RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Time to finish up this monster...Nut needs to be trimmed down so that half the string protrudes from the top. I never am able to get this exactly right because it is usually a few days before I do the final final setup and the nut slots usually end up a bit deeper. This is just a best effort to get it right.Start with 120 grit PSA on a sanding block, move to 220 Wet/Dry on a block, then follow up with a 180 grit sponge and finally 320 flex paper. You know it is good when you can't see scratches and the nut shines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Here is the killer. I broke a bridge screw in the Wenge. I purposely never use the supplied screws because they are usually not as strong as the Stainless Steel ones I get from McMaster-Carr. I also am very careful to use the correct drill bit for pilot holes to make sure that I do not break screws. Still sh%t happens.The culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 In order to fix it I could buy the really overpriced screw extractor kit from Stew Mac. What is so special about their kit? It is 3/16". The ones I have found online at woodworking stores are usually 1/4" or bigger. That makes for a large ugly plug.I refuse to spend that much money on something so simple and I will cover how to make your own at a later date. Right now I am in a bind for time so I am going to do it the old way.I start with a small mill bit in the dremel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 The trick is to let the bit follow the screw around. Keep the hole as small as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Always cut the screw completely free. You will be tempted to use a set of needle nose pliers to twist it out when you get enough to bite on. Don't do it. You will slip, break the screw off, and make the hole bigger. Be patient eventually the screw will come free without pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Here is our hole. Not to big, not to bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 It is just about 3/16" so I dig for a plug cutter. All I have in 3/16" is a cheap HSS plug cutter. I hate these things. All they do is burn the wood. In order to make it more efficient I am going to use a file to cut more teeth in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Now that we have improved the plug cutter we will try to cut a plug without burning the wood or the cutter. Slow the drill press and use short periods of pressure to cut the plug. You can't let the quill all the way up but you can release the pressure to let the plug cutter clear and cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Using a 3/16" bit with a depth stop I drill out the hole I made. Check the drill bit size with the plug in a piece of scrap first.Looks like it fits pretty well but it is very tight. Need to smooth the edges a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Now it fits tight and only required a light tap from the hammer. A little thick CA and put it in. Make sure to align the grain before driving it in you only get one chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Trim the plug off with a 1/8" mill bit in the dremel with the router base then take a sharp chisel and scrape the are one time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Lets play find the plug. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Now to be a good luthier you have to be brave. I really did not like the neck profile on this guitar. It was big and clunky. I measured the necks thickness at the 2nd fret as 21.5mm. Not sure how I managed that but that was a miscalculation. I bet I forgot to zero my calipers when I was carving it the first time. Always zero your calipers.I am going to fix the neck on an almost finished guitar. Good thing I only use oil on my necks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Starting on the back I take the neck down to 19mm knowing that I will take a little more out with the DA when removing the scratches. This is more like it. I usually use do about 18.7 mm for necks. I need about 12.7mm for the neck and I use a 6mm fretboard. When building using a very accurate thickness for the fretboard allows you to get the neck right and leave the proper amount of wood to support the trussrod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 After fixing the shape with the rasps I always use a sanding block to straighten out any unintentional high or low spots. This is a very important step for the overall feel of the neck especially when dealing with Wenge. The soft grain tends to cut faster when sanding by hand and the block helps remedy that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Excellent tutorials there, Brett. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Excellent tutorials there, Brett.SRThank you sir.Mistakes and accidents are just teaching opportunities in disguise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 (edited) I use a Rotabroach for making small wood plugs. They're really meant for drilling holes in sheet metal, but the cutting teeth work so much better in wood than "proper" plug cutters, and you end up with a perfect 1/4" tall cylinder in the middle of the cut that can just be popped out for use as the plug. You can find small kits in eBay fairly easily for 30 bucks or so. The smallest bit in the set I have will make a plug 4mm in diameter. I was considering a multiscale 7 for my next project. I have a query regarding the scarf in the headstock - do you just build up a straight scarf as you would for a standard perpendicular nut and leave a triangular "flat spot" behind the treble-side of the nut before the headstock angles down (eg, Conklin), or do you angle the scarf to twist the headstock to meet the nut angle (eg, this pic)? Edited August 5, 2013 by curtisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 curtisa, on 05 Aug 2013 - 19:16, said: I have a query regarding the scarf in the headstock - do you just build up a straight scarf as you would for a standard perpendicular nut and leave a triangular "flat spot" behind the treble-side of the nut before the headstock angles down (eg, Conklin), or do you angle the scarf to twist the headstock to meet the nut angle (eg, this pic)?Ummm errr... No. I use a regular scarf. I do not think a compound angle buys you anything but a headache. So on one I ended up with a very small flat triangle but on the others I didn't. If you dig through the pictures you can see the small shelf I make under the top side of the fretboard. I then but the headplate up to the end of the fretboard and sand it all flush. The Nut becomes the break point disguising the change in angle. Look closely at where the fretboard meets the headstock and you will see the added piece. And if you look at the end of the fretboard you can see the small piece in the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Nice idea Brett - thanks for sharing that one. The last multiscale I did way-back-when (sold partially unfinished) used a different method which was deceptively simple: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/43186-compound-headstock-angle-cutting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Thanks for clarifying, chaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 A quick look at the most hated guitar in the shop right now.I have sanded the finish off this POS 3 times already.For the record Nitro is the only way to consistently finish cocobolo. I don't know why I tried something different or experiment. The Behlens Teak oil looked like a million dollars on the sapele but on the cocobolo it was very dull in the springwood and super shiny in the summerwood. My fix was to scuff and use a few light coats of Poly over top of it. Well the poly peeled up on the springwood (softer sections). Stuck like mad to the Sapele. Mad at myself for trying something so silly I sanded the whole guitar back.My next plan was shellac. I don't use shellac much at all. Now I know that I won't moving forward. What a sticky nasty mess. Once I had a coat of shellac on it I hit it with more Poly. It looked like arse. So I left it to dry. Sanded it all back off and decided this guitar will be for experimenting with finishes.I have always wanted to try brushing lacquer on as a finish method. I took some Behlens and a sponge brush and brushed away. It dryed so fast the lines did not flow out. To be expected I guess. So I added some retarder (not thinner but retarder to slow the drying process) and tried again. By the time I got enough retarder so it would flow out it was so thin it might take a year to build. I let it cure brush marks and all.The next day I sanded out the brush marks and was mildly surprised at where the finish was. I am pretty sure with the right brush, retarder, and some patience you could brush on lacquer and get a good finish.Patience is not my virtue.Finally I decided I had enough. Grabbed the spray gun and shot 3 coats over the mess. It worked. Looks like a million dollars. I hate finishing but if I have to finish with something other than oil it will be Nitro.I should know better.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Nice idea Brett - thanks for sharing that one. The last multiscale I did way-back-when (sold partially unfinished) used a different method which was deceptively simple:http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/43186-compound-headstock-angle-cuttingCarl that is a great method of doing a compound headstock.I think the way I did it was easier for me because I don't have to change any of my jigs or methods. Not sure I have room or patience for another jig setup.The one thing I will point out is that I do not like the idea of a compound angle in my scarf. This is probably not an issue and is just the traditionalist in me but it feels strange. Not wrong just like it might be different. Visually it would be asymmetrical.This is easily remedied by making the headstock block thicker and cutting the compound angle into the face of the headstock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 I'm curious Seeing the west system epoxy in the background with the pump, do you clean out the pump after every use or just leave it. I've never been game to leave it in case it all clogs up so I always flush the pump with a weak multipurpose thinner and then pump till its dry after use, but in the process I tend to waste a fair bit of epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 I'm curious Seeing the west system epoxy in the background with the pump, do you clean out the pump after every use or just leave it. I've never been game to leave it in case it all clogs up so I always flush the pump with a weak multipurpose thinner and then pump till its dry after use, but in the process I tend to waste a fair bit of epoxy.Don't clean it.You are introducing contaminates and basically making your life miserable. It will be fine. Mine has been sitting there for over a year and works fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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