nakedzen Posted July 4 Author Report Share Posted July 4 6 hours ago, henrim said: Endangered species that causes rash and respiratory problems. What more can you ask for I asked for *solutions* not problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFlab Posted July 5 Report Share Posted July 5 Clean and remove any oils before glueing, make sure tools are sharp, because it is a bit splintery. Don't recall if it is eager to separate along the grain as easy as zebrano, from what I recall it is definitely a bit more sturdy (and heavy!). Will say that it is almost a waste to use it on the back, it is very nice. An alternative would be to use a dark veneer on the back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 5 Author Report Share Posted July 5 I'm looking into it, seems it's the same as ebony how it doesn't need any finish on it? Test render while I wait for glue to harden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LFlab Posted July 5 Report Share Posted July 5 Warwick basses, which also used wenge in necks and bodies, had oil on bodies, not sure if necks had any finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 Sanding the neck. Mmm, grain 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 9 Author Report Share Posted July 9 Onwards 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 12 Author Report Share Posted July 12 Everybody needs a small vice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asdrael Posted July 12 Report Share Posted July 12 I like the cleaned up headstock shape. And I think it goes really well with the body! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 16 Author Report Share Posted July 16 Got the wenge from the clasps of UPS finally. Planed it to 35mm. Will need to be weight relieved I think. Very pretty wood. Seems quite similar to padauk to work with, meaning bit of a pain but nothing impossible. Chips out to large grain sawdust on the planer. Anybody have ideas how to fix the problem with my planer/thicknesser btw. Like you can see on the pic it always takes a deeper chunk at the end of the board. That part will be sanded away for heel access so it doesn't matter but it's annoying. It's the Bernardo TH330 if that makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 21 minutes ago, nakedzen said: Anybody have ideas how to fix the problem with my planer/thicknesser btw. Like you can see on the pic it always takes a deeper chunk at the end of the board. Can't tell if it's brand specific, the one we have at the workshop does the same. It's old and green and I would remember if it had a human name like Bernardo. Siemens, perhaps? Doesn't matter. Anyhow, it has something to do with how the transporting system grabs the board, it makes the front jump or rather tilt a bit until the board levels again. One workaround is to attach the workpiece on another board with a sacrifical piece in front. A conveyor belt similar to what's commonly used on sander thicknessers might prevent the front bite. Then again we've learned to use the extra piece method with the sander as well, especially with thin boards like the sides of an acoustic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 16 Author Report Share Posted July 16 Actually I found this video explaining the problem and how to adjust the planer to get rid of it: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Good find! As far as I could see the issue here wasn't chewing the front end of the board, only the rear so it doesn't help with our planer but if yours did that sort of sniping and your planer is similar enough with that or the others shown in the suggestions then it's an easy fix. Our planer is a bit bigger, a cube about 1 m3 with a motorized cast iron table that's about 10 cm (4") thick - weight relieved from the underside of course. Also the tables are inside the planer instead of protruding so tapping them one direction or another is not an option. Not adjustable by us users, don't know if there's anyone among the town carpenters that can perform such maintenance tasks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrim Posted July 16 Report Share Posted July 16 Hopefully you can adjust it so that it doesn’t snipe that much. However sometimes it can’t all be adjusted out or sniping may happen even if the thicknesser is in good shape. Best way to avoid sniping is to not avoid it at all. I always try to have extra material on my work piece that can be cut off once the he piece is thicknessed. In your case that may not be possible so try to support the piece and run it into the machine as parallel as possible. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 17 Author Report Share Posted July 17 Body routed. Had a bit of tear out but nothing too bad. Thankfully it's where the jack plate will be. Finally after 16 builds I remembered to route the wire channel for the pickups before gluing the top on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusader Posted July 17 Report Share Posted July 17 On 7/16/2024 at 1:44 PM, nakedzen said: Anybody have ideas how to fix the problem with my planer/thicknesser btw Have always had that problem too. Will have to see if the video's explanation helps next time I use it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asdrael Posted July 17 Report Share Posted July 17 On 7/16/2024 at 7:44 AM, nakedzen said: Anybody have ideas how to fix the problem with my planer/thicknesser btw. Tbh I always finish with a hand plane . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 17 Author Report Share Posted July 17 Brass dots installed 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 19 Author Report Share Posted July 19 Body swiss cheese'd. Forgot to take a pic. So here's the obligatory. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted July 23 Report Share Posted July 23 cool shape and that neck grain is "ooh la la". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 23 Author Report Share Posted July 23 1 hour ago, mistermikev said: cool shape and that neck grain is "ooh la la". Thanks! It's quilted sapele from madinter iirc. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 25 Author Report Share Posted July 25 More progress, testing if Schaller Davinci's fit on the headstock. Now I'll need to make the actual cover too. Didn't have any mdf left, so I went for the acrylic. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted July 25 Report Share Posted July 25 42 minutes ago, nakedzen said: testing if Schaller Davinci's fit on the headstock. Now that was a clever move! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 26 Author Report Share Posted July 26 14 hours ago, Bizman62 said: Now that was a clever move! I always print out the bridge and tuners before ordering. It takes weeks to arrive too, so I can get ahead while I wait for the snail mail. Test fit. Today's plan, wind the pickup coils and wax pot them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asdrael Posted July 26 Report Share Posted July 26 24 minutes ago, nakedzen said: I always print out the bridge and tuners before ordering. It takes weeks to arrive too, so I can get ahead while I wait for the snail mail. Always a good strategy, but please keep in mind the classical user-grade printer (hell, even in most copy-shops) is far from 1:1, even with the "print actual size" mode enabled. Double check everything, and don't ask me how I know... Looking good though! What winder do you have? A store bought or DIY one? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nakedzen Posted July 26 Author Report Share Posted July 26 41 minutes ago, Asdrael said: Always a good strategy, but please keep in mind the classical user-grade printer (hell, even in most copy-shops) is far from 1:1, even with the "print actual size" mode enabled. Double check everything, and don't ask me how I know... Looking good though! What winder do you have? A store bought or DIY one? Yeah of course, calipers are your friend as always. I've printed enough scrap paper when the printer decides to auto-select the "scale oversized pages" making everything 0.5mm smaller. I use a DIY winder I made from parts off amazon for now. Didn't see the point in paying 800 for something that costs 60 euros to build yourself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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