WezV Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 yeah, i am happy with mike's spraying... which is why i keep plugging his work http://www.lennonguitars.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I'm glad Wes said what he did about coloring burls. When I looked at it, my initial thought was I would have done it differently as I like doing the stain/sand back on burls, but it has to be the 'right' kind of burl to do that to, it doesn't always work out depending on the variety and the pattern/texture of the individual burl, but after reading Wes' post, I took another look and I completely agree with him, it was the perfect thing to do to that burl, and it looks great like that. And I also agree with Wes that to be honest, you probably wouldn't catch most popular/famous guitar players playing onstage with a natural colored burl topped guitar, this guitar looks far more like something someone would actually use onstage. Looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 thanks for your thoughts drak - i knew this blue may be a crowd splitter because it doesnt 'enhance' the burl. i can say it doesnt hide the burl at all either. it just shows the burl as it was... but a fair bit bluer i always like doing things in a way that give you a little more the closer you look. thats why the back looks black untill you get real close and can see its very dark blue and slightly see through. now.. i do have to say at this point that the guitar of mine thats been on the biggest stage in front of the biggest audience was a natural burl at wembley with a full orchestra http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/bod1.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/side1.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/17_0018.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/17_0016.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/WezV/17_0013.jpg cant really make out the burl at all on stage but all the detail work is for the player - not the audience!! also when choosing natural for burl you have to beware of how its actually going to look under a finish - do some test peices. i was really liking this burl all the way through the build (wiped with spirits for the photo) once it was sprayed clear it was a completely different look, almost too pale or pink. a dye and sandback may have worked wonders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I gotta comment. That's a really interesting choice to use a tele/humbucker bridge and then surface-mount the neck pup. What was the reasoning for not using a chrome ring on the neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 it made it look huge and oversized.. i didnt like the look with a ring so i left it off - that simple... except i would do the routes much neater now!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 i am trying to find a photo of an early nathan sheppard guitar that may have been a massive influence at the time i made that. it had a tele bridge, direct mount neck bucker, burl top and even a similar upper bout shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 camera broke, another ordered. till then i am using my phone i couldnt get a pic of the whole neck at once with the phone camera - but here is the back of the headstock to show the grain present in the rest this is currently sanded to 100 grit so nowhere near finalised but very promising!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Who's the band using that guitar in the photos? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 the guy playing my guitar is a music producer called Dann P. that gig was something he was doing with a project called globus http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Globus_(music) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 well its slow going but becoming worth it. its so tactile - showing a few areas i need to redo but generally very happy Its a red wenge skunk stripe with wenge heel plate too. no finish at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 No finish, huh? This is giving me some more motivation to make a neck from some of the guyana rosewood I have. I was wanting to anyway, but a little kick in the pants isn't necessarily a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 so far its just been micromeshed to about 4000 grit. it was starting to show a few areas that needed a little more attention so i will go back through the grits again till i progress to 12000 grit. feels so goram smooth!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Hmmmmm.... I have this rosewood capped ash body that didn't even get a bid. Maybe a rosewood Strat neck on it with gold hardware. I'd probably want to do a contrasting fretboard, just for something different on the face. Maybe be just plain silly and make it an ash fretboard. I don't recall ever seeing one of those before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Abbett Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 Someone mentioned two part epoxy and a hairdryer.. It certainly will thin the epoxy for a short time.. If you do that, be QUICK and mix small batches. Be careful, I've build a few boats with epoxy, and heat can cause big problems in a hurry. Two part epoxy will flash off if it gets hot. Most of you know this, but for those of you that don't, you don't want to mix a lot at once, and you don't want to let it sit very long. Mix what you want, and use it quick. When you mix, stir gently but completely. That will reduce bubbles. Because it's thick, it's easy to trap bubbles, stir circular. You want what you are applying the epoxy to to be cool and warming, not warm and cooling. That's the biggest problem with bubbles. If it's cool and warming, it will pull the epoxy into the guitar/boat/whatever. If it's warm and cooling, it will off gass and put bubbles into your epoxy. I never do epoxy that shows in the evening when the temp drops. Bad things happen. Picture an entire side of a boat with millions of little bubbles in the finish coat. Make you cry. I mixed up a 4 oz batch in a dixie cup one day, it was about 90 degree's outside. The phone rang, and I ran to answer it. I came back in about 2 minutes and it had flashed off, bubbled up to a 6 inch mushroom that was smoking and the cup was melted. When we do lots of epoxy, we mix it and then spread it into large flat pans, it doesn't go off as fast because it doesn't build up heat. Hair dryer will certainly thin it out, but it's going to reduce your working time dramatically. -John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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