guitar_player Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 For my last 3 builds I have rough cut and sanded the body shape but I'm not happy with how it isn't very exact. I have ordered a strat and tele template set and am planning on making complete templates for custom guitars. It would be a lot easier to just rough cut it sticky tape the template on and rout it. The thing I'm worried about is if the router bit bites and blows out the wood. Also would it be better to do it with a hand held router or a router table both are just as easy for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesy Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 For my last 3 builds I have rough cut and sanded the body shape but I'm not happy with how it isn't very exact. I have ordered a strat and tele template set and am planning on making complete templates for custom guitars. It would be a lot easier to just rough cut it sticky tape the template on and rout it. The thing I'm worried about is if the router bit bites and blows out the wood. Also would it be better to do it with a hand held router or a router table both are just as easy for me? I find the table router method much easier to control. This also means, I think, less chance of error as you have more feel for how it is cutting, and can take it easy on the difficult parts. If you have sharp router bits, route in the right direction, don't take on too much thickness at a time, etc, I wouldn't expect many problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stereordinary Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I'm the other way around. I prefer to use a handheld router. I also do a lot of climb-cutting to avoid tear/blow out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foil1more Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 buy good router bits and go slow and you shouldn't have tearout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madawgony Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 buy good router bits and go slow and you shouldn't have tearout. +1 and get the rough cut as close to the body line as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyHetfield Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I just routed my second Ash body on my home made router table with crappy router. The first body I did, I sanded it right down to get rid of most of the excess bar a couple of mm, used a brand new 38mm Depth template cutter, and in various parts it ripped the hell out of it causing me to have to redesign certain areas. A few days ago I bout a new 12.7mm depth cutter, to route half of the body all the way round and then take of the template and do the rest. Didn't get even the slightest chip or tear out, and had left a fair bit on after the rough cutting too. So for me now I'd prefer to use a smaller depth cutter nibble away a bit and take my time. worked for me like a charm, I'd reccomend taking as much excess of first tho to be on the safe side and for the health of the cutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar_player Posted September 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 I just routed my second Ash body on my home made router table with crappy router. The first body I did, I sanded it right down to get rid of most of the excess bar a couple of mm, used a brand new 38mm Depth template cutter, and in various parts it ripped the hell out of it causing me to have to redesign certain areas. A few days ago I bout a new 12.7mm depth cutter, to route half of the body all the way round and then take of the template and do the rest. Didn't get even the slightest chip or tear out, and had left a fair bit on after the rough cutting too. So for me now I'd prefer to use a smaller depth cutter nibble away a bit and take my time. worked for me like a charm, I'd reccomend taking as much excess of first tho to be on the safe side and for the health of the cutter thanks everyone I've got good bits and was already going to remove most the wood so I this is how I was going to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 17, 2008 Report Share Posted September 17, 2008 i couldnt possibly do it with a router table. i dont see how you could tell how much your taking off at once. but if your cut is super close to the template, im sure it would be easier. i find a hh router to have superior controy. you can actually see exacty where your cutting, and how much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted September 22, 2008 Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 There are a couple of things you can do, msot od which have been covered already: bandsaw the shape a hair from the template climb cut with the router on the tearout-prone areas rout in little bits etc. But there are a couple more options: drum sander and microplane. Both are attachments for the drill press. The drum sander will take a bit longer and will eat up the sanding sleeves, but it'll work. IMHO, this is NOT the best option available, but kind of a last resort. The other option is microplane. Do a google search for the company. They make planing drums that work in the drill press. They have a template bearing as well. It really chews through the wood and doesn't tear out around the corners. Someone here turned me on to them, and I'm SOOOO glad I bought them. They're great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar_player Posted September 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2008 There are a couple of things you can do, msot od which have been covered already: bandsaw the shape a hair from the template climb cut with the router on the tearout-prone areas rout in little bits etc. But there are a couple more options: drum sander and microplane. Both are attachments for the drill press. The drum sander will take a bit longer and will eat up the sanding sleeves, but it'll work. IMHO, this is NOT the best option available, but kind of a last resort. The other option is microplane. Do a google search for the company. They make planing drums that work in the drill press. They have a template bearing as well. It really chews through the wood and doesn't tear out around the corners. Someone here turned me on to them, and I'm SOOOO glad I bought them. They're great. I'm trying to get away from drum/spindle sanders I just don't think it works too good. Those look great how smooth does it come out though? I have no problem doing some sanding but it just seems like it would come out really rough. I also looked at there rasps and I'm going to get one for doing necks and stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 The microplane things for the drill press work like a dream. The prep is just like if you were routing it - cut VERY close to the line. After that, the final shaping with the microplanes is like going through butter. AND... there's virtually no way you can blow out the curves. For smoothness - it's just as smooth as with the router. You'll need to finish sand it, but it's pretty smooth to the touch. I'd say it's just a hare rougher than what somes out of the thickness planer - which is pretty smooth itself. Seriously... you woulnd't be disappointed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted September 23, 2008 Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 I cut, then sand down close to the line (drum sander in a drill press in the past, these days a cheap oscillating drum sander) and then route off the final 1/16" (or less) with a router. Table works better than handheld simply because there's zero risk of tilting the router by mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar_player Posted September 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2008 The microplane things for the drill press work like a dream. The prep is just like if you were routing it - cut VERY close to the line. After that, the final shaping with the microplanes is like going through butter. AND... there's virtually no way you can blow out the curves. For smoothness - it's just as smooth as with the router. You'll need to finish sand it, but it's pretty smooth to the touch. I'd say it's just a hare rougher than what somes out of the thickness planer - which is pretty smooth itself. Seriously... you woulnd't be disappointed. Ok thanks I'm going to buy one of these for my next guitar there pretty cheap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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