RestorationAD Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Carefully drilling the alignment pins. These are used on the CNC and also to align the top so it doesn't move when gluing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Are we going to see an amber fire maple top this year? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Are we going to see an amber fire maple top this year? SR I don't know yet... maybe. Sounds like a good idea for my headless 7 string I am building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Is it easier to measure for a multiscale fret layout? I imagine it'd be more forgiving looks wise, but not so much intonation wise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Is it easier to measure for a multiscale fret layout? I imagine it'd be more forgiving looks wise, but not so much intonation wise... Not sure. The trick with multiscales is you must measure along the path of the string to get it really right (you don't have to but you should). So you have to work along with the neck as it widens to the bridge. I would say that doing one by hand would be painful. I don't even bother trying to measure them out. I use the FretFinder and import it straight into CAD. It allows me to calculate everything. Perfect tool.Of course I then make my template on the CNC. However you could just print the PDF, tape it to the board and slot it by hand using a Carpenter's Sliding Bevel as a guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 However you could just print the PDF, tape it to the board and slot it by hand using a Carpenter's Sliding Bevel as a guide. I wouldn't 'print and cut' a fretboard layout, since common printers don't give exact measures IMHO... I prefer to measure fret slots by hand. There are other areas of the guitar where a printer is very useful, but fret slots are probably one of few areas where measure really matters, I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 However you could just print the PDF, tape it to the board and slot it by hand using a Carpenter's Sliding Bevel as a guide. I wouldn't 'print and cut' a fretboard layout, since common printers don't give exact measures IMHO... I prefer to measure fret slots by hand. There are other areas of the guitar where a printer is very useful, but fret slots are probably one of few areas where measure really matters, I think...Point taken. That is why I make my template on the CNC and have to use a hammer to snug it before cutting a slot. Some hobby builders just don't have access to that stuff.That said we have had plenty of guys on this forum print a pdf for fret slots and have decent results. The difference is your level of accuracy over the length of the scale.I could see sitting down with a sheet of paper, good ruler, dial calipers, and a mechanical pencil and plotting it all out. You could even use the information from FretFinder to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Schatten Update. I have outgrown my Schatten. The underpowered motor was driving me crazy and I was tired of no reverse. So we upgraded it. 12v Johnson 9167AK Motor, 6600 RPM, 5 Pole, 12vdc Numbers on the casing are 66430 9167AK 3H0144 I bought this motor on eBay after finding a post here about it being a good replacement. I do not guarantee this motor will not fry your speed control so ask someone smarter to figure out the load. I just didn't care anymore about wrecking the winder. I had to drill out the pulley from the other motor to .125" and press it on the new shaft. Luckily the shaft sticks out the back of the casing enough I could just stick it in the vise. The motor used computer fine threaded chassis screws to mount and the holes lined up almost perfect. I had to clean them up a bit. The wiring is pretty simple. I took a DPDT ON-ON switch and wired the motor leads to the middle terminal. I wired the power leads to the top lugs and crossed wires to the lower lugs. This reverses polarity… just remember to stop the motor before switching it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 I would say that it is running around 1300rpm now and it is actually enjoyable to wind 8000 winds on a SC. Here is the video of it running.http://s284.photobucket.com/user/restorationad/media/VID_20130506_205502_zpsa43fc347.mp4.html I also made new plates using my CNC. Basically I cut 2 circles out of .5" MDF, one is the plate and the other smaller one is the collar. I glued them together with CA thinking that later I will get them made from aluminum. One is slotted for winding blades and the other has threaded 4-40 holes for mounting normal bobbins. I have spacing for 49.2mm, 50mm, 53mm, 62mm, and some custom 7 and 8 string bobbins I make. They need to be trued up on a lathe but they are straight enough for 1350rpm. I then made the new guide post bracket. Same idea cut out of MDF and glued together with CA. It is considerably more stable now. I had a very nice shiny stainless rod in the top of my toolbox that I used to replace that piece of crap mild steel bar that came with it. Sorry for the dark photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 I'm pretty sure I've never seen a dong blade......what kind of axe would that go in? I bet it screams. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 I'm pretty sure I've never seen a dong blade......what kind of axe would that go in? I bet it screams. SR I just caught that and fixed it. But I would assume "They need food" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Nice upgrade to the Schatten winder. I enjoyed seeing that you too use different face plates to accomodate different pickup bobbins. I made my winder from scratch and made a double face plate. One stationary part (if you can call a rotating plate stationary...) that is fixed to the motor shaft (yeah, direct drive) and running very true and perpendicular to the shaft. Then I have another plate that snaps into the first plate with magnets holding it place. That plate have specific fixtures and stuff for different coils, like a fixed blade that means that when I wind a blade pickup I just push the bobbin in place on the blade and wind away. For a standard HB I just snap off the plate, snap the standard HB bobbin plat in place and off we go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Nice upgrade to the Schatten winder. I enjoyed seeing that you too use different face plates to accomodate different pickup bobbins. I made my winder from scratch and made a double face plate. One stationary part (if you can call a rotating plate stationary...) that is fixed to the motor shaft (yeah, direct drive) and running very true and perpendicular to the shaft. Then I have another plate that snaps into the first plate with magnets holding it place. That plate have specific fixtures and stuff for different coils, like a fixed blade that means that when I wind a blade pickup I just push the bobbin in place on the blade and wind away. For a standard HB I just snap off the plate, snap the standard HB bobbin plat in place and off we go. Thanks I thought you might appreciate it. I am going to have to build my own winder soon... but I haven't had the time/money to do it right. I want an auto-traverse unit for production humbuckers and use the updated Schatten for special jobs. Now that I have my multiscale blades figured it is probably time to do a production run on them as well. I like the idea of changeable plates. I hate winding on the left side and that would solve that problem. So maybe Gen 2 is replaceable mounting plates. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maull Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 I'm pretty sure I've never seen a dong blade......what kind of axe would that go in? I bet it screams. SR I bet you would have to be pretty cocky to play one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 The S9, the S9, and the S6. All are bad. Starting on the Wenge body. Cutting painfully slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 CNC is done. A few marks to clean up but a relatively uneventful cut out. One problem I have run into on harder materials is the tabs are too small and the work piece would come loose on the last pass. This spells disaster so I have increased the tab size significantly to prevent this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Some old school router work. I will explain later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Headstock thickness while the blank is still square then we cut the profile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Looks like a neck now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Lets get a look at the beast before moving forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Lets get the trussrod ready. I had a picture of how I use a rasp in a battery drill to clean out the trussrod nut area but it was blurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Tape before epoxy. Trust me on this. Unless you really enjoy cleaning hardened epoxy do this. Especially with oil finishes I do not want any epoxy filling up pores. I know what you are thinking "You haven't even carved that neck yet." If you don't believe me, well, then have fun. Laying out the neck profiles by hand.. Again you might ask yourself why is he profiling necks by hand when he has a CNC? Because I am faster than the CNC and just as accurate. Right now I am in the middle of 3 builds do in July. They have to be basically done by June 1 in order for the oil finish to cure enough to ship in July. The CNC took a whole Saturday to cut out the Wenge body. I had to slow everything down because of how hard the material is. Normally I can cut out 1.5 Bodies on a Saturday. Anyway while RoboRAD (R4-D5) was cutting bodies I decided to finish up the necks. That means time for some router table. Get your centering rulers and dial calipers out as it is all old school now. After centering and attaching the template I cut as close as I can with the band saw. Normally you would not want to take more than half the diameter of the bit. That is fine for making cabinets but not guitars with figured wood. I do not want the router bit cutting more than half the depth of its carbide blades. That is about .0625" or so. Watch the kerf on the bandsaw as it can be deceiving and leave scratches deeper than your template. You can use the sander to get even closer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 With the router the first pass should always be very small. Just enough to get a clean edge. Since on a neck the only part really left from profiling is the edge of the fretboard this is important. This is after 2 passes Be careful removing your templates. Now I have to make a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Almost ready for fretboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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