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avengers63

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Everything posted by avengers63

  1. avengers63
    neck scarfed & leveled out headstock to thickness
  2. avengers63
    Thinking about it for a moment, tapering before slotting would make it more difficult to ensure it's square.
  3. avengers63
    covering the headstock
  4. avengers63
    Perhaps an ounce of my thought process would help. Or it could damage your psyche beyond repair. FACTS & EXPERIENCE I have a Stew-Mac fret slot miter gauge I got on eBay. Aligning the fret slots dead-parallel when gluing would be unbelievably hard considering human error & the board sliding around when clamping. Sanding & polishing (like with micro-mesh pads) over the slots would shorten the life of the pad by increasing the likelihood of the pad catching on the slot & tearing just a bit. If the board is slotted to a precise depth with the S/M miter box THEN radiused, the slots will be shallower on the edge than in the middle. It would seem to me that the board should be glued on, then the whole neck routed to shape, then radiused & polished, then slotted. Please explain to me why this is not the case.
  5. avengers63
    Why in that order?
  6. avengers63
    attaching the fretboard radiusing cutting the fret slots I need the order of operations you use, and why you choose to do them in that order. I think I know what order they should be in, but I want to be sure.
  7. avengers63
    Two words for ya: cor vus The way I tweaked it, it's pretty balanced. A very slight mod of the neck pocket, which would be helped by a set or through neck, would give as much access as any V. FWIW, an SG has pretty good access too. Moving the strap button to the horn is said to solve any balance issues.
  8. avengers63
    The block I made the body core from was 2". The back is 1/4", the top is 1/8". Getting canned in February gave me plenty of time. Even though I'm really enjoying the time, I'd still rather be working. I'm actually working on two others as well without posting any progress pics, and another is on deck.
  9. avengers63
    Chambering a body the easy way
  10. avengers63
    It came with sanding sealer already on it? Strange.
  11. avengers63
    Sanding sealer is known to have issues adhering to finishes. I haven't had any problems yet, but it CAN happen. One of the properties of shellac is that it sticks to ANYTHING. The drawback is that it's the least durable of the film finishes. If you're concerned about adhesion, lay one thin layer of shellac over the sanding sealer, then lay the "real" finish over it. OR you could use shellac as the sealer. Or you could bypass the whole thing and so straight into the finish. Any film finish seals the wood with the first coat. So an important question at this point is why are you using the sanding sealer?
  12. avengers63
    That's what it USED to be. Y'all have only seen the tip of the iceberg with what I've done/will be doing to this thing.
  13. avengers63
    pilot holes drilled scroll saw blade threaded into the hole
  14. avengers63
    That's a blessing in disguise. EVERYONE needs a Corvus in their arsenal. Most just don't know it yet.
  15. avengers63
    Binding makes an electric a little bit classier. I'd say decide if you want it more up-scale or not.
  16. avengers63
    pickup holes routed
  17. avengers63
    Believe it or not, it's not that difficult. Put the tuning peg on as it is, then trace around the washer. Pick out a forstner the same diameter as the washer. Remember that it'll fall just inside the outline. Line it up on the drill press with it stopped, clamp the piece, re-check the alignment in case it wiggled - even 1/16" will throw it off - then drill the hole. Check the depth with the washer before you un-clamp it. Honestly, it's a matter of eyeballing it with a SOLID point of reference and triple checking before drilling.
  18. avengers63
    With the extra thickness only being a couple pieces of veneer, you might not have to recess them any further than the washer. With any luck, the recessing won't be that noticeable.
  19. avengers63
    By the time I'm done with it, it'll never be recognizable as what it used to be.
  20. avengers63
    cause he is paying for something else, thats why! ....and that's the bottom line.
  21. avengers63
    Had I thought of it at the time... Since the heel ended up a little short, I'm considering a couple of dowels through the end, just for a little something extra. I wouldn't glue them in, but they would add some stability.
  22. avengers63
    rounding the heel I know... you've seen these before. I'm posting these here for two reasons: 1) completeness, 2) buy me time to continue working on it.
  23. avengers63
    If the wood is warped beyond usability (which it doesn't sound like it would be), then there's no harm in experimenting. So here's some thoughts & ideas to consider... The greatest waste on the blank is the corners. Cut out the body leaving 1/4" of material past the outline. This might eliminate most of the cupped wood. IF it's still cupped, give it a couple of passes in the planer to flatten it out. Be sure to tale some material off of both sides. Exposing "fresh" wood to air on just one side can cause movement all by itself. Then let it sit for a week or two. If the wood moved before, it might move again.
  24. avengers63
    Until I get my new bandsaw & some good blades for it, there isn't going to be much progress on this one. All I've been able to do so far is make a couple of neck templates - one for this guitar and one for my niece's guitar. I did settle in on a fretboard: the other side of the Guyana Rosewood.
  25. avengers63
    This isn't what you said you're looking for, but I have some Guyana Rosewood I'll soon be able to re-saw & bookmatch. And MAN does the planer not like it.
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