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avengers63

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Everything posted by avengers63

  1. avengers63
    I'm in the long-term planning stage of a project I'll be working on in the Spring. I want to do an Avenger body and do multiple layers of binding. As you know, there are some serious curves on the trebel horn. I'm considering using maple for the binding. The question is how easy does it bend? If it's not very flexable, how do you bend it? Is any special tool needed to heat & bend it?
  2. avengers63
    FWIW: In my experience, there are two things that significantly effect sustain - mass and rigidity. Everything else is sales rhetoric or personal playing style.
  3. avengers63
    I agree with this bit: Other than that, I completely disagree. I found them VERY easy to use. They're not a real timesaver in comparison to a router - they take a LOT longer. BUT... they eliminate the tearout around the curves and do not burn the wood. They Do require some jiggery to use a template, but it's well worth the effort. Apparently, they didn't work too well for Guitar Player. You'll find that with every tool. I'm not going to discount his opinions or experiences, but I do respectfully disagree.
  4. avengers63
    Seymour Duncan's website has a GREAT section on wiring diagrams. I can't say if you'll be able to find that exact one, but then again you might. All of their diagrams are well illustrated, printable, and free. They're always my first place of reference for wiring diagrams.
  5. avengers63
    PLEASE DON"T TAKE THIS THE WRONG WAY...... When I started playing, I bought a cheap Memphis guitar. (FWIW: Memphis was a low-grade brand made by Westone.) I wanted to put a Chandler neck on it, some good hardware, and some DiMArzip pups in it. The dude at my guitar store asked me straight-up: Why are you trying to polish a turd? You'd be MUCH better off putting that money into a better instrument than trying to make that one good. Take it for what it is, don't expect too much out of it, and upgrade later. So I'll ask you the same thing: Why are you trying to polish a turd?
  6. avengers63
    That happened to me on my first one too. Seeing you do it makes me feel a LOT better. This is also why the test fit is so important to do BEFORE doing any finishing. These hard-learned mistakes will serve you well in the future. Listen to what these guys are telling you. They're putting you on the right track.
  7. avengers63
    Control cavities hollowed out and back given 1/2" radius roundover. Next is to hog out the rest of the body chambers. It's a pity to waste all of that wood just grinding it up.
  8. avengers63
    I'm with Mick on this one. There's no way there was a Tonepros bridge on a $80 guitar. I won't say it didn't LOOK like one, but it just isn't possible. But let's not belabor the point. The new bridge didn't line up on the old posts. I'm with Mick on this one too. Why didn't you try the posts that came with it? OR... did you try those and THEY didn't line up with the bridge when they were put into the old holes? If the holes aren't lining up with the new bridge, then plug the old ones and re-drill.
  9. avengers63
    That top looks almost black from the pics. I like the way the body is swept forward. The points aren't my thing, but I do like the bevels.
  10. avengers63
    I have so many things going on at once.... I seriously NEED to have about a week off from my job so I can go get some of these things done. There are 3 non-guitar projects waiting to be finished up, and another 2 to be started. One of those two is an assembly-line project that is likely to have 6-10 finished pieces. Then there are 4 guitar projects, and another one in the planning. This isn't to mention the sale bodies I need to continue to make. There are no less than 4 od those waiting in the wings. I have two bodies that didn't sell, so I'll be putting trem routes in them and trying again, so there's some time there too. Yea... I need some time off so I can get some stuff done.
  11. avengers63
    After reading your suggestions and doing some homework of my own, I came to the conclusion that Peterson was unreasonable. I'll be using this tuner for precicely one thing: setting the intonation. I have 2 other tuners that are plenty good enough for routine stage tuning. So, after looking into a great number of tuners, I settled in on the Korg LCA-120. It's plenty accurate for intonation. I found one for $60 shipped, so it fit into my budget, too. After getting it in yesterday, I set the intonation on the three guitars that needed it. It worked great. So, this is basically a heads-up that there is a reasonably priced alternative.
  12. avengers63
    DUDE! Those are some huge caps! What's the low-down on them?
  13. avengers63
    SPECS BODY chambered ash body flat leopardwood cap black top binding belly cut bass-side f-hole NECK maple epiphone neck w/explorer headstock maple f/b black dot inlays leopardwood veneer on headstock HARDWARE all black hardware Wilkinson tuners 2 Aretc humbuckers standard LP wiring I bought an Epiphone neck for this project. I'm using all of the hardware fron the Zebrawood capped LP to make this one. I started to hog out the control cavity, but I switched gears mid-stream and started doing something else. It'll still be there Wednesday. Unless I work on one of the OTHER 4 projects I have going on. This one is going up on consignment. I need to have this one done by the middle of November for the Christmas shopping season.
  14. avengers63
    I'm still looking into alternates for the countertop edging. If sonething doesn't pop up soo, I'll be going with the white or black binding. Chrome P/G? Metalworking is a bit beyond me. Plus I don't think it'd look right with what I'm going for. No, the chrome should be on the edges. Here's the bodies as they are right now.
  15. avengers63
    I finally got the trem out for the Kahler done. I started on the trebel horn bevel with the drill & microplane, but the battery died before I could finish it. I'm still waiting for the dyes to come in.
  16. avengers63
    This is the last guitar I'll be posting progress pics on in this thread. When it's done, I'm letting the thread die. Bloodwood & Longhi LPjr I have the headplate glued on and the TRC cut out. They both have the first coat of lacquer on. Fron here, it's finishing up laying on the lacquer and letting it cure.
  17. avengers63
    My pups are Gretch, the ones going on consignment are Artec. For the p/g, it'll be w/b/w. I'm going to do something strat-like in that it'll hold both pups and the electronics. I'm still working on the exact shape, but it'll be retro-styled. It'll cover more real estate than the dano's for no other reason than I'll need to have the whole of both pups surrounded with it.
  18. avengers63
    hehehehehehehehe tool porn
  19. avengers63
    I'm just thinking about the economics. But... if the customer wants it that way and is willing to paying for it, they can have whatever they want.
  20. avengers63
    I'd love to make a doubleneck sometime in the future. The far, distant future. I'm loving that veneer. It's about a foot thick. I like quilts SOOOO much more than flames. Acutally, I really have a thing for highly figured woods period. Burls, quilts, spalts, crazy grain patterns... the odder the better.
  21. avengers63
    buffer DANG I loves me some burl. So... since burl is REALLY expensive, wht didn't you resaw a chunk off, bookmatch it, and have a lot left over for other guitars?
  22. avengers63
    +1 +2 It's interesting that you clamped the top down with tape. Why not clamps?
  23. avengers63
    It seems that the forstner bit I use to hog out the cavities may be getting dull. How long do yours tend to last? Also, has anyone ever used a Drill Doctor to sharpen their bits? If so, how 'bout some input. Woud it work on a Forstner, or only a "normal" drill bit?
  24. avengers63
    buffer
  25. avengers63
    buffer Those sharks are pretty cool. I'm anticipating the burl being dyed a sea-green/turquoise blue combo to represent water.
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