guitar2005 Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 I had an off center inlay on one my my latest neck builds and I relocated it. Unfortunately, it shows and I'm not happy with it. I tried to fix it up but it not working. I'm looking for ideas on how to fix it or maybe cover it up with a larger inlay. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. This is what it looks like: You can see, to the left how I tried to blend in the existing wood with the filler but its just really bad. I already scrapped one neck this past week, I don't want to scrap another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Well, I tried blending it in some more by cutting up the maple around the inlay but it just makes it darker. Had this been ebony and a dark wood, I wouldn't have this problem. I've already spent way too much time on this... I think. My next step is to remove the fingerboard and make a new one. The neck itself is nice and I can't bring myself to destroy another neck in less than 7 days. Lesson learned I guess. Its just too bad I caught this after having fretted the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntinDoug Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Dots suck...period. For some reason I have more problems with them than even the most complex inlays. Even when I CNC the pockets, they never seem to be where I want them in relation to the frets... I have found that going back and fixing, then re-fixing just wastes time, and builds aggravation. I have my "wall of shame" for botched pieces of builds. Actually its a shelf. There are literally dozens of fretboards with issues like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 I have found that going back and fixing, then re-fixing just wastes time, and builds aggravation. I have my "wall of shame" for botched pieces of builds. Actually its a shelf. There are literally dozens of fretboards with issues like this. Yeah, at this point, it looks like the fretboard is coming off. Seems like such a waste though. This is fixed, re-fixed and re-fixed, then... re-fixed again. I could have made a new fretboard (almost) in that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 After a fingerboard last year had a couple slightly off center dots even though I'd center marked and hole punched, I went and bought a set of brad tip drills in hope it never happens again. They are a more accurate drill. I haven't done a dot job since but I assume this will prevent, however it won't fix an already buggered board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agent_zed Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 seems a waste to start again when its looks so nicely done. what about a complete rethink and do something like this (not my guitar sadly just googled it). or anything like that. simple rectangles etc or can't this be done now you have frets on? haven't done inlays in mine as too scared at the moment (maybe next time). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 After a fingerboard last year had a couple slightly off center dots even though I'd center marked and hole punched, I went and bought a set of brad tip drills in hope it never happens again. They are a more accurate drill. I haven't done a dot job since but I assume this will prevent, however it won't fix an already buggered board I always use brad point bits and everything was centered but what I've noticed is that sometimes, the point of the bit moves around if the center punch didn't go deep enough. Lesson learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 All I'm gonna say is I relate. I'm in the same position on the bass I'm building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Well, I unglued the fretboard and it took about 30mins. If Ihad done that in the first place, I would have been better off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I hate CA getting anywhere near light woods like Maple or even soundboards on acoustics. The stuff wicks in and discolours it like hell. Repairing a gap is even worse! I agree about the idea of larger inlays. A total git to have to do, but Maple is a total git when it comes to problems like this anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Buy a little identity block from Doug and put it in that fret.He sent me one with my name on it so I know he can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 My early 90s Sabre neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Good Idea Wes, but a little too late. I'll keep that in mind for next time. How much does one of those cost?G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I don't know,Doug sent it as an extra with some multiscale necks I bought from him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 If you doing dot inlays you need to spend the money on good brad point drill bits. Standard brad point bits are garbage. I have used Lee Valley brand with good success. I never use my dot drill bits on anything else in my shop. You can buy them individually in English or metric sizes. The run out on your drill press should also be minimal, if you dont know what this is or how to check it you are already in trouble. I always prep dot inlays while the board is in a raw state with the frets cut. The layout is scratched into the board along with a center line. With a good ruler and an awl I make a small hole in the proper position, small hole Then I use a fence on my drill press to make sure everything lines up. The fence not the hole is the center line, the whole is the distance between two frets. Double dots will need the fence readjusted two more times. The side of the board I used for fret cutting and marking is always against the fence. If I make a mistake I can adjust the taper of the fret board a bit but I have never had to do this on my own work. Keep the side you are marking from labeled or put several small saw cuts in the other side on waste wood as a marker. Dots do come in standard or undersized. If you are doing maple never buy undersized dots. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Spoke-n. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 To Woodenspoke - I get my drill bits @ Lee Valley. I use the forstner bits. With some woods, depending on the grain, the tip can move a little and I believe that's what happened here. I've changed my technique so that the fretboard is a close as possible to the drill bit tip with the drill press in resting position. I lift up the board to lock it into the mark I previously made with a tack and then, turn the press on with the depth stop on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP63 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 What fret is it on? Maybe if it is on the seventh or so, you can make that inlay just a bit larger? The best hole maker for me has been a router bit. I put the router bit in a drill press and it makes the perfect hole regardless of grain, every time. Using a drill, it can wander if the grain is strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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