avengers63

Can't help ID it without pics.

That's a whole lot of great feedback. So the concensus is that I didn't do it wrong, I just could have done it better. I know what needs to be done in the future to make it better: a deeper shelf on the edge of the body and a "taller" carve. Thanks for all the input.

From the last pic, the bottom looks like it was all pushed over to the right. If that's the way you intended it, mission accomplished. Perhaps if the top were pushed to the left it's be more balanced visually. It's a concept from visual design classes. People need balance. Even those who abhor even, paralell symetry need a balance to even things out. There needs to be a certain level of symmetry or balance to a composition. Unbalanced weight is just that - unbalanced. Lack of balance in a composition throws the whole thing off. For uneven balance, consider the explorer. There is a LOT more body at one corner than the other. It looks right because the trebel horn sticks out for a visual balance. The two horns on a Strat or PRS are like that too. One is longer, but there's something to balance out the weight. Like I said, the work looks top notch. It's just lopsided visually.

The work you've done looks REALLY nice. But... Looking at it more from when you started, the bottom looks unbalanced to me.

I agree... that's one deep carve. It really grabs your attention. Is the trem cavity lined up right? It looks off to me.

While the Avenger prototypeand Bloodwood LPjr are nearing either completion or waiting for the finish to cure, I'm starting another one. Yea... it's just another PRS. Try not to get too excited. Anyway, here's the rundown: Ash body - 1.5" thick Westone neck - 25.5 scale Khaler trem 2 P-90 pups - maker undetermined, but NOT atrec/GFS 3-position toggle 1 volume, 1 tone MAYBE a push/pull for a phase switch chrome hardware The input jack undetermined, but leaning towards a Strat. Thebody may not be thick enough to support it, though, so I may need to go with a side-mount. Likewise, it may be too thin for a push/pull, so a mini-toggle would be in order. I wanted it thin and lightweight. I figured 1.5" was about as thin as I could get away with. I ordered some water soluable dyes last week. I'm going to dye the body either green or orange. I'll top it off with lacquer. Here's the first WIP pics. The body has been shaped and given a 0.5" roundover. Later, it'll get a forearm contour and belly cut. I was an inch from making it a HSS setup, top-routing it, and making a P/G for it. It'd have ended up a Strat/PRS hybrid. In the end I decided against it. Still, the body has a all of the Strat personality, but with a PRS shape. Add in the Gibson-style P-90s, and it's a little bit of all three.

I have NO idea what went wrong. I measured, re-measured, then double and triple checked EVERYTHING along the way. Every last detail was based on the centerline and vertiably idiot-proofed. It would seem that I'm an exceptionally gifted idiot because the neck pocket, pup routes, and bridge positioning are nowhere in line with each other. Here's the scoop - this is beyond my knowledge of how to fix. Even if someone explained it in graphic detail, I'm extremely frustrated with the whole thing right now, so I know I'm NOT going to mess with it anymore. Ever. So... if someone is able to fix the body and wants it, PM me. All I'd ask is material cost and shipping. If you want the hardware too, I'd only want what I paid for it, and shipping to your house. All together, we're probably talking about +/- $150 or so.

Wood Delivery I finally got in the two tops I got on eBay from Fraiser Valley. They took a while clearing customs. Anywhy, here they are. Mr. Happy Face quilt top The first is an interesting spalt. The edges are flamed, the interior forms whay I'm calling Mr. Happy Face. I'm thinking this needs to go on something really wide - like a 335-ish body - to get all the figuring possible. It's thick & stable, too. The left was moistened to show the difference. The other is a mid-grade quilt. It's just BARELY wide enough to go on a PRS. I see some binding in it's future. The top was moistened. Avenger Prototype The headstock is fully inlaid. The whole thing is being finished right now. The whole thing got a sealer coat of shellac, which was steel-wooled nice and smooth. The back of the neck has 3 more coats, the headstock is going up to 5. headstock inlaid with some finish Bloodwood & Longhi LPjr I'm making a bloodwood cap for the headstock. Here's the holes all lined up and drilled. I made it big enough for the entire tuning peg to be recessed - washer and all. The next step is either make the inlay with the new scroll saw or shape it. wip20 wip21

What's the difference between a P90 and a P100?

That Ben Crowe isn't what I was going for. I was looking for more of a traditional Gibson style carve.

There's something about the shape that isn't right, but I don't know what to do. I've read the tutorial a few times, but apparently something just isn't clicking. I'm REALLY close to having it, but something is missing. Can y'all point me in the right direction or give up some much needed advice?

I missed putting that bit in there. I was thinking acoustic bracing. If the top were clued to the core, that would completely defeat the purpose we're looking for. Here's a thought - with a solid core going 3/4 of the way through the body, I bet the balance would be like poo.

+1 for the fake books. when you're first starting up, you need to actually be able to play something, not just learn theory. +1 to the theory books. You'll need to know WHY you're doing it that way, not just HOW to do it. So do them both at the same time.

The picture is a little wonky, but I think you have the idea. The whole thing would be made like a semi-acoustic so the top can vibrate. The neck-through would not need to go all the way to the end of thebody, but I suppose it could. I'm thinking it should stop just after the pickups. The pups would mount directly to the wood, reducing or eliminating THEIR feedback. The top would "float" 1/4" - 1/2" above the core so it would have all of the acoustic vibrations possible. The bridge is mounted ot the top, not the solid core. A piezo or acoustic pup would then get all of the acoustic sounds.

It's hard to get excited about another flame-top LP. That isn't to say the work isn't nice, because it is. It's just a matter of "been there, done that". That being said, I'd be excited if I were doing it for myself.

You suck. Seriously, builds like you churn out on a regular basis make me sick. I can only hope to be as good as you are someday.

Sale Bodies Belly-cut & forearm contour on the PH/YH/Sap PRS. I was going for some artistic reveals on every bevel made. http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...01/101_2199.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...01/101_2200.jpg 1st attempt at a true carved-top. I've read through the tutorial a dozen times. Any input ot suggestions on how to refine it is desperately wanted. It's not a bad start, but it's not quite there yet. http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...01/101_2203.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...01/101_2204.jpg http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/av...01/101_2201.jpg I have two ash blanks glued up. One is for the strat I've been comissioned to do, the other is most likely for me. I probably won't be able to make any progress at all this weekend. Tonight is a concert, tomorrow is an annual back yard fish-fry, Sunday is my day to chill and watch NFL all day.

Why not? If there are any stiffness issues with poplar for a neck, the maple would surely work towards counteracting it. It'd look pretty bland, but that can easily be covered with stain or paint.

I'd wager he's been taking it quite liberally. 12oz at a time.

Why not just get a soundhole pup? Or were you meaning to put a pup from a solidbody in the soundhole... If that's the case, you'd probably have a war with the feedback. Once that got under control, it'd probably sound like a jazz guitar.

Bloodwood & Longhi LPjr Gluing on the nut and minor re-shaping of the headstock. Sale Bodies This is my first attempt at an access bevel. It was surprisingly easy. It took about as long to smooth it out with some 40-grit as it did to carve it away with a microplane. Weather permitting, tonight I take it into the driveway and put on a forearm contour and belly cut. Also, but not pictured, the other PRS body gor routed for 2 HBs and a lip dor the carve. It'll get some angle-grinder love tonight as well. In other news, I've been comissioned my a dude at Guitar Center to make him an ash strat body. I'm not going to make any strat bodies to try and sell because they're a dime a dozen. But... he came up to me and asked me "How much". Easy money. Future Planning DeArmond gold foil "moustache" pups stamped "1966" on the back. These things are nearly perfect. Not hardly a scratch on them, no pitting, long leads, VERY shiny still. I'm more than a little excited. These are going into a hollow-bodied something. I haven't decided yet. I won't be able to get to it until next year sometime, so there's plenty of time to decide. Also, I'm going to make an ash PRS H-S-S body for myself. It'll get mated up with the Westone neck. I'm trying to get a used Khaler for it as well. I may dye it green or orange. Of course, who knows when it'll all get put together....

Thanks. The dude I'm finishing it for sent me a Dean neck & Epiphone bridge. Those wouldn't have been MY choices, but it's not my guitar. I'm NOT being dismissive or insulting in any way, but..... If you're asking those sorts of beginner questions, you should get Melvin Hyssock's book “Make Your Own Electric Guitar”. That will hold the answers to MANY of the questions you're likely to have. We here consider it the bible of electric guitar lutherie.

Shim up the heel in the neck joint. I use cut up business cards. Note cards would work just as well. It's a trial & error method to see how much shimming is necessary. With a Bigsby on that thing, I don't envy the process.

I don't see why not. Plastic binding is glued onto wood bodies all the time, so it's at minimum possible. That being said, I'm not the one to tell you how to do it. IMHO, I wouldn't go with a wood p/g, even if it matched the top. A solid color (black or cream) would be a much better contrast. If you were able to find a fancy one with extra binding to match what you're doing to the body would be that much nicer. Little details like that can make all the difference in the world.

Why would you use burl on the headstock when it's nowhere else on the guitar? There's nothing to tie it to visually. I'd be concerned that it would look out of place. Another thought is: let's say you CAN introduce it elsewhere. Would the figuring in the burl be in competition with the flames top? Quite possibly. This could be an opportunity to introduce more burl. Back the burl with some thin stock and bind the whole thing. Otherwise, maybe a tortise-shell or cream. I like the idea of repeating the plastic colors elsewhere on the body. EG: p/g, knobs, switch tip, tuner buttons, TRC, pup rings, etc. It ties things together visually. In any event, I like the Gibson style "elevated" p/g's for this type of build. That blows, and I know exactly how you feel. Can you make a mounting ring of sorts for the switch? That'd be a LOT easier than plugging the hole, and it'd look better in the long run.