avengers63

Probably. BUT... didn't one of the earliest posts, if not DJ's 1st post, say that more would be learned from fixing this thing than in making a whole new body? It seems to me that learning by fixing has become the whole point of the project.

Here's a thought for the dowels.... put them where the markers will be. If they're smaller in diameter than the inlay, you'll completely drill them out when making the hole for the inlay. So what if the whole thing gets drilled out of the F/B because it's only for alignment purposes anyway. But... would the truss rod channel be right where the other side of the dowel is?

You've got most of your info straight, although the original question was about the tuner you would use to check tuning while intonating. Right on both accounts. I know how to check and adjust the intonation, it's the fine-accuracy tuner I'm looking for. So far, there's one vote for a Korg CA-30. Any other suggestions?

I'm looking into getting a more accurate tuner so that I can accurately intonate my guitars. All I have tight now is an old Boss TU-6 (needle) and the one that's incorporated into my Digitech RP50. Both are just accurate for stage tuning, bot not for strring intonation. What would your suggestions be?

Just be wary of sanding too much on the F/B. I've read reports from some Korean necks & other things bought on eBay that have extensive inlay work. The inlay is usually VERY thin, and not fitted well. No, this is clearly not the same thing, but it IS a cheaply-made Chinese thing. They might have used that crappy thin inlay junk that the Korean dudes use. Who knows - my fears could be completely wrong, and I sincerely hope they are. Just be careful not to sand too much, just in case.

The rings don't look right to me because the grain goes opposite of the wings. I can't define why the TRC doesn't look right, but I agree with you that it's a little off. You're right too that walnut for these pieces would look good. Maple wouldn't be bad, but walnut is probably the better choice. It'd match up well with the stripes in the zebra.

I get ya. Let's do one better then and put the button on the top of the headstock.

Not yet. It's not an odd camera angle - the holes weren't well planned out. After the test-fit, if the strings don't clear the posts, what would you suggest? Could I put in some kind of vertical post for them to go around?

1) I wholeheartedly approve of working through part of the learning curve on a kit. I worked wonders for me. 2) The Saga kits are cheap for a reason. I wouldn't bother putting good parts on it. It'd be like putting spinners on a Toyota Yaris. If you already have the parts, save them up for your "real" build.

That would be ANOTHER reason to plan their placements carefully, as I said to do...

I have NO clue how or why it browned. It was thick in some places, and that's where it browned, but even after leveling it out, this thinning those thick spots, they remained dark. I'll be back next week. There's just waaaaay too much to do to have time for anything... you know... fun. Bloodwood & Longhi LPjr front for saleback for sale neck 1 WIP 07 The two "for sale" pics are the front & back of the body dry as it was pictured in the listing. There were "wet" pix as well, but I'm not seeing the need to post them. Neck 1 is a shot of the neck he sent me. I'll be rounding out the points, installing the nut, and inlaying my "J" logo. I'll also be making a bloodwood TRC. As a result of the work, the headstock will need to be re-finished. From the other two pics, I'm pretty confident that the F/B is bloodwood. It looks & feels like it's a pretty well made neck. With the gold hardware, this thing is really going to look great. I'll be making a back plate as well, but I'm undecided whether it'll be longhi or bloodwood. I DO know that both the back plate and TRC will be held on with rare earth magnets.

Or a wife. But then I get to immitate Tim Allen. He said whenever his wife monkeyed around with his tools, she left them smelling like her. So he re-scented them.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...3/necksback.jpg Just because some of y'all were doubting what you could find on eBay. Two necks for +/- $80 shipped. The Westone has some wear, but is still in good shape. The Japanese instruments are known for their quality, so I figgerd this was a decent prospect. As you'd expect, there is some chipping and f/b grime to be addressed, but it's nothing major. The frets still have plenty of life left in them. The tuners have a little age showing - little spots of rust, and one isn't very tight - but they'll do the job until they can be upgraded. That it came with the tuners was the real bargain here. The only thing that could be viewed as "major" is the locking nut. I don't use a trem (ever), soI'll need to replace the nut with a non-locking type. That will leave a little cosmetic repair from the shelf that's left. The Danelectro is brand-new. It was parted out from a (presumably) factory second. There is a paint chip on the bottom of the heel, which will be totally hidden when it's in place. Other than screw holes for the original tuners and the neck screws, it is a brand-new neck. It was made in China, but you can't really tell from my perspective. Overall, it's the quality of neck you'd expect to see on a $250-$300 guitar: sevicable, but not spectacular. Personally, I think the bottom line to look for in hardware is "Could I gig with this". The answer to both necks is "Yes". So, for $80, I got two necks, one just average, one very above average and with usable tuners but needing some attention. I don't think you could argue against this being a pretty decent deal.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=35577&hl= Let's not forget the Cyclops Demon Pear.

You don't need one. There's no question that they're more stable than a 1/4" model, and they commonly have more power, but you can do all you need to do (for a guitar) with a 1/4" router. A bandsaw, however, is a bit of a necessity.

That being said, there's nothing wrong with using a biscuit or three. With the width of the butt joint, the biscuits probably won't help any. BUT... they won't hurt either. Just plan carefully so they won't show when the body is cut out or be ing the middle of a pup/trem/neck rout. Let us know how it works out for you if you decise to use them. I had a thread about this in the tools section a week or two ago, so I'm particularly interested.

I was thinking that too. Odd that you'd include the knot. An extra 30 seconds of planning might have prevented that. Unless that's what you wanted.

Tulip & Re-Paint I buffed out both bodies & headstocks yesterday while watching the NFL games. I'm 100% unsatisfied with them. The poly discolored in places when it was being leveled. It's pretty noticable on the yellow Tulip body. At this point, I've been painting these two things for probably 4 months - I'm done. They're not getting re-done AGAIN. Both of them have been done twice now. I'm basically sick of working on them at this point. I'll post come pics probably next week. I'm too disgusted with them to mess with it right now. I'll be doing the final buffing with some Meguairs and call it a day. Bloodwood LPjr The dude who won the bloodwood & longhi LPjr body got a helluva deal. The final bid was $40 - the reserve, which was set to cover all costs. So I broke even. So be it - those are the chances you take. But there's good news. He wants me to finish up & assemble his whole guitar for him. He's mailed me his neck & some hardware. I'll be gathering the remainder and passing the cost on to him. I'm pretty excited that I get to finishit all up for him. I'll post some pics as soon as I can. The neck is mahogany w/ bloodwood f/b, gold hardware, TOM bridge, string-through ferrules. The pups he sent be are on the cheap side - Epiphone bridge & Dean neck - but if that's what he wants, so be it. No progress on anything else so far. I've been.... distracted.

$900!!!!! Good job!

I'm with them. The aesthetics aren't what's wrong with it, it's the craftsmanship. Re-fretting, fixing the stud, probably new pups and some other hardware.... I think there's more here that's salvageable than you realize. If the neck is straight, the body is solid, and the finish decent, this turd could be polished up nice. The good thing is that you won't have paid much for the turd to begin with. I kinda like Chibanez. Were it a Chinese strat, I might suggest Crapcaster.

So... why not do some other body style instead of regurgitating the same thing?

It's also a good idea to have one bit with the bearing on the top and one with it on the bottom. You may think you'll be able to get away with just one, but it wouldn't take long to be in a spot where you'd need the other. Also, I'd suggest getting one looooong bit - the ones with the bearing next to the shank. As close to 2" as possible. This would be the main one used for the outside of the body.

I'm sure that lacquer is just fine. Some folks here use automotive color & clear all the time without any issues. Just show off some pics when you're all done.

Gimme some time. I'm still a rookie. I need to completely master one thing before jumping on to the next.

separated at birth :D