Belial Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 What about something like this http://www.interlog.com/~ask/scale/tips/booth.htm? Shouldn't be too hard to change the dementions to fit bodies and necks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 I think the fan should also be looked at as a way to keep fumes/particles settling on your guitar as you spray in addition to a way to prevent an explosion. If you spray in a box with little to no airflow, I would expect that you would have a lot more sanding/cleaning up to do than if you sprayed in a box with good airflow. Here's a great site that explains a lot about spray booth design and airflow please check it out - you'll like it: Spray Booth Design These are NOT explosion proof but they do have the motor mounted out of the airflow. I have heard many people have had success using these. Dayton Blowers Here's one site that sells explosion proof fans. They are quite expensive and that's why I was surprised to hear that the cheap stove units are explosion proof. If that's true, I'd go with that but I'm not sure that they really are. Explosion Proof Grainger also sells loads of explosion proof exhaust fans but unless you buy as a business, they can't sell to you. You might be able to go in person to one of their stores and buy one but I don't know if you live near one. Explosion proof fans typically run in the upper $200 to $300 range as far as I have seen. That's why I went with a fan with the motor mounted outside the airflow. It provides less protection but since I have heard that it works and it's half the price of an explosion proof fan - that's my plan for now. My disclaimer is to research the best you can to be sure you're not setting yourself up for disaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrock Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 Good info dave. cheers. I haven't done any fluid dynamics for about a year know and that's giving me flash backs . I'll have a look around for explosion proof fans or anything that might be suitable. The only problem I can see with using a blower is that if they go wrong they create loads of sparks as the two rotors smack into each other and then into the casing. It's not very likely but it is possible. I know that in explosion proof fans (not blowers) they cover the inside of the stator with brass (atleast I think it's brass) that way if the rotor flies off it doesn't spark. I'll hit the text books over the weekend and see what I can come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 know that in explosion proof fans (not blowers) they cover the inside of the stator with brass (atleast I think it's brass) that way if the rotor flies off it doesn't spark. Right, I have heard that the brushes are sealed somehow. In addition, I think the blades are normally aluminum to prevent sparking if the blades ever hit something. Not likely either but you never know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrock Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 Yup, unfortunately I only really have experience with pumps that pump water about a mile up a hill (very VERY big pumps) and blowers that have a flow of about 8000m^3/min (very VERY big blowers ) But I'll see what I can come up with. Just been wondering if it's worth using some sort of Venturi pressure difference. If you have an upright tuube and you blow air across perpendicular to the tube. The air passing over the open end of the tube will draw the air out of the tube. Just wondering if I can get round the explosion problem like this. I doubt it but it's worth a look. Right then, if I'm designing something, someone get me 10 cans of stella and 200 beer mats to draw on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 One last bit on info: The site that I linked to concerning the booth design talks about the use of kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans. He describes them as having exposed stator windings which can create problems leading to short circuiting. I don't know how accurate that is (maybe some aren't exposed?) but I wanted to let people know that there is some info on this topic in that link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibreakemineedtobuildem Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 Ever see those patio greenhouses with covers.They're only 4 feet tall?40 bucks or so.Cut a hole for a vacum and seal it.Then take the shop vac and place it outside your window.I have one and I'm gonna try it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimBones84 Posted February 28, 2004 Report Share Posted February 28, 2004 i dunno if u got the answer to ur question yet but i have made my own spray booth so i can help you out. all i did was go to the warehouse of the local appliance distributor and asked them for a refridgerator box. In my shop (my garage!) what i do when paning is hang the bodies from a wire hanger that I turned into a kind of hook, its almost like a butcher shop lol. Anyway i had probs with paint dust getting everywhere, so what I did was put a tarp down, then i cut the fridge box open on 1 seem and cut a slot in the top of it so i could accomidate for the hanger to fit thru. then i just position the box around the body. when i need to get the back of the body all i do is turn the box. it's pretty simple and seems like a poor mans method but it's usually the simplest ideas that work the best. i hope this helps. JimBONES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucindafan Posted March 11, 2004 Report Share Posted March 11, 2004 Do not spray nitrocellulose lacquer into anything other than explosion proof fans, vapor resistant lighting etc. Nitrocellulose lacquer was developed after WWI because of all the raw material left over. Instead of weapons, chemists developed it for use in finishes. You may get away with it for a while but the one time you don't, I wouldn't want to be anywhere in the area. Also, the solvents are heavier than air so they go to the floor. A space heater is begging for trouble. Please be careful out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxandreflect Posted April 6, 2004 Report Share Posted April 6, 2004 What about something like this http://www.interlog.com/~ask/scale/tips/booth.htm? Shouldn't be too hard to change the dementions to fit bodies and necks. would this work for clear coat sealant? wouldn't the range hood be used to carrying flammable fumes, like from a gas stove? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted February 25, 2005 Report Share Posted February 25, 2005 i dunno if u got the answer to ur question yet but i have made my own spray booth so i can help you out. all i did was go to the warehouse of the local appliance distributor and asked them for a refridgerator box. In my shop (my garage!) what i do when paning is hang the bodies from a wire hanger that I turned into a kind of hook, its almost like a butcher shop lol. Anyway i had probs with paint dust getting everywhere, so what I did was put a tarp down, then i cut the fridge box open on 1 seem and cut a slot in the top of it so i could accomidate for the hanger to fit thru. then i just position the box around the body. when i need to get the back of the body all i do is turn the box. it's pretty simple and seems like a poor mans method but it's usually the simplest ideas that work the best. i hope this helps. JimBONES! ← hmm...i guess hillbillies are good for something after all. j/k, man, great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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