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Wetsanding Arched Top


yorgo

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400-800 seems to be the concensus on where to start. That being said, you can't go by what someone else starts at because they may not have as heavy or light a hand as you use.

The important thing when starting is the first grit needs to level the finish. The grit needs to be aggressive enough to level it out, but not so aggressive that it strips the finish. It's a real balancing act that is really only learned through trial and error.

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It also depends on if there are pitts and low spots. You have to level the thing out, if there are pitts and low spots it takes a LOT of sanding at 400 grit.

I've put several coats on, leveled with 320 dry sanding, then hit it with another coat, being very careful to do a even coat. ( This is with nitro, it melts the 320 scratches not fills them). I then was able to start at 600 and go from there. I put it on a bit thick, knowing that my coats are a little rough. I'm getting better, but the first couple of guitars are a learning process.

-John

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Got any pictures of this project? Personally I can't say how you should begin unless I know what you are wetsanding. If there is a dye or stain job under ...how much clearcoat? which is what? new poly, nitro lacquer, original finish? need some more info. If you are going to do this on a Gibson archtop then you should exercise some caution. ie. If you have a stain or dye covered by a thin layer of lacquer then I think 400 grit may be too agressive.

Otherwise, it depends on the thickness and condition ie. runs, sags, drips orangepeel, pitting etc. of the spray job that you might have to deal with. If you are SURE you have a good amount of well-cured paint and/or clearcoat down you could be aggressive but make sure you constantly monitor your progress. That means good lighting, using even pressure and uniform technique. Block sand the flat areas and use foam for curved areas. Use finer grits on curves and corners. Mop up often and examine what you just sanded.

Edited by Southpa
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