RestorationAD Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Best drill bits I have ever used at realistic prices: http://www.je-nettiv...5-6-8-10mm.html The exit is nearly always clean, even in coarse chippy woods. With sacrifical backing material the exit is clinical. They never burn the wood either. Are these the ones that your guy recommended to you, Allan? Nice German Made bits. The Colt Twinland are more economical but also do not come in sizes I use regularly. I need a 15/32, 13/32 and 11/32 on almost every guitar. So far I have not found a supplier that carries a huge index of Colt Twinland. A regular index is easy enough to find for about $20 USD. The Colt 5 Star are really nice but the only place I have found a full index is at the best things website. However they never have stock on the sizes I need. http://thebestthings.com/newtools/miebach_drill_bits.htm The only truly nice full index I have found is the Lee Valley set. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,180,42240&p=42247 Another option is the W.L. Fuller set. http://www.wlfuller.com/html/brad_point_drills.html I have found them on Amazon and they are not cheap. I think that the short set would be the best for guitar work... http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Steel-Point-Drill-Length/dp/B001HL2G80/ref=sr_1_188?ie=UTF8&m=A1BJ2POA1VRGBO&qid=1354043168&s=generic&sr=1-188 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 For those of you who can use French stuff. Here is a very affordable rasp maker. Liogier. Web store http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.com/ Other file makers to look into are Grobert. You can get nice riflers and knife files at most jewelers suppliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Good choice. I feel this is delving partially into snobbery but mostly into unchaste sordid tool pr0n. I approve. I counter your Liogier rasps with Auriou. http://www.forge-de-saint-juery.com I would dearly love a 10" no.9 and a no.12 Cabinet Maker's rasp from Auriou. WIIIIIIIIIIIIIIFEEEEEEEE!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 I would dearly love a 10" no.9 and a no.12 Cabinet Maker's rasp from Auriou. WIIIIIIIIIIIIIIFEEEEEEEE!! For me while the quality is great I think the Auriou are completely to expensive for luthier work. The point of this thread is buying the best tools I can afford on a medium tool budget. Auriou just doesn't fit. Dragon rasps are fine and expensive enough... Gramercy Tools has some nice hand stitched rasps that are made in Pakistan and still more expensive than the Liogier. http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-CMRASP.XX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Totally. This is why one would make a great present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Dragon rasps are fine and expensive enough... When I wanted to buy a new rasp a couple months ago I decided on Liogier ones aftrer being told they are the best of the best. I got onto their website and there was too many options so I though I'd do a bit of research so I was buying the right one. I ended out just buying a dragon rasp as they were cheaper and I'd read they hack out more wood than a liogier but leave a messier finish. Well considering I use a rasp for hacking off wood this sounded ideal. The pain in the butt about the dragon rasp is having to go get your own handle. Other than that, I've found it to be excellent. In fact I have learned to be carefull with it as it does actually cut through the wood really fast if not used at an angle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Call me "ignorant"... but why fork out on "expensive" rasps? I seem to get adequate results from a 3$ rasp I bought at sears O.o. Just me being curious george, Id love to hear a professionals reasoning behind this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Dragon rasps are fine and expensive enough... When I wanted to buy a new rasp a couple months ago I decided on Liogier ones aftrer being told they are the best of the best. I got onto their website and there was too many options so I though I'd do a bit of research so I was buying the right one. I ended out just buying a dragon rasp as they were cheaper and I'd read they hack out more wood than a liogier but leave a messier finish. Well considering I use a rasp for hacking off wood this sounded ideal. The pain in the butt about the dragon rasp is having to go get your own handle. Other than that, I've found it to be excellent. In fact I have learned to be carefull with it as it does actually cut through the wood really fast if not used at an angle! I have 4 Dragon Rasps. For the money they have served me well. I will say that the Liogier offer many different stitching grades. Coarse to Fine. So you can order a coarse stitch for material removal and a fine stitch for clean up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Call me "ignorant"... but why fork out on "expensive" rasps? I seem to get adequate results from a 3$ rasp I bought at sears O.o. Just me being curious george, Id love to hear a professionals reasoning behind this. Ummm... I can tell you that using a quality hand stitched rasp on hard maple is a pleasure. I will also say that you only buy high end rasps once. The fine toothed Dragon rasp will leave a surface that with about 60 grit scratches... sometimes I can get it to only leave about 80 grit scratches... This means less clean up after shaping. From what i understand a fine toothed Auriou or Liogier can leave 120 grit scratches... that would speed up work so much. One problem I have with cheap rasps is control. They dig and tear and chatter. This happens because machine struck teeth are in straight rows. Hand stitched teeth are variable and cut smooth and clean with a lot of control. Ok so my necks are between 17 to 20mm thick. If I use a cheap rasp that leaves 36 grit or worse surface I have to cut that much deeper to remove the scratches. That means to get to 17mm I have to stop at 20mm then work down through the grits to 320 grit. All the while I have to retain the carve. With a good rasp that leaves 80 grit scratches I can carve a neck to 18mm or so then follow up with a scraper and take the marks out. Leaving a 17mm neck with minimal work. Carving necks used to take me 2 hours. With my set of Dragon rasps it now takes me 30 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 +1 Searls To Allen's point Dragons cut fast. Almost too fast. There have been quite a few times I have almost ruined a neck in one stroke. When carving the volute it is all too easy to hit near the nut and cause a huge dip in the neck. I want a set of rasps for final Volute/Heel shaping that leave a smooth surface. Taking scratches out of a volute is a PITA. If the rasp can leave a clean 120 grit finish sanding out after becomes trivial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maull Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 +1 Searls To Allen's point Dragons cut fast. Almost too fast. There have been quite a few times I have almost ruined a neck in one stroke. When carving the volute it is all too easy to hit near the nut and cause a huge dip in the neck. I want a set of rasps for final Volute/Heel shaping that leave a smooth surface. Taking scratches out of a volute is a PITA. If the rasp can leave a clean 120 grit finish sanding out after becomes trivial. I found all this out the hard way. I used a dragon exclusively to shape the neck on my first build and was planning on using it pretty soon on my next one. It takes a little time with the rasp but eventually you do gain a bit more finesse/subtlety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 (edited) Ok... The new battery tools are purchased. Dewalt 12volt Max Screwdriver, 3/8" Drill, Impact Driver, Reciprocating Saw. Grand total $300 at Home Depot. I know what you are thinking.... Why a 12 volt unit? Well the Dewalt 12volt Max (Lion) Screwdriver has an adjustable clutch, it is compact, small and light, 2 speeds so it can run drill bits with a hex shank, and has a nice square battery to set it down on. I don't need an 18volt drill to work on guitars. I need small compact tools that get the job done and last a long time. It is by far the most awesome battery screwdriver I have seen. It is not an impact driver! Impact drivers are not for guitar work because of the impact action at the end of driving a screw in. Makes them suck as a drill. The other tools are just so I have several that use the same batteries. The Dewalt 12volt Max (Lion) Screwdriver w/ 2 batteries + charger was only $99 but the Dewalt12volt Max 3/8" drill by itself was $159.00 so I started looking into all the kits and found a discontinued kit that had the same Drill plus the Impact Driver, and Recip Saw, 2 batteries + charger for $199.00 So basically I got the Impact driver and the Recip Saw for $40. Not bad when you think about it that way. http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools/DEWALT/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZ25ecodZc298Z4j2Z1z0zzb1Z1z11zbr/R-202514547/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=Dewalt&storeId=10051#.ULY7oRDxVkQ http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools/DEWALT/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1vZ25ecodZc298Z4j2Z1z0zzb1Z1z11zbr/R-203427355/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=Dewalt&storeId=10051#.ULY7pxDxVkQ Edited November 28, 2012 by RestorationAD Added links to Kits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 On to the spindle sander.... finally made a decision. GENERAL INTERNATIONAL 15-220 M1 Benchtop Oscillating Spindle Sander with the optional 3" Spindle kit shipped to my house for $497.43 I found it for $399 and the spindle for $65. Most places are selling the machine alone for $479. The Jet JBOS5 cost $479. The 3" Spindle kit for the JBOS5 is $98. You start to see where this is going. I read several threads at sawmill creek and the machines are identical in performance and functionality. That means price is the deciding option... Anyway done deal. I will let you know how it works after I get it set up. Link to the deal http://woodworker.com/benchtop-oscillating-spindle-sander-mssu-157-646.asp?search=spindle%20sander&searchmode=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Almost done... I have some hand tools and drill bits to buy but the rest of this years profits go towards insulation, new benches, and a heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Ha! You and I are inso much the same spot! I was just thinking the other day about cordless screwdrivers. I just bought a second hand wood heater which I have to install before winter and Im also looking at second hand aircon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 CNC plexiglass case is done. Laguna is hooked up and running. So far so good. It seems to be awesome. It ripped through 6" Bloodwood like it was butter. General Spindle Sander works as advertised though I haven't used it much yet. The sander sleeves that come with it are a bit too aggressive for working on finish sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 The Delta Drill press is worth every dime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Sounds like you are on the ball. Can't agree more about having a *light* cordless drill handy. The big 24V DeWalt SDS drill I have is quite awkward (haha) and I always go back to the little handy ones for quick work. Tiredness becomes a big issue for sure. Today I spent most of the day working on the legs for my bench. The morticer is a pain to disassemble in order to gain sufficient room to fit a 14cm thick leg under it so I ended up using a drill press, Forstners and then hand cutting with chisels and a hammer. Damn that kills your shoulders in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I was just sitting here thinking about the shops you too are working in......Allan too for that matter.... I think I'll just go sit in my garage and play with my palm gouges.... I'll raise a beer to you when I get done being jealous! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 I hate the loud machinery in our shop. Take that away and you find there is a lack of good hand tools, so in that respect I would trade places with yourself quite happily Scott. At least, as long as I get to borrow your machinery when it is convenient! Today's work on the bench leg tenons really makes me wish I had a finger file or flat ironing rasp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Talking of which, check this bad boy out. http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.com/tradition/woodworking/rasps/laterale.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 I was just sitting here thinking about the shops you too are working in......Allan too for that matter.... I think I'll just go sit in my garage and play with my palm gouges.... I'll raise a beer to you when I get done being jealous! SR At times I wish I had never let this get so serious. Then there was Saturday when I used that Laguna to cut wood. That was a day I was glad I have a real shop. Talking of which, check this bad boy out. http://www.hand-stit...s/laterale.html If they weren't French I would already own them ... still trying to come to terms with using French tools on my guitars (merica) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Proud of those bad boys too, ain't they. Aw, I've got all the tools I need.....there are a few more I want though. I don't build enough that getting them would be anything other than an indulgence. I will admit that every so often an indulgence is a good thing though, so I will likely slowly collect a few things I want but don't really need. On the other hand, I'm not building to meet any kind of demand, just the satisfaction of creating a high end instrument/piece of art by hand. Solving some of the problems by hand instead of with special purpose tools is part of the satisfaction and adds a couple of levels of pride in a job well done. I was just drooling over the big boy toys you guys are playing with. I'll never own a Lambourgini, don't even want one really, but I'll stop and stare every time I see one. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Nice analogy. All the more apt since the poor Lambos I am using don't cost me when they break down, need new tyres or have to be refuelled. Plus the insurance is free. I'm setting myself up for a huge hit when I graduate and lose access to this shop....damn.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Add a teaching certificate while you're at it and maybe they'll let you stay..... SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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