avengers63

9, maybe 10 if you count the Mahogany body I glued up just last night. You have the same problem I have - what do I do while the glue is drying on this one.

Man, give me a brightly colored BC Rich Gunslinger, some jeans with big holes cut into the legs so the zebra spandex can show through, and a HUGE mullet and I'd be in heaven.

That virtually nobody cared before that happened makes it idol worship. Ooh... someone popular uses it. Suddenly I like it too! If you remember in the 80's, not many people wanted a single HB Strat until Eddie van Halen used one.

My friend, that would be gorgeous.... on some other body style. Do your thing, Drak. It's all good! Ignore my tastes and make the guitar you want to make.

Give it a push/pull with a phase reversal. That oughta take care of any feelings of inadequacy.

Don't get me wrong Drak - I have not one negative thing to say about the thought you put into the design, the craftsmanship, likely outcome based on your history, etc., etc., etc. I simply don't think the V lends itself to anything other than solid paint. It honestly wouldn't matter what woods are used or how pretty they are. The most I'd me likely to do is a plain-grained wood like maple or mahogany with an extremely deep dye - so deep you'd have to get within 10' to see the grain. In my eyes, a V is a metal shape, especially a pointy V. Metal isn't pretty, it isn't blinged out, it isn't wood-porn. It's straight forward, in your face, and aggressive. Wood-porn is pretty, elegant, and classy - everything metal isn't. Again - nothing inherently negative about what you've done with it thus far, it simply isn't for me. As you've said in my posts, that's the way you want it, the craftsmanship will be where it needs to be, so it's all good.

Quit kissin up. You HATE wood-tone guitars.

I have no doubt it'll end up pretty. That being said, I really don't care for wood-porn on a V. In my mind, it doesn't fit the shape. But... to each their own. I remember some comments from folks who thing an in-line headstock on a PRS was blasphemy.

Hmmmmm.... I have this rosewood capped ash body that didn't even get a bid. Maybe a rosewood Strat neck on it with gold hardware. I'd probably want to do a contrasting fretboard, just for something different on the face. Maybe be just plain silly and make it an ash fretboard. I don't recall ever seeing one of those before.

No finish, huh? This is giving me some more motivation to make a neck from some of the guyana rosewood I have. I was wanting to anyway, but a little kick in the pants isn't necessarily a bad thing.

FWIW: Here's what you might be able to expect with a matte balck finish. It's dang easy: level the finish, them spray a couple of LIGHT coats of matte over the top. Before the last coat, you might want to take some 320+ grit and finesse out any nibs or bubbles so that the last coat is 100% even. If you're careful and use light enough coats, you shouldn't have any uneven-ness at all.

It's the Project Guitar mandate: Let no thread more than one page go un-hijacked.

If you watch the video, you'll see that the piece turns and follows the curve of the inlay. This would keep the edges at a relatively constant angle to each other. To make a comparison, look at the cutoff from your initial rough cut of the outline of the body on the bandsaw. You can put the pieces back against the body, but because of the curves, you won't get a perfect fit. You'll still be able to see daylight through the joint. Between the beveling and the thinness of the scroll saw blade, the gap is completely eliminated. Now, it IS an interesting idea to intentionally make the gap wider and fill it with a strip of banding, colored epoxy, recon stone, etc.

I suppose you COULD run the wiring in a loop through the bridge pup route. Just drill two tunnels from the route - one to the cavity & one to the jack.

Geddy Lee, but NOT just because I love Rush (which I do). I never really cared for Sheehan. I always saw him as the dude who wanted to play guitar, but the guys made him play bass instead.

Correct. FWIW: scroll saw techniques Go about halfway down the page to the walnut box with the maple dolphin inlaid into the lid. The first video describes the basic technique of doing inlay with the scroll saw. The important bits start at about the 5-minute mark. Again, I agree that there shouldn't be any gap. A 2-3 degree angle (on 1/4" stock) is not a big issue to ensure that there are no gaps. What you may mot be taking into account in thinking that there won't be any gaps is the kerf of the blade. 1/32" isn't that thick, but it's enough to leave a noticeable gap around a curve. Angling the cut removes the space made by the kerf, ensuring a perfect fit. You simply use packing tape to hold the fibers in place and eliminate tear out. See the above paragraph for the kerf issue. It's PERFECT for making small inlays. I've done f-holes with it, which is dang easy, as well as covers & plates. I use it all the time to make the control cavity on a body that's getting a top. I've even used it to chamber bodies that were to be painted. A back was glued on after the body was chambered.

No... I understand your point completely. I simply feel differently about it than you do.

I agree that it isn't necessary. I'd do it for insurance. I'd only use a 3-5 degree bevel, just like what you use to make a scroll saw inlay.

Probably not. It wouldn't be that hard to add some width from some cutoff. Either that or go to your local shop and meacure the width of the headstock and make that the width of the blank.

That's my thought as well. Doing this with a scroll saw, I'd set the table at an angle so that the edges of the cut would be at a bevel. This would make the joint a LOT more forgiving with matching it up and filling/hiding any small gaps. Granted, there shouldn't be any gaps to hide/fill, but we're humans, not CNC/laser machines. Yea... I HAVE to give this a shot sometime this year.

Good luck finding a 1-piece mahogany blank for an explorer. Normal stock is 2" thick. If you're painting it anyway, there are actually some advantages to having a multi-piece body. Multi-piece blanks have some structural stability that one-piece blanks do not. That being said, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a 1-piece blank, so long as the wood is dry, stable, and straight-grained. The normal blank is +/- 30"x3"x1". If you wanted the heel & tiltback without gluing extra thickness, look for a 2-2.5" thick blank. I got nothing for that one.

Of these two, the 3+3 is the better option. I agree that a Jackson in-line would be much better with this body.

Thanks. I'm guessing you're meaning the matte finish on the Corvus? Wanna know a major reason I went with the matte top coat? So I wouldn't have to buff it out. All I had to do was level it out, then spray on two really light coats of matte finish. It ended up looking pretty cool, but it was borne out of not liking the finishing process. And this is why I've always said that necessity isn't the mother of invention, laziness is.

Or you could swap the pup covers onto pups you know will work together.

I really don't care for finishing or wiring. I really dig the construction & assembly more than anything.