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Corvus Bloody Corvus


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Hi everyone.

I decided to join the corvus build of. The rules are as of yet: a budget (probably set at 200$ excl. pups) and a deadline at 31 june.

I haven't got anything on paper yet, but here are some specs I'm looking at.

(most likely) mahogany neck through with carbon reinforcements

mahogany wings

6 in line (normal) tuners in the rear cutaway of the body (think bc rich bich 10 string, but then with 6 strings and all tuners in the rear)

TOM bridge

Two tonerider h-90 pups (soapbar)

Ergonomic neck/body heel (for fret acces)

Ebony fretboard (probably no inlays, maybe black dot)

A small headstock shape with string ferrules

All hardware black

Mat black finish

A corvus logo in blood red (and probably dripping) all along the back of the neck.

An extra bevel on the belly side, accentuating the reference to an axe.

@ the normal tuners in the rear cutaway, I had this idea ever since I saw the corvus. i didn't rip it from one of the comments in the buildoff topic.

Edited by Dirge for november
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I have started drawing the template, it's a slow process as this is only my second build and my first template. I'm changing the name of the guitar to something with Varney in it. It's going to be vampire themed and if I have time left I think I'll try inlays.

@Varney, It's from the book: Varney the Vampyre. It's basically the first fiction written on Vampyres. Long before Dracula was invented. I haven't finished the book yet because it's slow as **** and it's in old fashioned English. The Vampire in the book is called sir Francis Varney. That's where the name comes from.

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An extra bevel on the belly side, accentuating the reference to an axe.

@ the normal tuners in the rear cutaway, I had this idea ever since I saw the corvus. i didn't rip it from one of the comments in the buildoff topic.

Hey, if I thought of it too, it was very obvious. Gibson must have thought of it too, but been too lazy to impliment it.

Todd

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I found a problem on the "six in a row on the rear end" idea. Basically for them to fit right I would need lefty tuners. Because I wan't my guitar all black and I still have some black tuners, I wanted to use them. In the case of ordering new tuners (lefty) the black isn't actually black as somehow the paint used to make hardware seriously black is banned in Europe. (correct me if i'm wrong, I hope I am.) The now available tuners are a more shiny metal black. Less usefull in my case.

A cheap solution I think I'll work out is 5 in the rear and 1 in the headstock. It looks a bit funny initially, but saves me 40 euros and I have cooler tuners. I'll fiddle around with it for a while.

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yeah, Gotohs and stuff like that only come in cosmo black in the EU. you can still sometimes find somebody selling the proper black ones on ebay. Sperzels are fine as they are coated aluminium - they are also convertible from right to left handed and damn fine tuners

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  • 2 weeks later...

A small update to keep the fans happy :D.

90527471.th.jpg

The image is quite unclear, so I'll try to make a mockup in photoshop (something which I'm unexperienced in).

Progress is going dead slow because of my internship and my waiting for lefty tuners (that's the reason why the tuners aren't in line with the strings on the template, they are righties.)

Cheers

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  • 5 weeks later...

Progress,

Well kind of... I got wood today! Plans have changed multiple times already, the original plan was: Mahogany neck through with mahogany wings. This changed to mahogany with glued in Indian rosewood neck. Since the rosewood blanks at LMII arrive at september it won't make the deadline, so now the guitar will be:

Body - Black Korina

Neck - Glued in Maple

Fingerboard - Still ebony

I chose Korina over Mahogany, as I could get it dirt cheap as opposed to mahogany. The slab of wood cost me 25 euro as it has a split on the side (which I can work around without trouble).

th_100_7056.jpg

th_100_7057.jpg

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I've been a bit stupid in my planning, I realized this as soon as I did the pickup cavities. I should have done the neck pocket first as this will be deeper then the pickup cavities. The reason I should have done this is that the neck pocket will also be deeper then the routerbit. The bearing won't be supported on the deeper run in the cavity area, so now I'll have to fill up or find a longer bit..

Bit complicated to explain something actually quite simple, but I guess most of you will get it. Howsomdever, I'll get there one way or another.

Cheers

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having the neck "plugged in" also allows you to line up your pickups with the neck, determine your scale length for bridge placement, and figure out where you want to put your tail piece if you're going to have one. I normally take a straight edge and line it up with the entire length of the body and I draw a straight line from the end of the fretboard all the way across the body, on both sides of the neck. That way I get a markup that sort of looks like a neckthrough, but works very well as a center guide.

Just tossing it out there :D Most people start with both a bridge, body and neck.

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Yeah, I geuss that's what I should have done though I'm not sure that's fully possible with my design as it's a set neck, and the pocket extends into the pu cavity. I created a centerline before starting any routing and such, but darn it's difficult to make exact meausurements. Everytime I think I measured correct and I draw lines they're of by a bit. The cavities are fully in line with each other, so that's at least a good thing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got some work done!

th_bodybevelled.jpg

th_neckshaping.jpg

I did the bevels, en am now shaping the neck. The belly curve is also done, but forgot to take a pic.

I know this must be a ridiculous question, but here goes: a single action U channel trussrod, which side faces up? Basically this determines whether the neck curves round or hollow. Basically my intuition tells me the strings are going to pull the neck hollow so the rod should be inserted in a manner that enables the neck to go straight and when tightened more, round.

Edited by Dirge for november
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