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Exotic Tele Build


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wood filler will probably do just enough to firm it up so yeah - give it a go. normally i wouldnt recomment its use but for a small job like this it might be just fine - although you may have to redo it in a few years if the wood filler crumbles

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101_0617.jpg

As you can see also, the neck builder came through with a new neck. I'll be inlaying the J and doing a test fit before I put a finish on it this week. I'll snap some pics of the inlay process and finished result.

I´m really happy hearing that you received the replacement neck from the builder and that it hasn´t any problems. We can now see you new tele in all her glory with the new switch knob and inlay ! :D

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I found the epoxy for >$3.00. I'll be giving that a whirl soon. This week is a tornado of activity, so NOTHING is happening until next week. Bummer.

The nut for the new neck was sent taped to the heel instead of installed. This is his standard practice. What adhesive should I use to attach it? The slot is already cut, so all I need to do is glue it in.

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I found the epoxy for >$3.00. I'll be giving that a whirl soon. This week is a tornado of activity, so NOTHING is happening until next week. Bummer.

The nut for the new neck was sent taped to the heel instead of installed. This is his standard practice. What adhesive should I use to attach it? The slot is already cut, so all I need to do is glue it in.

standard yellow glue is fine for the nut.

Even though the nut is cut, you may want to check the slot depth for each string. If they're too high, your intonation will be way off in the first 3-4 frets.

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MY FIRST INLAY!!!!!!!!

101_0689.jpg

I did a few test routs before going for it on the real thing. Before doing those, I probably spent a half hour adjusting to the feel of the whole thing and how it cut through the wood. I got a router base for Craftsman's version of the Dremel. It worked beautifly, as you can see.

After the hole was all carved out, I thinned down some Tightbond just a touch with some water and smoothed it through the cavity. I then pressed the inlay into the cavity, covered it with wax paper, clamped some scrap MDF over it, and went off to Easter dinner.

When we came back, I set the router to just shy of flush - I used a business card to keep it a hair above the board - and shaved off what was sitting proud of the headstock face. That actually produced dust enough to fill in the small gaps. It was then sanded smooth. Currently, it's getting 2 coats of sanding sealer before it gets lacquered.

BTW: I DO actually learn from my mistakes. I tested the truss rod before I did anything, and it works just like it's supposed to.

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Sanding sealer's done. Now I'm trying a different kind of lacquer - brush on. MAN does that stuff get you high in a hurry! Potent stuff, dude! It's pretty thick, too. It doesn't flow too great. Maybe it's just a little chilly in my garage - about 50 Farenheit. I'll let y'all know how it works out. It looks like 6-8 coats will do it.

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Sanding sealer's done. Now I'm trying a different kind of lacquer - brush on. MAN does that stuff get you high in a hurry! Potent stuff, dude! It's pretty thick, too. It doesn't flow too great. Maybe it's just a little chilly in my garage - about 50 Farenheit. I'll let y'all know how it works out. It looks like 6-8 coats will do it.

Ever hear of a vent.....or fan,hahaha.....that kind of high will give you a headache.I had to paint in a tight area of a submarine, with marine paint one time .I came out red eyed and ready to fight.Bad headache later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I buffed out the neck today. I wet-sand leveled it with 400, then to 800, 1000, 1200, and 1500. I stopped there, basically to see how it would shine up when I hit it with the Maguires. The headstock shined up nicely, but not as deep as the body, which I took to 3000 grit. The rest of the neck got buffed with 5/0 steel wool. I wanted a more slick, satin feel on the neck. I think that highly buffed necks are a bit "sticky".

When I put it all back together, it took a while to get the action right. I adjusted the shims so many times my cordless screwdriver went dead. Granted, it wasn't on a full charge when I started, but still... My forearm is a little tender now from the twisting. Eventually, I got it adjusted pretty close, then tweaked the bridge height to the right action.

If I can get the strings stretched out enough today, I'll be able to play it in tomorrow morning's service. It's about time, too. I've been working on this since November!

I'll post pictures soon.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks! For a tele, it's very warm. Mahogany does that. Unfortunatley, it weighs a ton. Mahogany does that as well. The Bill Lawrence pups are simply amazing. Plenty of bite and a ton of twang. It's not as harsh a bite as a regular tele, but it's still pretty defined.

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Looks great!...nice work...whats your opinion on the Steinberger tuners?

They work great. They'd be a nice alternative to a locking nut. The main drawback is the way they get strung anf stretching strings. Because of that, and that I don't use whammy bars, I'll never get them again.

Stringing Steps

1. Feed the string through the post

2. Pull the string as tight as possible. I use pliars to get a better pull.

3. Tighten the clamping nut

4. Tune the string.

Unlike winding the string around a post, these can only tune the string so far. The head rises and descends into the bushing. It can only descent so far. The high E stretched past the tuner's ability to tighten. I had to completely release the tension and re-string the high E, pulling the string taut after it had stretched. I had to do this TWICE before the high E stopped stretching. I only had to do it once for the other strings. That was WAY too much work.

On the other side, the tuners have a 40:1 ratio. Most tuners are 14:1, 6:1, or the odd 18:1. That makes them extremely accurate, eliminating the need for fine-tuners on the bridge. They also eliminate the need for a locking nut.

For what they do, they're very good. Their drawbacks don't even out for me, though. If you don't mind the stringing & stretching P.I.A., they'd be a GREAT option.

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Just like you.... anything to help.

On the opposite end of the Steinberger world, the headless guitars & basses tune up a LOT easier than peg-wound guitars. The double-ball end strings slap into place like lightning. If the string was out of the packaging, you could change a string in about 20 seconds. They have plenty of room to stretch, too. Yea, the headless setup is much easier than these.

And thanks for the praise. If you really like it, vote for it in GOTM!!!!

Edited by avengers63
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