StratsRdivine Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 On 1/12/2017 at 0:02 PM, Prostheta said: . . . Especially with laser-cut acrylic templates, which are too thin and prone to melting for most routing work. I copy them to thicker plywood or MDF whenever possible for the "actual" work. Having melted a template from a dirty bearing not spinning down quickly enough when making first contact....yeah....it hurts.... Thats precisely why I laser my templates from 1/4" baltic birch. It actually lasers faster than acrylic, and I have a habit of dropping templates, so its durability is awesome. Holds screws super without cracking like acrylic, and the wear on rub collars is nil. The laser will slice right through 1/2" baltic birch too, but I generally don't need that thickness. Mine is an 80 watt laser, which is plenty, but I'm dreaming of a 150 watter someday. Mostly cuz I like to remove the 1st mirror access door and burn holes in pallets across the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Probably another opportunity to detail @Norris' thread....! You seem super tooled-up....are you using the laser to print money, or is it for more nefarious porpoises? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StratsRdivine Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Thats the most perfectly applicable photo in the history of applicable photos! Next time I shoot holes in stuff across the shop, I will yell " You would prefer another target, a military target? Then name the system! " Yeah, I'm pretty tooled up from the last 30 years of high-end woodworking, and now laminating exotic opal panels with two custom made ovens holding 5 x 12ft each. My best tools are homemade, like my direct drive disc sander from a 3 dollar washing machine motor and my 480 F hot butyl dispensing gun made from a caulk gun, McMaster Carr heat tape, and a 24 oz beercan for insulation (most justifiable beer I ever drank), It works like a $3000.00 system - continuous dispensing of hot melt glue that actually sticks, and I still use it. OK, no more hijacking of Norris's thread - and now, back to the show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Yeah yeah, okay. This is Norris' call to shoo us off his porch and all that....! I look forward to seeing what particular madnesses have possessed you, and the products of them....the inventive and selectively unhinged mind produces all manner of crazy flying machines, right? "What an incredible smell you've discovered!" This is not an uncommonly heard thing in shared workshops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Derail away to your heart's content. This thread isn't quite long enough yet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 On 13 January 2017 at 6:11 PM, StratsRdivine said: Thats precisely why I laser my templates from 1/4" baltic birch. It actually lasers faster than acrylic, and I have a habit of dropping templates, so its durability is awesome. Holds screws super without cracking like acrylic, and the wear on rub collars is nil. The laser will slice right through 1/2" baltic birch too, but I generally don't need that thickness. Mine is an 80 watt laser, which is plenty, but I'm dreaming of a 150 watter someday. Mostly cuz I like to remove the 1st mirror access door and burn holes in pallets across the shop. ...and to think that I thought my newly acquired scroll saw was pretty neat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StratsRdivine Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 On 1/14/2017 at 3:49 PM, Prostheta said: I look forward to seeing what particular madnesses have possessed you, and the products of them....the inventive and selectively unhinged mind produces all manner of crazy flying machines, right? Prostheta, you really don't realize the prophetic nature of that statement, Once NAMM is over this weekend, I ill reveal the latest. I just designed and am now prototyping a 1/3" scale model of a guitar body that should fetch the hundreds of thousands (at least thats what in my mind now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Wow, well I'll be waiting with bated breath on that one! Are you actually at NAMM? If so, drop by Ormsby and say hey to Perry! I'm sure that your amazing pickguard or top materials will be of interest to his eye. To my mind, I have not yet known NAMM exhibitors produce any flying machines. This can only be good. If you can engineer a tool to do what you want it to do, making it from a beer can is just an apt bonus! Have you created a thread about what you're doing with these crazy things? I'm sure Norris doesn't mind, however I can see this tool/fabricating fun going on within a long long discussion....especially when it comes to lasers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StratsRdivine Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Alright, you get a preview. But this below looks like a crappy ukulele, compared to whats to be revealed at NAMM (below is NOT the 100K body I referred to above), See also the pics I uploaded in the member images portion of this site - cool material (seems like you saw them?). No, not going to NAMM this time, but my partner will be there with all my bling. Fender Custom Shop has already used this stuff, and Jens Ritter did an entire bass body and headstock with it, not to mention PRS (all my partner's version of same below). My new version is a fraction of the cost now due to production efficiency, which is why we are rolling out Pickguards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 I saw them, yes! Fascinating bit of material engineering. I make furniture and lighting....I strongly believe that lighting is the driver for is a room feels. I've built all kinds of lamps and sconces around our home and it transforms the place throughout our dark seasonal periods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 (edited) A few more bits & bobs ticked off the list... I recessed the jack plate. First I screwed it in place then used a sharp knife to cut around it to a depth of about 2mm. Then used my Dremel + StewMac router base to create the rebate. A tiny bit of end grain tearout, which is pretty much inevitable - but not bad at all Then on to the control mounting holes. I had to recess them slightly I seem to have managed to catch hardly any highlights - that's a chrome plate The holes are not spaced equally deliberately. There are asymmetric knobs in progress I also got my back plate back. My instructor ran it through his sander thicknesser for me. It's a shame I cocked up the routing on the body recess, as otherwise it would have fitted beautifully. So anyway, I've got to make a new template next, get the recess routed & bound, magnets drilled & fitted - and that will be the body about complete & ready for starting to finish. Unfortunately the body has picked up a few scuffs & dints which will need attention, but it's hardly surprising when I'm carrying it back & forth to class every week. I've officially got that "final approach" feeling Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 5 hours ago, Norris said: Then used my Dremel + StewMac router base to create the rebate. A tiny bit of end grain tearout, which is pretty much inevitable - but not bad at all A little work with some sandpaper will make that invisible in no time. 5 hours ago, Norris said: Unfortunately the body has picked up a few scuffs & dints which will need attention, but it's hardly surprising when I'm carrying it back & forth to class every week. For nearly a year and a half. Talk about taking your time and getting it right. And the cool thing is it shows. It looks like it has been built lovingly and gently....and beautifully. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 I've been following along eagerly from the start. Can't wait to see the finished product! (Please don't rush on my behalf, though!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 21 hours ago, ScottR said: Talk about taking your time and getting it right. And the cool thing is it shows. It looks like it has been built lovingly and gently....and beautifully. 12 hours ago, a2k said: I've been following along eagerly from the start. Can't wait to see the finished product! (Please don't rush on my behalf, though!) Thanks for your kind comments. I'm certainly not going to start rushing now, although I'm as keen as you are to see a finished guitar! My wife even bought me a Hiscox case for it for Xmas! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 It happens when it happens. Let it be. If you have the luxury and option of time, it's worth getting it right. BTW - since I seem to be the most guilty person for derailing, I might as well mention that I love your new avatar @a2k 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 10 hours ago, Prostheta said: BTW - since I seem to be the most guilty person for derailing, I might as well mention that I love your new avatar @a2k Arigatou! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) Progress has been pretty slow of late. One of the reasons being our latest aquisition For any VW buffs out there, it's a 1979 Devon camper, mostly original, including the 2.0l T4 engine. Anyway, enough derailing my own thread Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) As for guitar building progress, there has actually been some. If you recall from the last time, I had a slight "overcut" incident when routing for my rear access panel. Luckily the "overcut" was about the thickness of the binding I have been using and I had some left over. Now I've not done any internal binding before - it's all been external which means you can use tape to hold it. This may not be the "correct" or indeed easiest way to do things, but it's how I approached it... So firstly I took the rear access panel and wrapped 3 layers of masking tape around the outside edge - a clearance of 0.36mm And then used an offcut of binding to mark out my template Having removed the masking tape I have my slight clearance gap About the only time I'd advocate using a jigsaw for guitar building is to quickly make templates. Having rough cut to within about 2mm of the line, I then very carefully used the face of the blade as a vertical file to get within 0.5mm Which greatly minimised the amount of hand sanding I had to do, plus I got a pretty vertical cut. Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) So then the template went in place to take in the "overcut" Using my Dremel with router base I could then dial in the depth accurately I then spent some time using the template as a form, to heat the binding so it would go in place nicely. It turned out that the spare binding was about 2mm short by the time I'd squared off the ends, so I made myself a little "key" insert from a small offcut. It ended up about 2mm wide - I took it down gradually to make the snuggest fit I could Then having wrapped 5 layers of masking tape around my rear panel (I marked out using 3, but want a REALLY snug fit) I used it to hold the binding in place while the adhesive went off Now you can probably see why I made a "key" insert. Trying to hold something that small in place without getting glue everywhere would have been very difficult Once it was dry I then used a small pull shave to get within about 2mm of the height, then a cabinet scraper, and eventually my sanding table to get it all levelled Since then I have re-sanded the back down to 400 grit and cut a small finger slot to assist in removing the panel. No photos of that yet. Finally (both with no photos), I have sanded the headstock some more, including getting the transition curve nice & smooth (flamed maple veneer on quite a tight curved Fender style headstock if you recall), and also done some tweaks to the logo artwork & placed my order for the headstock waterslide decal (Rothko & Frost) Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Oh and I might add, I did the join in the binding on the straightest part of the curve to help with alignment. Now it's scraped down I can hardly see the join with my binoculars on, even when I know where it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 5 hours ago, Norris said: Progress has been pretty slow of late. One of the reasons being our latest aquisition For any VW buffs out there, it's a 1979 Devon camper, mostly original, including the 2.0l T4 engine. Anyway, enough derailing my own thread That's awesome! Congratulations. I recognize the shadow of your head from your avatar. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 5 hours ago, Norris said: Oh and I might add, I did the join in the binding on the straightest part of the curve to help with alignment. Now it's scraped down I can hardly see the join with my binoculars on, even when I know where it is! Excellent job on some very twiddly work. I'm pretty sure that would have made my eyeballs twitch. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 (edited) The magnets are in place They are 3mm diameter and 2mm tall, which are the smallest ones I could find (on eBay?). Because I only have about 5mm of wood to play with and didn't want to drill through, I first drilled 3mm holes in my inner route template so I could get the magnets aligned and gently used a hand drill to mark out on the cover and body. I then used my Dremel + . StewMac router base along with a 3.2mm flush router bit to do a plunge spot cut of a nominal 2.5mm. Those magnets are fiddly little fellas, but I eventually managed to get them expoxied in. It's the first time I've used the StewMac router base to do a plunge cut, and although I got the results I wanted it could have been a lot easier if there were springs fitted to both posts. The un-sprung depth stop had a tendency to rotate when the Dremel was on, meaning I had to jam a bit of chewing gum in the thread to stop it turning - and life became a lot easier then. The additional springs would help a lot with the stability too and would remove a lot of the flex when plunging. I'll have to see if they do spare springs and "upgrade" mine Anyway, I'll end off with a close up of the the previously un-photographed "pinky" chute... I'll do another "actually fits" shot of the cover when I've scraped down the epoxy Anyway, I think we may be gearing up for a grain filling & dyeing on the back soon ... Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Heading for the finish line (no joke intended) are we? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 (edited) 12 hours ago, Prostheta said: Heading for the finish line (no joke intended) are we? I'm eyeing up the grain filler I have to fit the inner control panel and do a "first fix" wiring, but then into the home straight with finishing! Edit: Oh - and I scraped down the epoxy last night and now have a good... and hopefully secure... fit to the rear panel. I also cut a little "finger nail" notch in the plate - which was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. Maple is hard carving when trying to do little details Edited February 22, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.