in something that will actually give a challange for the next few months. The Retrotron, ash PRS, and leopardwood-capped Avenger are all in various stages of near completion. You can be sure that they'll get entered.

front edge 1 edge 2 Leopardwood glued on. Cap routed to size. Carve lip cut. Binding channel cut. So... do I glue on the binding before I do the carve or after? I think I know the answer, but I need to make sure. When you answer, please tell me WHY as well. Also, I need y'all to tell me what to do. I can put on either of two different necks. I have a mahogany LP neck with white binding, MOP blocks, and a rosewood f/b. I also have a maple Epihpone neck with an Explorer headstock, maple f/b, and dots. If I use the LP neck, I do nothing to it. If I use the Epi, I'll put a thin leopardwood overlay on it. Bear in mind that this is going to have a traditional LP electronics layout, but with a hardtail bridge. This guitar is going on consignment in a local shop, so PLEASE tell me what to do from that perspective.

I spent some quality time with this body and my angle grinder. http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip12.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip13.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip14.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...20P90/wip15.jpg The intent was to get the sides as round as possible and to have a massive sloping on almost the whole thing. See that hole where you might expect the jack to be? That part has issues. It was supposed to be a hole for an electrosocket. I'm still working on it.

I lol'd hard. That needs to be McCain's new slogan. McCain is the maverick. Palin has the knobs.

I have a project (non-guitar) that I need small pieces for. You know all those pieces you kept that are too small to do anything with but too bog to throw away? I want them. The pieces I'll be making are in 4 parts: a base and a three-piece top. The base & top will be contrasting woods. The final dimensions of the base are 5/8" think, 5 1/2" wide, and 2" across. The grain needs to run the width of the base. The top is vertical, in three pieces, and all need to be made of the same type of wood. The center piece is 3/4" thick, 3 1/4" wide, and 2 3/4" tall. The two wings are both 1/4" thick, 1 11/16" wide, and 2 7/8" tall. If you have an amount of cutoffs that will fit these dimensions, I'd greatly appreciate cutting a deal with you. I have the ability to re-saw & plane the pieces down to the necessary thickness. Any types of wood will work. My intention is to have one side be "interesting" and the other plain. EG: The test piece I did had a maple base & a chechen top. If it'd help, I can post a picture later. I would right now, but the wife is gone and has the camera with her. PLEASE PM me if you're willing & able to help me out.

Are you meaning on the back where the ferrules are?

Perry & Wez: Can I please ask you to elaborate on your comments?

ORGMORG: I really love ALL of these junkyard specials. Every single one of them has a redneck coolness to them that I really get off on. I've voted for them in the past, but I just can't this month. Seriously, I'd love to be able to think THAT far outside the box. MATT: I'm glad you finished another one. 7 & 8 stringers don't do much for me. Extra points, angles, and bevels are OK, but they don't look right on this one. I think it's too much of a mix of curves & points. I DO like the green, though. CHOPS: The shape does nothing for me. I can't put my finger on it for any constructive criticism either. Sorry. HOOGLEBUG: The shape is great! I agree with Wez on this one - the blackburst is too dark. With the dark wood, the black kind of muddies it up. Other than that, it looks great. MIKE: I like resos anyway. An acoustic is hard enough to build without adding the reso aspect to it. That this one doesn't have all the metal a "normal" reso has really makes it stand out to me. You get my vote this month. DANIEL: I like your Nova shape. Clearly influenced by PRS, but tweaked to your liking. I like the extra touches you put into the neck, specifically the black lines. Those little touches really make things stand out. The finish is a little off to me. The semi-gloss sheen... I'm not sure about it. CRSKmD: Perry said it best. Avengers63: SWEED: It looks more like a bass shape than a guitar. The really long bass horn turns me away from it. I DO think the fret markers are neat. I've never seenthem half-off the fretboard before. PERRY: Like I said for Matt, 7 & 8 stringers don't do anything for me. That graining thing you did is just sick.

400-800 seems to be the concensus on where to start. That being said, you can't go by what someone else starts at because they may not have as heavy or light a hand as you use. The important thing when starting is the first grit needs to level the finish. The grit needs to be aggressive enough to level it out, but not so aggressive that it strips the finish. It's a real balancing act that is really only learned through trial and error.

OK. From THOSE perspectives, it makes sense. For some reason, I had the impression that you were wanting to hot-rod a junker. If you're doing it for a learning experience, then I have NO issues whatsoever. Tim's idea about experimenting with a Vendetta instead of a Saga kit is a decent idea as well.

Neither do I!!!! More power to ya!!! I have one for the step-kids to bang around on. That way, they leave MINE alone. One is my current favorite. Two are in gig bags. One is on a stand. One (acoustic) is in it's case in the corner. I don't know what I'm going to do with the two I'm building for me. We had an idea on what to do with them. Yes, my wife thought of this, so I actually get to do it!!! We're eventually going to get a bumch of nice wall hangers and decorate one wall of the family room with them. She thinks they're too nice to be stuffed in a corner. Plus, SHE gets to show off what I can do when someone comes over. She still thinks I'm pretty neat. I'm sure it'll pass eventually, but I'm gonna get as much out of it as I can while the gettin's good.

I wanted to to a belly cut, but with the chambered body, I was VERY fearful about gouging through it. ROUTING Template/Straightedge - control cavity, wiring channel, neck pocket(later), pups (later) Freehand - chamber, switch hole

body cavity hogged out DANG that made a mess and just took forever to do

I got the sides glued on to one of them tonight. We'll see how it does tomorrow when I take the tape off and inspect it.

The knobs on that Maverick are AWSOME!!!! You can get a covered toggle like that aircraft thing at Radio Shack for a LOT less than what's on that link.