avengers63
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Everything posted by avengers63
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Idunno. I guess we'll find out later, huh.
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After re-reading the tutorials here, re-reading the examples in Hyscock's book, and considering that's been said here, I'll be shaping the back of the neck before fretting. Pics later today.
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Nor it's time to continue the major surgery on the neck. With what I want to do to the inlays, I need to pull the frets. Doing a re-fret will be a valuable learning experience for me, so let's have at it! $3 nipper ground flat = $3 fret puller There wasn't that much in chip-out. Just 3 very small pieces that were immediately glued back in with CA. It'll all smooth over when it's re-radiused.
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I was meaning only level them once, after the back is done. And I didn't want your $0.02 I wouldn't be asking for it. Which I am.
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Good point. A longer scale and a maple neck WILL change things up a bit.
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The LP is mahogany/maple. Going to Warmoth's comparison again, mahogany is about 75% warm. If you're looking for other woods to use than mahogany, take a look at korina/limba or rosewood. Considering the substantial weight and cost of rosewood, limba might be your best bet.
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Well, nothing really. You were wanting to focus on how to mount them, which I already know how to do. I was just a little unclear if the normal HB screws would work or not. They won't. Now be a good drunk and go hit on your girl. Cuz they like it when we're fubar and feeling randy.
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Wouldn't the truss rod take care of that? Alternately, wouldn't I be able to just level them after the back is carved?
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Yes and yes. You got it, but not in the way I was asking. Thanks Dan.
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Outside pics before hitting it with MicroMesh. It's actually looking pretty good at this point, no? And after working my way through the pads to 12,000 grit. Dude... you can see the lawn across the street in the reflection. Tomorrow I think I'll fret it. The reasoning I have for fretting before shaping the back is that it's better to have a flat surface to hammer on than a curved one on blocks. With everything I've read & seen, there's no reason the spokeshave should come anywhere NEAR the ends of the frets, so if I'm careful & take my time, there shouldn't be any issues. Alright... you have until tomorrow morning to change my mind.
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It came out of the clamps this morning. I hit the whole thing with chalk before I started to radius it. I figured "When the chalk is gone, it hit the radius and I can start advancing through the grits. It was a goof theory. Then I brushed away the dust.... and the chalk with it. So I scribbled all over it with a pencil. That worked a LOT better. I used a pencil before every grit up to 1200. Here it is, radiused and ready for some MicroMesh lovin'.
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Sorry if I wasn't clear. I know how to mount them... I was asking specifically about the screws & springs. I have some, but they didn't come with covers, screws, springs, or foam. All of the soap-bar (not dog-eared) covers I find don't come with screws or springs, so I'm asking if they use the same as a regular humbucker, just in a different way.
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Do P-90s use the same height screws & springs as humbuckers?
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4-piece 1/8" bloodwood cap glued on and trimmed Because it was in 4 parts, it took 4 days to glue the dang thing on. I really took my time to line up the grain. All 4 pieces are bookmatched; the center two are adjoining, the outside two are obviously separated by the middle section. You'll see later that when it's all leveled out that the grain really flows nicely from board to board. I actually re-cut the sets: the first pair of sets didn't match up color-wise. These were taken from the same board, so the color is a LOT more consistent.
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According to Warmoth's tone comparison, walnut is about 75% bright, quilted maple is about 80-85% bright.
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gathered everything ahead of time for a change glue in place no such thing as too many clamps, just not enough room to put them all on
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Marking & drilling the holes tools of the trade dots in and leveled with 80-grit
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neck routed to the template headstock shaped at transition point fretboard routed to the template - just laying on the neck at this point After getting a bunch of your thoughts in this thread yesterday (thanks!), I decided to route the f/b to the template before gluing it on. The reasoning is that I can clamp the edges 100% square, thus allowing me to only worry about it sliding in one direction instead of all over the place. I'll probably do this later tonight. Next is actually doing the dots. In my mind it'd be easier to do them now rather then when the f/b is glued on. Probably because since I'm using limba plugs and tapping them into place with a hammer, I'll be drilling all the way through the board.
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Router table set up to cut truss rod channel. I'm officially pissing myself at this point because this is one of those "screw it up and you gotta start with a new blank" spots. Fortunately, it went off without a hitch. All I had to do was re-establish the center line about 1mm over from where it was originally. taper template traced and cut about 1/16" from the line headstock outline in place and then cut
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Corvus Bloody Corvus
avengers63 replied to Dirge for november's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
Copycat. -
No big surprise what's coming next... headstock cap routed to shape
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That's a good point. Maybe I'll gently sand it flush, then use a toothpick to drop some poly just on the limba dots. It should soak in nicely and seal it up and maybe build up just a hint of protection. It should all even out during the radiusing. I could even use the dremel to make the dot just barely concave. Hmmmmm...
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Decided that since I have plug cutters and this will have dot inlays, there's no reason for me to buy dots for the neck. I'll be using white limba for the dots. I just cut about 20 of them with the 1/4" cutter. It puts a slight taper onto it so it can have a really snug fit. Experimenting with a 1/4" & a 7/32 bit, the 1/4" hole lets the plug slide freely & a touch loosely while the 7/32 hole gets a very snug fit. A gentle tap or three with a hammer gets the plug almost flush. No pics, but that's where I am.
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It is. The auction came with the saw, miter box, and 25/25.5 template.
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everything together and ready to slot the fretboard halfway through done That was harder than it needed to be. Apparently, Guyana Rosewood is hard as a rock.
