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Gretsch Jupiter


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We all know I like the less conventional body shapes, so let's see what becomes of this.

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Here we have the production model of the guitar Gretsch made for Bo Diddly (RIP). It's gone by various names: Billy Bo, Jupiter, and Thunderbird being the most common.

It has a mahogany body and neck, ebony fretboard, thumbnail markers, 2 TV Jones pups, and a very Gretsch-like control set with a clunky-seeming layout. The back & neck are painted black, the top is red.

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The neck & headstock are bound in cream. The body is bound in cream/black/cream. The Tele jack cup was NOT what I was expecting. I suspect the original had a different plate, but that's just a guess. The back appears to have a pretty big round over.

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I find it interesting that there appears to be a belly cut. I wouldn't have thought it would have been so. Then again Bo Diddly was never a small man, so it makes sense.

This one has been on the back burner on a very low heat for a number of months now. With all of my other projects now finished up (except for the Deco, which I swear is possessed with a demon of incompletion), it's time to pull this out and get to work.

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This should be fun to watch, since you have a way of putting a creative twist on whatever you take to. The Gretsch shape I want to build is the corvette. We'll see if I ever get to it, though. What are the finishing plans, etc.?

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Here's teh first - and most noticeable - change...

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....gold hardware.

Before my income went into the tank last month, I managed to pick up some Gretsch covered HBs. Clearly, they'll not sound the same as some TV Jones. The thing is, I can't afford $250 for a set of pups. I didn't want to put the effort I'll be putting into this thing and then drop some $20 imitations into it, so I went with some genuine Gretsch as the next best option.

You'll also notice the 1/4" plain maple top. I wanted some tonal balance to offset the mahogany body a bit. Not a noticeable change once the paint is on, but a change nonetheless.

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The next change is the binding. Instead of cream, I'm going with black. 1) I think this will look better with the red top & gold hardware. 2) I'm leaving the back of the body & neck natural, so the black binding will still show up. I've also put a red pinstripe between the black & headstock/fretboard. This draws color from the body paint and continues the colors in the body binding.

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For the inlays, I tried a product called Inlace. It worked well enough, but I don't think it was really intended for areas this large. Either that or I haven't totally figured it out yet.

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Instead of ebony, I went with a cocobolo fretboard. I had this blank sitting around for over a year, waiting for the right guitar to put it on. I wanted something bore high end, considering what coco looks like. This project is perfect because of the thumbnail markers.

The neck wood is another change. I've wanted to make a rosewood neck for a long time, so this one became chechen. Nothing major to show on that one just yet. The wood has darkened a bit, so it's not as pretty as I'd like it to be when I show it to you. :D

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I did something like inlace on one of my builds (just epoxy with stuff mixed in) and quite liked the results. Inlace is used a lot in turnings and is sometimes used to fill burl voids while adding color and such, so I think it can handle thumbnail markers no problem. This should be a fun build.

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I needed to do the binding before I did any top routing. What I wanted to do was the neck pocket, but because of the odd shape, the neck pup needed to be placed first. And to do that right, I needed the binding in place.

The only ting set in stone was multi-ply, black on the outside, and red on the inside somewhere. I didn't have very mych thin plastic binding left, so I had to be careful with it's usage. I have some b/w/b fiber, but it doesn't bend around tight corners well. In the end, I finally landed on B/w/r/w/b. This really made the red pinstripe pop out.

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Now, if you look at this picture again, you'll see the sharp interior angle.

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There's no way in he11 I'll ever attempt to buff out an inside corner like that, so the original plan was to round it over. Then I saw other pics revealing that the area IS curved. The binding has the sharp corner, but the area behind it is filled in with binding and rounded off. Killer! So...... I needed to chisel out the area after the initial routing of the binding channel.

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I actually did the binding in three stages. I laminated with acetone a b/w strip for the innermost part and a r/w for outside that. The thick black outside that was it's own section. The inside b/w was super-glued on first. To that, I laminated the r/w to it with acetone. That was a LOT easier than super glue! The outside black still needed to be glued in, but doing it in sections worked out a LOT better than in thicker chunks. I learned that from the mirrored Iceman. :D

Here's a section that I scraped smooth....

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...and here's the whole thing.

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Still pretty rough, but it's supposed to be rough at this stage.

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  • 2 months later...

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Controls drilled, cavities routed, and back rounded over. The cavities are a little rough, but it'll all be under the covers, so I' don't really care.

You'll notice the hole right below the pups. This is a recess for the pickguard-mounted master volume pot.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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All drilled, routed, shaped, and sanded. I'm right at the lip of being ready to start finishing the body - just a couple of touch-ups to do first.

I bought some Behlen's nitro & vinyl sealer. I need to experiment with the sealer/finish and the red paint before going off half-cocked.

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  • 1 month later...

PAINT!!!!

Here it is after painting. I laid about 8-10 mist coats, then sanded it smooth with 220 and gave it another few coats to even everything back up. It's a pretty bold red, but the florescent lighting is making it look orange.

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And let me testify..... scraping the paint from the bindings without scraping off any from the body is really hard! There will be touch-ups.

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