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avengers63

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Everything posted by avengers63

  1. avengers63
    Big question - is it a sanding sealer or a thinned down (washcoat) of shellac? What does the label say it is? Second, what type of oil are you using for the finish?
  2. avengers63
    The only real issue with using sanding sealer is that it sometimes doesn't stick well to finishes. There's a soap-like lubricant added to make it sand easier and not load up the sandpaper as quickly. It's that lubricant that occasionally interferes. Personally, I have used sanding sealer under shellac, lacquer, and poly, and haven't had a problem yet. That's not to say that you won't, just that I haven't... yet. So... if you're worried about even the possibility, what can you do about it? Use a coat of shellac. Shellac is one of those odd finishes that sticks to EVERYTHING. I'm confident that if you laid out the sanding sealer like you wanted, smoothed it out, then laid on a coat of shellac, whatever top coat you use will stick great.
  3. avengers63
    Alright - one down and another jumps up. Actually, the second was there all along, but I failed to notice it somehow. The neck works now. I honestly don't know what I did, and I'm not looking into it too hard. If it works, that's good enough. Now, there's a significant buzz. It stops when I touch the cable. Not the strings, bridge, etc... the metal plug of the cable. On the good side, I REALLY like these pups. They have a hardcore s/c twang to them. They're really bright.
  4. avengers63
    That's what's really weird about this. The bridge works fine. The neck works when the switch is in the center, but not when only the neck is selected. That it would work in one position and not in another is what's confusing about it.
  5. avengers63
    There's nothing wrong with giving it another day if you're unsure about it. There's one extremely important thing to have when building guitars - patience. I had to learn it the hard way, but you cannot rush things. So again, if it doesn't seem like it's been long enough, give it some more time. Going too slow will never hurt anything, but going too fast can easily ruin it all. I wouldn't go green over black. I tried it - you couldn't tell the grain was black at all. FWIW: I used hunter green stain. A dye MIGHT act different, but I can't testify to it.
  6. avengers63
    I'm finishing up a guitar today, and the wiring is a shade off. 2HBs, LP-style wiring. With the 3-position in the middle, the neck pup works. With the switch in the neck position, it's dead. This one makes -ZERO- sense to me. Any advice?
  7. avengers63
    Check the label.
  8. avengers63
    Now THAT'S an investment I'm comfortable making. I'll have to do come serious scrounging, but my brother-in-law has a butt-load of stuff in his garage I could get. I'm sure he has the bits to make this. So, how thick is the wood? If it's 1/8", I can do some experimentation. If it's thinner, it'll have to wait until I'm once again gainfully employed.
  9. avengers63
    I agree with the owner. Steinbergers don't have the visuals, the feel for natural wood. They're high-tech - all glossy, sleek, chrome & black, etc.
  10. avengers63
    White exterior latex house paint.
  11. avengers63
    Not really. It's done all the time on maple/maple necks with the f/b incorporated. Ever notice the skunk stripe in the back of the neck?
  12. avengers63
    I've wanted a new neck for my Steinberget for a long time. The stock neck is just way too narrow for me. Maybe someday... if I ever build my own necks. Or if someone wants to work out a trade.
  13. avengers63
    From all of the reviews I read, the fine-tuning takes a couple of hours. Supposedly, the bearings are dissicult & quirky, the table has a 3-way adjustment that takes forever to get right, the bearings themselves are crap, and the factory blade is crap. Overall, the reviews were pretty favorable. The main complaint ofter it was all set up is that Sears didn't carry blades for it and that the miter gague wasn't included. Personally, I'm only interested in how well it resaws 6"-7" stock, and how straight the cut is. The motor looks a bit underpowered, but the lower speed setting is supposed to add torque to compensate.
  14. avengers63
    Cut up anything thick yet? I read a bunch of the reviews on Sears' website. There's something like 50 of them, so I got a pretty good feel for what folks thought of it. I'm right on the lip of getting it, but I wanted another 1st-hand testimony before I took the plunge.
  15. avengers63
    My two daughters are named Sam & Alex. If we would have had sons, I'd have pushed for Pat & Chris. Sam was the first kid. When she was pregnant with the second, I jokingly suggested Ella for a girl's name. "These are our daughters: Sam & Ella." Say it out loud a few times.
  16. avengers63
    I don't know, but I'd wager that they're self-enforced and on the honor system, which means absolutely nothing.
  17. avengers63
    John, Check out Woodcraft. They have a Steel City unit on sale this month for $229.00. A friend just picked one up and it seems to work quite well. It also has washable filters and a 5 year warranty. Just my .02 cents. Mike Thanks, buddy. We have a Woodcraft store in St. Louis, too.
  18. avengers63
    There are official grading guidelines out there. The problem as other's have pointed out is that it's purely subjective and dependant on the vendor. IIRC, A is supposed to me spotty & faint figure that is basically surface only. AAAAA is supposed to be deep figuring that runs edge to edge and all the way through. I've found A & AA-grade flamed maple at Home Depot.
  19. avengers63
    I'm in the market for an air filtration system for my workshop. I'm looking at the Jet model that is suspended from the ceiling. It goes for $330-$375. Cost is a major consideration, as is space conservation and effectiveness. Any input, suggestions, and testimonies are appreciated. We're trying to avoid cutting a hole in teh basement wall and putting in an exhaust fan.
  20. avengers63
    +1 So long as it's a glue designed to work on wood, I'm sure it'll be fine.
  21. avengers63
    I discussed this "torch & pipe" thing with the wife. Basically, there's no way in he11 she's going to let me play with fire and wood anywhere near my workshop which is filled with sawdust and boards. Maybe in the summer... in the driveway... with a hose nearby... but not inside. Ever. Period. So what's the realistic working time once it's all softened up?
  22. avengers63
    this one is awesome, did u make it? I made the first two. that is amazing. i hope i can be able to do something like that someday. that headstock is also orgasmic! The only way to make that happen is to get in there and work. But before you do that, READ. Seriously - read everything you can get your hands on about building electric guitars and basic woodworking. Then read it all again. Then go back and read the bits that apply directly to what you're wanting to do. Point taken? :D
  23. avengers63
    An Avenger is pretty cool. I've been accused of stealing from the Dean Cadillac. The Retrotron is great. This one is stolen - from the Danelectro bowtie. An SG will always be cool. But... it has to be heritage cherry with the double-sided pickguard. But nothing topps the ***???? of a Teuffel Birdfish.
  24. avengers63
    Not surface mount. I have room for a phase switch next to the sliders - any thoughts?
  25. avengers63
    So it's just a matter of getting the metal hot enough - no water involved. When it's hot enough, you just work the wood over the pipe gently until it bends? 1) How long does it take to get the wood up to temp? 2) What's the working time once it's pliable? 3) How thin does the wood need to be? I can plane it down to just over 1/8" myself. If there's no moisture involved, would a heat gun get it hot enough? It bends formica and binding quickly, but that's plastic - wood is another story.
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