ray
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Posts posted by ray
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I wish the Aussie flag looked as cool! I've wanted to do an Aussie flag guitar for a while but I cannot seem to get an image in my head that will look great.
personally i reckon the aussie flag looks very cool - but to go way cool the eureka flag is the one
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well done mate i love it
bahaus meets art deco kind of feel in the design
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there you go mate - now you got a decent office guitar
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its easy to beat yourself up over this kind of stuff and destroy a guitar that doesn't meet your preset notions as to what it should be
put it together string it up and remember all the stuff this one taught you - use it as an office beater or whatever for a few months and see if it holds together - if it does, move it on for a reasonable price - i am sure someone will love it to death for reasons you can't imagine - or even better find a young player who needs and cant afford a decent guitar and give it away - i bet this one will be a long way better than the crap hanging on the wall of the local music shop
btw maybe you should forget about the limba and move it on -
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most forums have the facility to modify posts after posting - reasons include bad wording, spelling, further info or clarity
had a look around but can't seem to find out how to edit my posts or topic
thanks
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have this guild dreadnought here with a little work required on the frets, action etc
it has some playing wear on the top to be repaired - the finish has been worn through in a couple of spots - the areas are roughtly palm sized
the guitar looks a little worn - to my eye a well played guitar has its own beauty
my gut feeling is intervene as little as possible in order to maintain the beautiful tone of this guitar -
it is finished in a matte surface lacquer which could be nitro or shellac - more likely the former
i am reticent to put anything on the surface [worn spots] as there is no moisture barrier
any one have some advice on a way of treating the worn spots??
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this one has been a bit of a departure from my usual builds - it has taken a while - building in a busy repair & service workshop has its challenges
i only get to my builds when the pressure is off and these days that time is becoming harder to find
i always loved offset bodies, trems and humbuckers so this one has all 3 of those features
it is based on the jazzmaster / surfcaster type of shape but a bit smaller - it is quite a small guitar - bright and punchy tone
Specs
• Body: Top bound and chambered- Queensland maple cap, victorian ash core, Maple binding.
• Finish - The wood is polished to a satin gloss and sealed with top grade sealing oil for a very natural feel.
• Neck: Victrorian ash with Indian rosewood board.: 25.5”scale - 12"" radius C profile -
• Tuners: Gotoh locking mini's
• Pickups: Handwound custom made Brierley PAF set - uncovered.
• Bridge: Wilkinson floating 2 point trem - stainless steel saddles, nickel steel trem block
• Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware
• Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector
• Weight: 2.9 kg - 6.4lbs
• Serial number 018-100411
pics
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i am sure someone round here has used one of these and may have found the same as i have
the arm is just too high off the bridge - it slides in and screws onto an allen screw that is installed from under the bridge
the arm istelf has been drilled and tapped from inside [reverse of fender's]
do i really have to cut this arm short and lose the thread?
or is it possible to back the allen screw out allowing the arm to slide in further
i tried this but it is in so tight i can't budge it with a normal size key
possibly locked in so it cant screw out via action from above
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I think, it's heavy weight guitar.
Fat sound?
the guitar is lightweight at just under 6 pound
fat sound mmmm yeah
wound back it is clear and bright wind it on and it is thick and meaty with an edge that slices through a dense mix
the pickups really are somerthing else and are hand wound by Mick Brierley
in adelaide - they are his vintage modern humbuckers
sorry about the lack of tool pix for you workshop addicts
i run a workshop blog on my website if you care to take a peek
alittle more here
thanks for the positive comments - it is much appreciated
i often call by here for inspiration - the builders who post here are doing remarkable work and i like the fact that posters sometimes get stuck in with positive criticism
on most boards you get "aaahhh its wonderful" posts or no replies
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Hi all - i have lurked here for quite some time and never posted
i won't post all the pics of bits of wood and machines as there is nothing in the process that hasn't been covered here already
a conservative project by the measure of many who post here, this one is my 17th effort -
a great little screamer - I have had it out on shows several times and it is particularly awesome combo with my 59 deluxe
note the heavy duty [3mm] recessed neck plate - a liitel something I have found adds a lot in tone
The guard btw is optional - mainly there to protect it as it is a try out guitar - see last pic for the naked look
Vintage style 1 piece maple neck 10" radius medium frets
Walnut top [4mm]
Mahogany core
Maple binding
shaller heads
gotoh hardtail strat bridge
Brierly Vintage modern Pickups
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Those speedbor bits are horrible for precision work, as Avenger said they pull through the timber way too quickly, I would avoid them for guitar work.
Everything is looking as precise as usual around here, no comment required other than a well done and get a wriggle on. I'm getting old watching this build.
here we call em auger bits
pull straight into the timber real quick - slow speed and powerfull drill required
great for fence posts or construction work
crap for guitars and other light wood work
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using a point fence is way better than a normal tablesaw type fence
use a table saw type fence an you will fine out all about blade drift when you ruined a couple pieces high dollar wood
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i use a makita 1/4 sheet palm sander
in benedetto's book he recomends using a 1/4 sheet palm sander
just make sure you don't move too quick, be thorough, use fresh paper and use every grade grit you can get
beyond 1500 you need to be using cutting compound
oh make sure you have a good solid thickness of well cured lacquer
also you will still needa do the edges by hand
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the most valuable telecasters of all were made of pine - a cheap softwood scorned by instrument makers
i made a pine tele and it sounds real good - i will make some more of pine - many like the tone you get off a pine tele
also many fine hollowbody guitars have top and bottom plates made of maple ply - think gretsch
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its butt ugly man
i dont think you can do anything to pretty that up
the flame maple guard adds to its "unappeal" so keep it
may as well go all out and go for the ugliest build on the forum
its in the class of that tele on tdpri made out of composite flooring
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no it aint a tele
but mmm fun to play i bet
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Schaller's 3D is a handy bit of kit. Each saddle's adjustable for height and spacing and it can be used for no angle or some angle with the shim provided.
+1 on that
this bridge is a good choice for a 1st build as it has a deep throw on the intonation, has sideways saddle adlustment, mounts with 3 screws to the body and is back loaded. the saddles also lock. it comes with a shim as batfink says so you can have it high or low depending how your neck sits
it gives wide tolerances with placement unlike the recessed TOM or even strat hardtail with the hassle of string through body
technically very simple setting it up
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#7 or #8 jointing plane is all you need
a magnetic [rare earth] fence helps
have your cutter honed dead flat across the cutter edge
your #5 jack is likely to have a slight upward curve
a decent jointing plane will cost nearly as much as a power jointer
unless you can find a 2nd hand one in good nick
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hey dude
that guitar is killer
you gonna have a lotta fun with it both makin an playin
i betcha you gonna blow all them old fuddie duddies away once you get it crankin
more strength to your arm
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you better off payin higher money for good wood from reputable dealers
seal the ends with wax and set the piece aside for a year in a warm dry area before using
in the meantime buy a blank from USACG or warmoth
after you finish a guitar or two your brazil mahogany will be good to go if it dont split
warping or cupping as its known will machimne out
you get what you pay for
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nice chunk of wood there dude
btw i would recomend using heavier material for ur template - i find 12mm mdf good and cheap - the 6mm will be a bit floppy for general use - finish the 6mm and cut a 12mm working template in 12mm off it - umm actually make 2 so you dont have to use your master template again
- dont breathe in the dust mdf makes its very toxic
btw how much was that wood? i am in melb also and wouldnt mind checking out that place in balwyn
you should go see mathews timber in rooks rd vermont they have some great timbers at good prices
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i would definitely leave it as is cosmetically
clean her up
do the frets and get it playing
do not cut it anywhere - you will probably find that when you get it playing it is a fine old guitar in its own right
if you want an sg custom just build one and keep the old girl for a tochstone to your past
hand it onto your kids when you cant play it any more
its prolly worth good money
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easier is glue a decent splinter of wood into the hole and re screw the end pin in
a match is good
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Thanks. I understood the basic principle already, but I thought it was going to involve some complex geometry or wood shaping. Folded up business cards will really do the trick?
sure - at fender in the early days they used bits of lucky strike cigarette packs
i use brass shims - you can get 1/2" brass bar in very small thickness at hobby shops - get a few thin ones in different sizes
it dont take much to get the right tilt to bring that action down...
that guit looks cool
A New Look At An Old Idea
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
my last one for 2012
a favorite theme of mine with a twist - this one was designed from the ground up to augment my customers collection of teles
he wanted something that sounded and looked different to the others but with typically T style layout
we came up with "The Prospector"
Specs
· Model: The Prospector [Astrocaster © body]
· Body: top & back bound select timber binding
· Tasmanian Blackwood top and rear cap, Vic Ash core,
· Finish - Polished and sealed with "No Skin" finish
· Neck: Vic Ash with Cooktown ironwood fret board.
· 25.5”scale - 9.5" radius, Standard "F" profile
· Tuners: Gotoh locking
· Pickups: Hand wound Brierley 52 tele bridge, Firebird neck
· Bridge, Ferrules, string tree: Callaham Guitars USA
· Pick Guard - Copper plate
· Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware, high pass filter
· Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector
· Weight: 3.4 kg - 8lbs
· Serial number 22-271112